Phosphate & red smear algae problems
- Thread starter John Wardle
- Start date
It doesn't just appear, and it doesn't come from the livestock like nitrate does.
It is either coming in your source water, your salt, your food, or something else you add to the tank.
Check all of those sources.
Low quality flake foods often have a bit of phosphate in them.
It is either coming in your source water, your salt, your food, or something else you add to the tank.
Check all of those sources.
Low quality flake foods often have a bit of phosphate in them.
Glad to see your question and:
One thing I would like to point out is there may not be a direct correlation between phosphate and red cyano or smear algae. I say this because my 2 yr old pico reef has a red smear problem and has no detectable phosphates. I used to not have the algae problem, but I had a heat spike that killed off several tank inhabitants and from there on out even increased water changes won't remove the red slime. Of course phosphate is common algae fuel, but Im saying you may reduce or remove your PO3 measures and not see a decline in prolific red algae.
If I could find the direct link between ____?____ and smear algae I wouldn't have been battling it for 3 months in my system, Im still unclear as to its eradication and what makes it appear. I suppose it originates from ubiquitous airborne spores like many other aquatic algaes when it lands in a suitable environment. IMO, lack of tank circulation, feeding/bioloading etc all add up to a reduced oxygen presence which helps boost the red cyano.
Lastly, I want to recommend a product that will definately remove all the red cyano. Not permanently, you'll have to reapply at water change time, but when used it will definately kill all smear algae. Boyds Chemi-Clean from Boyd's enterprises. This stuff will kill your corals if you overdose, beware, but when used as directed I guarantee it will not let red smear algae exist in your tank.
Good luck
Brandon Mason
One thing I would like to point out is there may not be a direct correlation between phosphate and red cyano or smear algae. I say this because my 2 yr old pico reef has a red smear problem and has no detectable phosphates. I used to not have the algae problem, but I had a heat spike that killed off several tank inhabitants and from there on out even increased water changes won't remove the red slime. Of course phosphate is common algae fuel, but Im saying you may reduce or remove your PO3 measures and not see a decline in prolific red algae.
If I could find the direct link between ____?____ and smear algae I wouldn't have been battling it for 3 months in my system, Im still unclear as to its eradication and what makes it appear. I suppose it originates from ubiquitous airborne spores like many other aquatic algaes when it lands in a suitable environment. IMO, lack of tank circulation, feeding/bioloading etc all add up to a reduced oxygen presence which helps boost the red cyano.
Lastly, I want to recommend a product that will definately remove all the red cyano. Not permanently, you'll have to reapply at water change time, but when used it will definately kill all smear algae. Boyds Chemi-Clean from Boyd's enterprises. This stuff will kill your corals if you overdose, beware, but when used as directed I guarantee it will not let red smear algae exist in your tank.
Good luck
Brandon Mason
Hello Brandon...and Len if you are reading: I must protest about never getting the official welcome to RDO logo. 
Brandon, do you dose that cyano killer in your nano reefs? Why are you battling for three months with cyano if you know about this stuff? I don't know about putting anything that kills anything into my tank.
:idea: My thought on cyano is that it blooms when conditions are right and sticks around until it gets tired and goes away. People try reducing phosphate, cutting lighting, increasing lighting, increasing circulation, or any combo of those and other methods, but in many cases it seems to stick around.
I had the stuff growing on the nozzle of a powerhead, just loving the current and strathcing out into it....also on the glass, close to the lights, right where the return blasted it with strong current. Had it on the sand in the light and in the shade too.
It just went away on its own and was replaced by hair algae. Now I like hair algae. THANK HAIR ALGAE
I'm getting a Kole tang soon. Heard they eat cyano. Is that true?
Brandon, do you dose that cyano killer in your nano reefs? Why are you battling for three months with cyano if you know about this stuff? I don't know about putting anything that kills anything into my tank.
:idea: My thought on cyano is that it blooms when conditions are right and sticks around until it gets tired and goes away. People try reducing phosphate, cutting lighting, increasing lighting, increasing circulation, or any combo of those and other methods, but in many cases it seems to stick around.
I had the stuff growing on the nozzle of a powerhead, just loving the current and strathcing out into it....also on the glass, close to the lights, right where the return blasted it with strong current. Had it on the sand in the light and in the shade too.
It just went away on its own and was replaced by hair algae. Now I like hair algae. THANK HAIR ALGAE
I'm getting a Kole tang soon. Heard they eat cyano. Is that true?
Hey Manny, Len said he would hunt me down like a cold dog if I didn't use the logo so I darn sure do it when I remember too, the other times I just run and hope I get lucky
I don't think the tang will munch monerans, but we'll have to ask others with tang experience to see for sure. I am using the additive, but I say 'battling' because I never had to deal with the stuff and I was never a proponent of using non-natural means in a reef. But, I didnt want to scrap my setup so I agreed to try something synthetic to control my current imbalance while I hope increased water changes are enough to set things straight again eventually.
The dosage on the bottle is set for a minimum 10 gallon reef. Considering none of my tanks are above one gallon (see avatar) it was easy to overdose and kill the Mini75 reef you see on the left. After I backed down the dose, the reefbowl (on the right) is doing well and showing no signs of red slime, as long as I put in a few grains of Boyds with each water change. When I leave the dose out for test purposes, the red cyano returns in three days as usual. Evidently Boyd's is not a permanent control, but at least its buying me time while I take my reef to several public displays here in Lubbock.
I do not know if it will work on green cyano, but it won't hurt to try as long as you follow the dosing directions. Boyds is an oxidizer and it can burn coral tissue if overdosed but is not harful (IME) if you do not overdose even a little bit.
I don't think the tang will munch monerans, but we'll have to ask others with tang experience to see for sure. I am using the additive, but I say 'battling' because I never had to deal with the stuff and I was never a proponent of using non-natural means in a reef. But, I didnt want to scrap my setup so I agreed to try something synthetic to control my current imbalance while I hope increased water changes are enough to set things straight again eventually.
The dosage on the bottle is set for a minimum 10 gallon reef. Considering none of my tanks are above one gallon (see avatar) it was easy to overdose and kill the Mini75 reef you see on the left. After I backed down the dose, the reefbowl (on the right) is doing well and showing no signs of red slime, as long as I put in a few grains of Boyds with each water change. When I leave the dose out for test purposes, the red cyano returns in three days as usual. Evidently Boyd's is not a permanent control, but at least its buying me time while I take my reef to several public displays here in Lubbock.
I do not know if it will work on green cyano, but it won't hurt to try as long as you follow the dosing directions. Boyds is an oxidizer and it can burn coral tissue if overdosed but is not harful (IME) if you do not overdose even a little bit.
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