LFS says Ok to fill new tank without RO

[Osama]

I am in need to fill my new system with about 400g of water. Will first test for leaks with water directly from the faucet but then use RO water. LFS says it is OK to use the faucet water with carbon & phosphae removal for a week then the water will be OK. I know RO/DI water will be better BUT will his suggestion workout well . Future makeup water will be from my RO/DI system which will be very slow for a large quantity of water.

 

[MattM]

Carbon and phosphate media will take some stuff out of your tap water, but will have no effect on nitrates (from fertilizer run-off) or silicates (genarally from sand and rock breakdown).

So if you take this route expect massive diatom blooms and potentially other algaes (cyanobacteria, dinoflagelates, etc.) for 6-9 months before things stabilize.

FYI - you'll have some of these algaes using RO water as well, just not as much or for as long.

 

[reefann]

I would use RO/DI. Why start off on the wrong foot.
How many GPD is your RO unit?
JJ
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[Osama]

JJ:
I agreee wih the preferred method would be to use RO water but I wanted to hear if the LFS proposed method will work; just for my consideration. My RO/DI unit is for 100gpd but it does about 40gpd. I put all five new membranes 2months ago. but it is too slow for the rated capaccity.

 

[Mogo]

I filled my my plain tap water and I regretted it. Major league algae for a couple months. Using ro water would be a nice way to break in the ro unit also.

 

[Anonymous]

I hope you learn your lesson from Mogo, osama. Chicago has good water from Like MI, (but are you one of those people having a well?) but it is still not good for reef.

You need to check the line pressue for your RO, as well as rejection rate and TDS reading. After changing some of the prefilters and the membrane, you should be getting close to 80-100 GPD. Call the seller and see if they can help you on it. It is one of the reason I usually advice people to get the water filter from a good company that provide good after market support....

You can fill it with tap and make sure the plumbing is working the way you want to. Use the water for watering your garden, or making a skating ring if the temperature is cool enough. But make sure the water you use to add salt to is good water.

 

[Anonymous]

I would definately NOT use the tap. Like others have said, you'll just be getting off on the wrong foot IMHO.

Louey

 

[jandree22]

I would definately NOT use the tap. Like others have said, you'll just be getting off on the wrong foot IMHO.

Louey

word.... ESPECIALLY that you plan to buy one in the future anyways! I ended up spending like $275 on one, but I'll tell you what, I'm so glad I did. There's nothing like the peace of mind you get knowing only like 0-1 TDS is goin in your tank. For a 400 gallon system, it's gonna be too expensive to make mistakes. Preventative measures are ALWAYS cheaper than fixing mistakes later down the road.

Your LFS isn't necessarily incorrect, but RO is a MUCH safer route!

Good luck!
Joel

PS - For a 400gallon system, the money you'll spend on a good RO/DI is prolly gonna be like pocket change in comparison :wink:

 

[Lurshy]

Don't do it. JMHO

Your only asking for trouble, but don't worry, the LFS would love to sell you a bunch of chemicals to cure your algea problems should their idea not work out.

 

[Quigonsean]

Yeah don't do it. I am gritting my teeth as my tank fills right now. I only have a DI filter and am on well water and our county is known for extremely high silicate. But I live at home and my father said I'd generate 900gallons of waste water over his dead body he didn't care how much algea grew 900gallons waste for 100 gallons pure he said he 'd neuter me. So I'm praying like a man on death row as this thing fills on the other side of my room.

Sean

 

[Jolieve]

I started my tank with tap water... now I have an unending issue with hair algae.

The federal government requires the addition of phosphates to tap water to combat lead pipe used for plumbing lines in older homes. So weather your water is good or not, there ARE phosphates in it. Phosphates feed hair and other sorts of undesirable algae. Don't do it man. Don't spend the next six months trying to kill hair algae off. Fill it with RO/DI water. Be a happy person and learn from my mistake

 

[hsosa]

Do not use the tap water. Its a waste of time. Do it correctly the first time and you will not have problems in the future. RO water is the best to start with. or seawater if you can get it.

 

[Osama]

Ok Thanks to all. I knew I should not use tap water but I guess I needed to hear it very strongly from others and I did thanks.
I am going to see what I can do to improve on the performance of my Kent RO/DI unit. Something is not working right since I replaced my cartridges 2 months ago. My unit was working fine before producing about 80gpd so it is not the unit. It is either the cartridges I bought or I screwed up something somehow when I replaced the cartridges.

 

[Robf]

Osama... I'd check the flow restrictor. Perhaps it could use replacement. If you allowed for your membrane to dry out, there could be a problem there as well. As well, what's your line pressure?

In replacing your cartridges... is it possible that one did not seat properly... possibly leaving your membrane to deal with alot of impurities?

Hope you get the problem fixed... I strongly agree with everyone else. RO/DI water is more than insurance.

JMHO.

-R.

 

[Osama]

Rob; help me out some more here please. I never knew about the restrictors. Kent just told be they are on the orange line out of the membranes. What are they made of & could these get damaged. where can I get repalcements etc. Before I open these ends & get the system to leak all over I would appreciate some info on the restrictors. They are not visible so I did not know they existed.
My first filter container looks as expected brownish (light) as usual after 2 months of use. The second cartridge did not get any color change to it which is very unusual to me. I opened that cartridge & repositioned the gaskets yesterday. Opened the DI container & repositioned the cartrdge also. Flow from the 2 membranes into the DI is extremely slow. So more likely the probem is not in the DI itself. Could be the new membranes or the ristrictor? but why is the second filter not getting brownish??

 

[Mogo]

Also:
I had similar problem with my ro unit when I changed cartridges and membrane. As per instructions I rinsed the membrane and installed it. About a week later, I noticed the flow greatly reduced to a drip. After checking all possibilities I removed the membrane and re-rinsed it this time very thouroughly ie. under running water for a half hour. I reinstalled the cartridge and presto. Have not had a problem since. I believe membranes contain a protective resin or something for preservation.

So:
try rinsing your membrane very well first. HTH.

 

[Anonymous]

The build-in restrictor is a plastic insert that oftentimes is removable. It is pretty much going to last forever, so unless you got a wrong membrane for your RO unit, it should be fine (but you are not..)

 

[Osama]

Ok I will try next to remove & rinse the two membranes for a half hour or so.

 

[SunnyX]

Definatly go with RO/DI water. It will make a world of difference in your tank. Before RO/DI I was fighting algae daily.

 

[Robf]

The build-in restrictor is a plastic insert that oftentimes is removable. It is pretty much going to last forever, so unless you got a wrong membrane for your RO unit, it should be fine (but you are not..)

I agree. It should last forever. On my first RO unit, it was a small piece of plastic that fit into an elbow coming off of the membrane. It had a small hole in it, and a small ball that seated against the hole.

On my new 100gpd rodi, it is a longer piece with a long, very thin tube that goes through the piece. The thinner tube acts the same as a small hole.. to restrict flow.

However, my understanding is that there are different-sized restrictors that correspond with the different-sized membranes. If your new membranes were not rated the same as the old ones, you would require the appropriately-matched flow restrictor.

There is also a variable [adjustable] restrictor that lets you 'dial-in' your waste/product water ratio. You are aiming for 1:4; product to waste respectively.

Are you able to measure the amount of product and waste water that your unit can process in a minute? The ratio would really help us to determine if the problem is membrane-related.

Otherwise, I did not know about rinsing the membranes... rinse away! And please let us know if it helps in your situation.

Good luck!

-R.