Can LR become dead rock? Recharge?

[Anonymous]

I have read that in the past. I have used Turbo and superbuffer to get the levels at 10 dkh/ 430 CA. They never stayed. I am talking they would drop in days back down to low 300's.

But like Vitz had said maybe I tried to use too many different methods to balance/raise these levels.

The best thing I guess would be to continue doing allot of frequent water changes. Maybe I will switch salt to a salt that has the 3 levels more inline. (Sucks I got 2 more 200 gallon buckets of IO left).
I guess I can get a box of soemthing else to try.

Just wondering about future maintanance and keeping these parameters inline.
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Mercedes GL Class

 

[cdeakle]

My coraline is all white.

Because your calcium is low "CA - 360"

PH -8.0 8.2

Should be steady between 8.1 - 8.4 not 8.0 - 8.2

Temp 79-84 swing (working on that)

Definately need to work on that. Temp swings that bad can be very stressfull on your inhabitants.

 

[Fastmarc]

What kind of corals do you have?
I'm just curious as to what your calcium demand would be.

 

[Anonymous]

Quote:
My coraline is all white.

Because your calcium is low "CA - 360"

I can raise it to 450 with turbo but it wont stay there unless I dose more turbo.

Quote:
PH -8.0 8.2

Should be steady between 8.1 - 8.4 not 8.0 - 8.2

I guess raising the Alk will raise the PH?

Quote:
Temp 79-84 swing (working on that)

Getting a temp controller

Definately need to work on that. Temp swings that bad can be very stressfull on your inhabitants.

This is where I am getting frustrated again. What "Should" I do or get to get these levels in check and to maintain them consistently? Soem say too much turbo is no good, some say use kalk, I ran kalk for 2 weeks and the PH, Alk, CA didn't budge, the Alk actually came down a hair.
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Mercedes Benz W107 350SL

 

[Anonymous]

rob your pH range is fine-any value between 8.0-8.4 is perfectly acceptable

the smaller the swings, the better

i'd suggest monitoring your pH at nite, too-when it's at its lowest point, to see just how widely it swings

read those articles by randy-they should help you out a great deal

g'luck

p.s.-
you may be dealing w/the effects of more than one thing, i.e.- a combination of problems occuring at the same time

the temp swing issue isn't too good for sps's

 

[Fastmarc]

Because your calcium is low "CA - 360"

I think he corrected this to 260 ppm, which is even worse.

 

[Anonymous]

What about all the LPS that lost all of their color? The hammer, frogspawn, wesophelia have lost most of their color and have become transparent.
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Mercedes Benz S Class

 

[Fastmarc]

I agree with vitz. Give that article a good read and take it from there.

 

[cdeakle]

I have had pretty good results with turbo calcium. Brought my calcium from 260 to over 400. I have kalk on hand but just don't wanna take the plunge yet. If I can keep my calcium steady with turbo calcium then thats what I will do.

Your ph really should be at least 8.1. I have noticed my corals are not too happy when the ph gets a little low. If you keep your ph at the bottom range of acceptable levels then it will be much harder to stop the ph from dropping to unsafe levels and even harder to bring them back up.

You really should bring your ph up to at least 8.1. It would be better to keep your ph closer to 8.3 so that when your ph begins to fall you can use ph buffer to catch it in time and bring it back up. If you leave it closer to 8.0 which is already considered unacceptable by many then it will drop even lower before you bring it back up.

 

[Anonymous]

My CA in yhe tank is 360.

The freshly mixed IO at 1.024 is 260. SO every water change I do is lowering the CA back down.

What about all the LPS that lost all of their color? The hammer, frogspawn, wesophelia have lost most of their color and have become transparent.
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[Anonymous]

My CA in yhe tank is 360.

The freshly mixed IO at 1.024 is 260. SO every water change I do is lowering the CA back down.

why aren't you correcting that before you use the new water?


What about all the LPS that lost all of their color? The hammer, frogspawn, wesophelia have lost most of their color and have become transparent.

there could be more than one cause for that, or multiple causes acting simultaneously-you have to eliminate the variables that you can first, to make the 'guessing game' easier to win :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

I have had pretty good results with turbo calcium. Brought my calcium from 260 to over 400. I have kalk on hand but just don't wanna take the plunge yet. If I can keep my calcium steady with turbo calcium then thats what I will do.

Your ph really should be at least 8.1. I have noticed my corals are not too happy when the ph gets a little low. If you keep your ph at the bottom range of acceptable levels then it will be much harder to stop the ph from dropping to unsafe levels and even harder to bring them back up.

it's the alk levels that will determine the pH stability-a pH of 7.9 that stays 7.9 ALL THE TIME is better than one that swings from 8.2-8.4 every day and night, imo

You really should bring your ph up to at least 8.1. It would be better to keep your ph closer to 8.3 so that when your ph begins to fall you can use ph buffer to catch it in time and bring it back up. If you leave it closer to 8.0 which is already considered unacceptable by many then it will drop even lower before you bring it back up.

using a dropping pH to determine when you should boost your alk levels isn't a very wise thing to do, imo- if the alk levels are stable and correct, your pH shouldn't drop, period-it's the alk that should be used to correct pH issues, not the other way around :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

Some say that I shouldn't treat the new SW and only dose the tank. Should I dose B-Ionic ito the newly mixed IO then let it sit for a day before doing a WC?
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[Anonymous]

Some say that I shouldn't treat the new SW and only dose the tank. Should I dose B-Ionic ito the newly mixed IO then let it sit for a day before doing a WC?

if you only dose the tank, what happens is this:

all the levels change when you perform the wc, then AGAIN when you dose the tank (you drop the levels of everything w/the 'low value' new sw, then raise the levels up again) :wink:

if you correct the water 1st, the levels change ONCE (they rise back to proper level, or closer to it, and then the tank adjustment needs to be smaller)

which do you think is preferable? :wink:

always correct the source water (new sw) 1st :wink:

remember, it's all about consistency, and stability

hth

 

[Anonymous]

what a bunk batch of sea salt you got!

i just have one thing to add Rob.
i think the reason your calcium and alkalinty were swinging around like that was at least partly due to your low magnesium level.

i would make certain your salt is low in calcium (as in, use another test kit) and if it still showed low numbers i would be getting some new stuff.

 

[Anonymous]

I am using 2 Salifert CA test kits to measure this. (Bought another one to backup my findings).

I will try dosing the freshly mixed SW before adding it to the tank.

If I am still having problems with that then I will try a new salt. I have 2 and 1/2 more buckets of IO that I purchased a while ago.
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[Anonymous]

I am using 2 Salifert CA test kits to measure this. (Bought another one to backup my findings).

I will try dosing the freshly mixed SW before adding it to the tank.

If I am still having problems with that then I will try a new salt. I have 2 and 1/2 more buckets of IO that I purchased a while ago.

i use IO myself and have never had the problem oyu are experiencing. maybe the next bucket will be right.

 

[Anonymous]

So far the buckets were all in the same batch and this is the 2rd bucket like this.
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