Getting REALLY deep scratches out of an acrylic tank?

[Anonymous]

I have some seriously scratched acrylic tanks. Imagine algae scraping the entire thing with a huge chunk of crushed coral wedged between the magnet :x , I got the lifeguard scratch removal kit, but after about an hour of sanding it doesn't look any different at all. Any other options? Or am I going to have to just elbow grease it to death?

 

[mountainbiker619]

I once tried that three part cream (can not remember the name of it) with a buffing wheel. It did a ok job, but not good enough for me and I sold the tank.

 

[Anonymous]

Do a search on micro mesh. Here is the link http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/findprod.c ... 1&sku=6456

Good luck.

Jim

 

[Robin Goodfellow]

hi.
MicroMesh is what I use to. Depends on the severity of the scratch, you may have to drain the tank and use powertool to help you out.

 

[Anonymous]

That looks like what came in the kit. It was labled 1500 through 12,000.

The tank is already dry, and honestly it just going to be a stock tank in the shop and will probably get scratched again so it doesn't have to be perfect. Just a little better. WHat kind of power tools and attatchements should I use?

 

[Robin Goodfellow]

hi.
Do a search on the DIY forum. I mentioned my tool over there.

Basically, I use random orbit sander with that works with the pre-cut MicroMesh with velcro backing. You can use hand drill with proper attachment disc too.

 

[criccio]

I know this isn't as readily available, but a mixture of Hydrogen and Oxygen will "flame polish" out surface scratches and any abrasions left by sand paper.
chris

 

[Robin Goodfellow]

hi.
Do not flame polish a flat surface if you intended to look thru it afterward. Flame polishing only work well for non-imaging surface, such as the edge of an acrylic panel.

 

[delbeek]

I believe 1200 micromesh is not rough enough to work on DEEP scratches. You need to go to 400 or so and then work your way all the way up to

The use of micromesh also depends on the thickness of the acrylic. Remember, you are not removing scratches with micromesh, you are removing acrylic. If the scratch is deep and the acrylic thin, you may end up with a severly weakened piece of acrylic.

JCD

 

[Anonymous]

The acrylic is pretty thick. And the 1500 micromesh did nothing but make my arm very sore. I'm going to go down to a lower grit and see what happens. If I screw them up they'll just become live rock tanks.

 

[Anonymous]

Am now using lower grit and can tell that I'm making progress. I'm going to be switching to an orbital snder next week. I'm assuming that I have to get rid of all the problem scratches befroe I move down to a higher grit? After that I'm just re polishing the surface correct?

 

[Robin Goodfellow]

hi.
'Yeah, basically you have to scratch the he11 out of the tank with a progressively finer sandpaper, until you use the finest one, and use the polishing liquid to make the tank clear and scratch free.

 

[LA-Lawman]

whooooaaaa, The all might J Charles delbeek responded to your post.....
that is cool.....

you are a god mann..... dont ever clean your monitor and use the post as a screen saver.....!! 8O 8)

on a real note: Dont they make a gel that goes in the scratch and then u buff out the gel when it hardens???? maybe i am thinking of something else..

 

[Robin Goodfellow]

hi.
It is only 6X more likely to see your posts than his, so I will use your post as my screen saver instead.

Any way, the thing that you are talking about sound like automotive polishing wax? AFAIK, not many of them can be used for the inside of tank...

 

[shalegac]

Buy a new tank :roll: