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fishfanatic2

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Ok, Im really in a mess. I have a hair algae outbreak and I dont know whether or not to buy an RO unit to fix it. I thought it was going to get rid of it, but now Im hearing that it probably won't. My ornate leapord wrasse died of an unknown cause but everything else in the tank is fine. I dont know whether to continue with this tank, what to do with the algae, and Im at a dead end, literally, with fish (only fish int here are a watchamn and an ocellaris). HELP, any advice would be very much appreciated. :| :( :?
 

HClH2OFish

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Could we get some more info?
Tank size, lighting, test readings, what kind of filtration/flow in the tank, how often/how much do you feed, etc.

It'll help in figuring out what's going on in the tank that could be causing it.

Also, how old is the tank?
 

fishfanatic2

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29 gallons, 130 watts of PC lighting, the tank will eventually be a reef if it ever gets there. Its a year and three quarters old, prizm skimmer that works well, emperor power filter, a friend has the same setup on his 58 and it looks really good. The equipment has been working pretty well for me. I feed approx. once every other day, sometimes ill go two days in a row then not feed again for another 2 days. No real set schedule. There is a Condy anemone in there thats doing really well, some mushies are hanging in there.

Im leaning towards not getting another fish until i get the hair algae under control. Its also time to change the PC bulbs, I have to get around to ordering them. I was going to get an RO unit to benefit both of my tanks, then I heard that it probably wont do anything against the war on algae. BTW, after posting this thread, I was so pissed off that I went a yanked 30% of the ****, so i type this with 3 very sore fingers. :wink: Any advice aprereciated. :|
 

Reef Guy11

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Have you test your p04 phosphate also try running Phos X or RowaPhos also if Nitrates are high try Nitrate Sponge by Kent Marine. Load up on Carbon and Heavy Filtration that will help big time. :D


Darrell
 
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Anonymous

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fishfanatic2":3klzdhi6 said:
Ok, Im really in a mess. I have a hair algae outbreak and I dont know whether or not to buy an RO unit to fix it. I thought it was going to get rid of it, but now Im hearing that it probably won't. My ornate leapord wrasse died of an unknown cause but everything else in the tank is fine. I dont know whether to continue with this tank, what to do with the algae, and Im at a dead end, literally, with fish (only fish int here are a watchamn and an ocellaris). HELP, any advice would be very much appreciated. :| :( :?

Look I don't know too much about your system other than you have hair algae and a fish died. I am glad your other fish are still with you.

What I would do, is to establish plant life like macro algaes you do like. And protect them in a refugium even a simple in tank refugium. That will help starve the hair of nutrients and provide a better environment for you fish.
 
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Anonymous

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I think not adding anymore fish until you get this under control is a good idea, keep the bioload low for now.

I was going to get an RO unit to benefit both of my tanks, then I heard that it probably wont do anything against the war on algae.

So, since you don't use RO, can I assume you use tap water? Have you ever tested your tap water? ppm of disolved solids, nitrates, phosphates? I don't know if you can test fresh water with a saltwater kit, but that is something to look into. Reducing nutrients added to your tank through make up water below what you are adding now can only help.

Do you test for phosphate? If you have measurable phosphate in your tank we can work on helping you remove that and I bet your algae will start to subside.

Some few people can get away with tap water as it is good quality where they live. I know if I used straight tap water where I live, I would have a tank full of algae, it is 550 ppm, very very hard, and has other nasties in it.
 
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Anonymous

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Imo, an RO unit is a significant weapon in the battle against hair algae. If your water-change water is full of phosphate and other ickies, you will probably never get rid of hair algae, no matter what else you do. An RO unit won't get rid of hair algae overnight, but if there isn't excess nutrients in your tank, the hair algae will slowly disappear.

This hobby can be frustrating at times...we've all been there. If it was easy, everyone would be doing it! I hope you keep at it! :D
 

fishfanatic2

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Assumation is correct that I use tapwater. The water here makes good drinking water, pH of about 7.2-7.3 with a very low hardness. Thats all I have tested, I do have FW kits since I have a FW tank. I havent really tested anything else and I dont test for phosphate :oops: I guess I probly should.

So you think it would be a good idea to get the RO and find out the phosphate/nitrate lvl of my tapwater first? Thnx for everything everyone has said, keep it comin. :P
 

gabemerrill

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What about your cleaning and water change schedule? I was lax for a while this summer and the tank looked great, now I'm starting to pay for it. Nasties build up over time.

I got a 5 stage 75 GPD RO/DI unit from ebay about a year ago... I just checked and its Aqua Safe Systems ::this is not an advertisement:: it was ~ 200 with 5 filter changes.

I figure if I'm topping off evaporation might as well not add any extra organics or remnants of the declorination process. Check out pages 94-95 in The Conscientious Marine Aquarist
 

fishfanatic2

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No direct sunlight, nearest window is north-facing. I was a bit lax over the summer with w/c, I was barely ever at home. Is it possible that this had a slow negative effect on the fish and it was finally just too much?

For the hair algae, Ill probably test my tapwater for whatever kind of crap may be in there, and Ill see from there. Anything else I should do?TFEATIA :)
 
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Anonymous

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fishfanatic2:

Again, with or without nutrients in your tap water, establishing plant life you desire will solve the hair algae problem.
 
