Hyposalinity Quarrantine Tank

[Jas139]

Hi all

I have a problem with Ich affecting 5 fish in my 60 gallon tank and have been looking at threads for Hyposalinity treatment.

From what I have read, looks like I need to set up a Quarrantine Tank in which I can undertake the treatment.

My main concern in doing this is establishing how I deal with the fact that I would have to set up the separate tank from scratch and cant see how I would manage the Ammonia/ Nitrite levels which would rise during 3/ 4 week quarrantine period. Do you do this by water changes? or do you transfer filters from main tank ( I have 2 externals and 1 internal).

Any help would be appreciated

 

[cdeakle]

I have a problem with Ich affecting 5 fish in my 60 gallon tank and have been looking at threads for Hyposalinity treatment.

Good idea!

From what I have read, looks like I need to set up a Quarrantine Tank in which I can undertake the treatment.

Yup. Corals and inverts would die if subjected to this treatment.

My main concern in doing this is establishing how I deal with the fact that I would have to set up the separate tank from scratch

A basic 10 or 20 gallon glass cheapo tank will work just fine. You can also use a new 35 gallon rubbermaid as a last resort. Add a heater and a powerhead and your golden.

and cant see how I would manage the Ammonia/ Nitrite levels which would rise during 3/ 4 week quarrantine period. Do you do this by water changes?

Yes. I would normally do a daily waterchange. Make sure you have a refractometer before starting the treatment. Also, this process should probably take 4-6 weeks to be on the safe side.

 

[Anonymous]

Yes, water changes. Don't transfer filtration from the display, as you'll need to keep that going in situ (feed those bacteria). The q/t will need to be on the order of 6-8 weeks (far better to be safe than sorry).

Bio-Spira, from all the reports I'm reading, seems to be a great product for seeding with nitrifying bacteria. So, setting up the q/t with a couple of sponge filters and an appropriate amount of Bio-Spira may save you lots of extra w/c's and the fish the wear and tear of these waste spikes. I always advocate having enough mixed, aged, temperature matched water on hand for at least one 100% water change.

 

[Jas139]

Thanks both for the advice, will make sure I use a refractometer to measure the salinity. Should I also put some rock in the q/t to provide some cover for the fish? I have read somewhere that you should try and avoid rockwork in a q/t but I am worried that lack of cover might stress them further?

 

[Jas139]

One other question, should I leave the unaffected fish in the main display, I am worried that they might be affected but that I cant see the cysts. I do, however, run a UV and have just changed the tube, so hopefully the risk would be reduced if this was the case?

 

[cdeakle]

Should I also put some rock in the q/t to provide some cover for the fish? I have read somewhere that you should try and avoid rockwork in a q/t but I am worried that lack of cover might stress them further?

You read correctly. You should not use any LR in your qt. This would kill off any beneficial life on the rock and aslo provide a place for your fish to scratch and damage themselves. What I used that works really well pvc tubing. Get pieces with different lengths and sizes and scatter them along the bottom.

One other question, should I leave the unaffected fish in the main display, I am worried that they might be affected but that I cant see the cysts. I do, however, run a UV and have just changed the tube, so hopefully the risk would be reduced if this was the case?

NO! Just because you cant see any visual signs doesn't mean they don't have ich. Treating them all is the only way.

 

[Jas139]

Looks like I am going to busy trying to catch fish for the next 48 hours! think I will invest in one on those trapeze devices

Thanks for your help