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billyzbear

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Not really sure why. I have a 65w Light of America light above it. The macro algae that is in there doesn't seem to be growing as much. I did have to move it. It was down for a few hours and switched containers with only half the sand. The sand was 5" deep, now more like 2". I hooked it up to my new tank at 4 weeks and I'm at 7 weeks now. There is some LR, 15 snails and tons of "pods" in it. Flow is a little weak. I have it tee'd into my return pump with a 1/2" line into a small piece of pvc with holes drilled into it. There is roughly 25g of water going through it. Fug is around 20g, tanks is 90g and sump 20g. Tank is getting diatom outbreak and some hair which comes from fug above the tank. DIY skimmer is in the sump. I have to clean it once aday because there is so much foam and crap in it.
I run Black Diamond carbon and some Phosphate sponge but not much, need more. PH, Nitrate and nitrite are good. Bio load is low 2 chromies, 2 clowns and 20 crabs. There is over 150 pounds of LR and 75 of LS.
I was thinking on getting 40 little snails for the fug and 50 crabs for the tank along with a bi color or lawnmower benny.
Would useing a air pump to move water around the fug help?
Would you want LR in a QT tank?
Any help would be great.
 
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Anonymous

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The skimmer's bit is, believe it or not, good. Hopefully the skimmate is most skanky.

Now, what's missing from all this information are a few bits of more helpful information: what I'd like to know is, first, how long have the tank and 'fuge been set up? Second, what tests have you performed, with what kits, and what were the actual results? For instance, you've got a "phosphate sponge", but we have no idea whether or not it's fixing any phosphate, assuming the algae hasn't already fixed whatever may be there.

You see, the diatoms and hair algae are both issues of nutrient control, which is ultimately an issue of nutrient export. In a new tank, diatomaceous blooms are entirely normal, while in an established tank it's a sign of excess nutrient buildup (among other possibilities).

At this point, without any other information, and assuming that you're either using RO/DI, real seawater, or source water that's entirely nitrate and phosphorous-free, several large water changes would be in order.

I, personally, don't care for live rock in QT systems, because they most often double as hospital systems. That being the case, you don't want anything that cannot be well sterilized, nor that is so porous as live rock. My method has always been to use PVC pieces and fittings.
 

Len

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Hair algae in the fuge isn't a bad thing as hair algae is terrific habitat and nutrition for all sorts of microfauna. If the tank is relatively new (in its first year), it's normal to experience algae blooms of all types.

I agree with not adding rock to QT tank. I use big PVC pieces as well.
 
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Anonymous

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I agree about the hair algae, no worries - it will in all likelyhood subside over time.
About live rock in a QT tank, YES! I've been quarantining this way for quite some time now. For a few years I've had a QT tank set up with live rock, live sand and even a few mushroom corals. In fact it was really just a nano reef that doubled as a QT tank for my bigger system. I had great results with it. I'm not a fan of bare bones quarantine tanks, I think they add unecessary stress to many (not all) fish. When and if a fish needs to be medicated, a seperate hospital tank can be used. However many people do it the bare bones, PVC way and use the same tank for both quarantine and medicating pruposes. Instances where a fish needs meds though are few and far between. I haven't medicated a fish in 10 years.
If you need to medicate, a bare tank with PVC works just fine.
I think my way of doing things really comes into it's own when dealing with more delicate species that need every advantage to acclimate. With many fish, a bare, pvc laden tank is adequate.

Jim
 

billyzbear

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Thanks for the replies. I have had my older tank up for 7 months with the fug on it for 5 months. It's a 32g. The new 90g tank has been up for 7 weeks now. I put the fug on it 3 weeks ago. For the first 3 weeks I was changing 10g every 3 days, after that 10g a week. All water is from LFS. Soon I'm getting a RO/DI unit. Is Kent brand good salt?
Phos are about 1.0 ppm with Red Sea test kit.
Skimmate is pretty nasty looking. This is my first DIY skimmer and I think it's working good. It takes two paper towels to clean the collection cup. I'm useing a Quetone 4000 to power it through an enductor with only one right angle. How do you post a picture? I've never done it here. Plus all the water from the overflow goes through a plastic file cabnit with a mesh screen in the top drawer and poly filters in the next three.
I won't worry too much about the outbreak since it's a young tank. What phosphate remover is better, Kent or Sea Chem?.
Would you use an air pump for more water movement? I put a PH in there but it kept getting plugged.
Do you think adding more snails to fug help? Right now there is 15 of the little ones, Cerith?
How about adding a Benny?
 

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