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Anonymous

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I agree with others that an RO unit will help. Last summer I revamped my system and moved everything from a 75 to a 130. I immediately had a huge hair algae outbreak, first ever in that system that had been running in various forms for several years.

Invested in the RO and within a couple large water changes, the hair algae was dying back. Now it's actually difficult for me to keep caulerpa growing, even though I heavily feed the system.
 
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Anonymous

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I don't know of one single person with a successful reef that uses tapwater, and I know a lot of reefers. I'm sure there may be a few, but you get my general drift.

Even if your tapwater has low dissolved solids, over time those materials are concentrated in your system as evaporation leaves them behind. Pure water evaporates from your system, its only natural to replace it with pure water.

If plants could be counted on to remove those materials that would be great. Unfortunately, they don't. Well, they do, but not to the degree you need. I have a 75 gallon sump full of chaetomorpha and other macros, and if I use tapwater or slack off on cleaning the skimmer bad things happen.
 

fishfanatic2

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Ok, I will then certainly get the RO unit.

beaslbob, I have heard of way too many blow out stories involving caulerpa that i dont think Ill try it. Plus I dont really have the space for a refuge.

Thnx everyone!!!! :D
 
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Anonymous

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fishfanatic2":1iqeukey said:
Ok, I will then certainly get the RO unit.

beaslbob, I have heard of way too many blow out stories involving caulerpa that i dont think Ill try it. Plus I dont really have the space for a refuge.

Thnx everyone!!!! :D

Understand. To me the choices are rather simple. You either have plant life you like or plant life you don't like. I hope you like the plant life that will result from your fish load. After all the ro/di unit will do nothing to remove the bioload from the livestock.

I hope you have the absolutely most awesome tank you can really enjoy.

Bob
 

HClH2OFish

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Beaslbob,

Ok, I've been reading tons of your posts on here recently and have kept my mouth shut, but this is just too much finally, and I feel the need to post in response. I'll try to make them as concise as possible.

To begin, let me first state that I in *NO WAY* am saying you're wrong about anything *in regards to your tank*. I agree that having macros growing in a refugium or the main tank will in fact help reduce some of the levels of nitrates.
The issue I have is your condescending tone to anyone that gives any kind of advice out that doesn't fit 'your scheme' of things.
The tone that comes across in postings does leave alot to be desired, but after reading many of your posts, your replies come across as condescending know-it-all-ism about methods that fly in the face of conventional, tested reef keeping methods.
Your arguments in the past regarding just using tap water and plant life because that is what the ocean has is simply flawed on the basis that a tank is *NOT* a natural system, and never will be.
As reefers, we try to get our tanks to emulate what the ocean does naturally.
The idea that tap water is the same as what flows to the ocean is flawed due to the fact that tap water is *treated* at water treatment plants to make it potable. Lots of stuff added to kill bad little germs, and other reasons. Rivers flowing to the ocean don't go through a large treatment plant before dumping into the ocean.
I take umbrage to the fact that with *every* response to a question posted about someones tank, your answer is always the same "Get lots of plant life going"
Sorry, but if other parameters aren't kept in check, no amount of plant life is going to magically fix their tank and all will be well, all will be well, and all manner of this will be well.
Your posts come across with the same tone as someone pushing an EcoAqualizer on someone - "It will stabilize your water, your corals will flourish, grow and go to Harvard; just add this and never add anything else to your tank"
Sorry, no matter *what* your experiences are, this is simply *not* true.
A reef tank (any tank for that matter) is a CLOSED SYSTEM. The ocean is not.
For a reef tank, how is plant life going to ensure that Ca levels are maintained when the corals use it up? What about other trace elements?
Not all tap water has these, which is why we have test kits and additives.
What about kalk reactors, skimmers, different methods of filtration?
Plant life simply *cannot* take the place of all of these. I suppose if I have a 180gal tank and a 500 gal refugium full of plant life than *maybe* the system you push would work.
I am truly glad that your tank is successful with this method, but pushing your methods as the final solution for someones problems does *nothing* to help them out.
There are tried and true methods to deal with maintaining a reef tank; yours simply is not one of them.
Does this mean you are wrong? Nope..not at all and not saying that...I'm saying your method is *UNPROVEN* We have nothing to go by other than your word on your experiences. BTW, your experiences also mean very little when you realize the fact that of your umpteen years with tanks, you only have 1 YEAR with a reef. Given the dynamics of a reef tank, that wouldn't even be considered a mature reef tank IMHO.
Now if you want to do some kind of study on your tank and post the valid results alongside a similar tank that *doesn't* use your methods that's all well and good......but it doesn't take away from the fact that your methodology is not one that should be pushed to answer every single question.
The biggest thing that irks me with your posts is the contradicting other answers....He has algae problems...an option is an RO/DI unit (that is a proven method to work) Your answers after the fact come across as 'You don't need all that $$ stuff...just get plants and all will be fine'
You seem to be saying that nobody else knows what they're doing and are all idiots because they don't utilize your system.

Gah...I'm done.
And apologies all for the long post!
 

fishfanatic2

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HCl, couldnt have said it better. That was exactly how I was feeling. Thank you for making me not type that all. :lol: :wink:
 

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