Any way to keep corals alive in a bucket for a few weeks?

[Anonymous]

What am I feeding the algae?

I understand waiting but this had been a year so far with the algae.

Just hard to look at the tank with only a few corals not growing.

Your bioload is feeding the algae.

Also you just changed (or eliminated) your DSB. That may have reduced the nitrogen processing capability.

So the plant life (hair algaes) have stepped up to consume those nutrients.

So hopefully desireable plant life like corraline algae will start spreading and consuming the nutrients. And starve out the uglies.

But that will take time.

 

[Anonymous]

So many people have had this problem, and many dread the idea of starting over again just to go back to square one and encounter the same problem from the beginning. The usual recommendations are:

-decrease feeding of tank
-weeding
-water changes
-refugium with macroalgae, pruned regularly
-increased skimming
-use RO/DI water ONLY (No tap water)

Having too many fish in the tank can increase your algal growth as well. You can either get rid of some fish, or increase the water capacity of your tank with a bigger sump/fuge.

Just my .02

HD

 

[Anonymous]

I have 3 fish (2 false percs and a 6-line wrasse)

I feed 1/2 cube frozen mysis every other day

been doing weekly water changes for the past 3 months (before that monthly)

I use RO/DI/DI @ 0 TDS

No refugium unless I hire an electrician to replace my electrical panel and run a new circuit. Probably about $1500.
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[Anonymous]

I don't understand why you would have to spend $1500 for the electrician. If I understand correctly you are already running a sump. Just seems like something could be setup with the overflow to the sump.

But be that as it may. If you still have the 46 bowfront up and running. You could try changing some water between the two each week or so. That would let bowfront refugium work on the water from this tank.

Just some ideas.

Bob

 

[Anonymous]

Give your frozen mysis a nitrate test in a little water, and see if there's additional nutrient entering your system.

A refugium need not cost you another circuit, you can do it with low-watt bulbs.

IMO, nearly all tanks go through an irritating period of algae problems, but as time goes by with patience and proper care, it becomes more manageable, and subsides.

I definitely feel your pain! I've been there through bryopsis, diatoms, cyanobacteria, VALONIA (damn stuff, "what are those neat green marble-looking things? :roll.

Good luck!

 

[Fatal Morgana]

You can have a nice looking tank without refugium.

However, 1/2 cube of mysis is about a cup of hair algae ever other day. If you don't remove it since you started your feeding regiment, I can imagine how much algae is in your tank even with zero nitrate/nitrite/am. No amount of water change can help you since the nutrient is being taken out of the water immediate by the algea... like someone making 4 grand every other week, and spend it all in the first day of the payday, or convert them into 12 month CD. Banking account balance is less than $100 at the end of every day.

Again, get working and undo all the "savings" that you put in the 12 month "CDs" that you have.

 

[Anonymous]

The current circuit has the following on it. It is a 15 Amp circuit.
9 halogen track-lights (on a track)
TV
Stereo
DVD player
CD player
Cable box
X-Box or PS-2
Plus the following tank stuff
250W HQI PFO MH
Icecap 660 w/ 2 95W VHO's
mag9
blueline 40HD
sedra 3500 (Skimmer)
Won 300W heater
6 inch clip on fan
2 - 3 in icecap fans
2 maxijet 1200's
1 seio 860 pump
maxi 400 (kalk reactor)
Litermeter III dosing pump
100W heater (salt mixing)

I have popped the breaked numerous time when everything is on which means there is not much room if any left on that circuit.

The $1500 is to change out the electrical panel (They dont make breakers for it anymore) and to run the circuit (I Live in a condo and have to hire a licensed electrician).

The 46 is a FW Planted tank now on the opossite side of the condo.
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recessions

 

[Anonymous]

Fatal,

I don't understand. The fish have to eat. 1/2 a cube of mysis is too much? I always fed that much.
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[Anonymous]

Rob

understand completely.

Perhaps the best thing to do is just let things run for awhile.

That said, if it were me I would put macros or true marine plants in the display. And culture some in another container also. That way you would have a nice planted FW on one side fo the condo and a reef with plant like plants on the other side. But that is just what I would do. Halimeda would look nice for instance.

Bob

 

[Ben1]

I feed my tank a cube of frozen mysis everyday, the anemone every couple of days with a big silverside and a 2 x 3 sheet of nori every other day for the tang.

You can feed as much as you want as long as you export the same amount. In the earlier years of reefkeeping a lot of people never feed their fish to keep nutrients low and maintance easier. Although this works you need to have a very low amount of fish so they dont deplete the natural food souces in the tank. I don't believe starving the fish is even close to the way to go, and in my mind several small feedings each day would be the ideal.

Have you already tried doing series of large water changes every few days untill you see the algae starving back? If its that bad maybe even 50% using your RO/DI/DI every three days untill you notice the algea disappearing. Then go to 30-40% once a week untill things stabalize, then you can switch to a normal water change method.

 

[Anonymous]

I have done a few large WC's in the past. When I did a complete LR removal and scrubbing I changed 50%. and continued with 15 gallon WC's every other week for a while. Ive been doing weekly WC's for a while now and things are the same.

I'll see if it starts to die back.
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[Fatal Morgana]

Fatal,
I don't understand. The fish have to eat. ...

I just want to show you where all your hair algea come from. Your feeding routine is fine, but you just need to be aware that what goes in, need to come up one way or the other. I am surprised that the skimmer was not able to skim out the nutrient... I am sure you keep it in top-notch performance, right?

If the water parameter is fine (near zero on ANNP), don't broke your back on the water change. There is not much nutrient in the water (like a checking account). The nutrient reservior is the algea itself, and it is better to attach them directly, e.g., manual removal.

 

[Anonymous]

I had a different skimmer (MyReef MR-1) in the system for over a year. After numerous attempts are getting that skimmer working (never) properly I gave up on it and bought a new Euroreef ES5-3. The Euroreef pulls out allot of skimmate. Especially now that its running wet. I think the possible problem with the LR loading up is the MR-1 not removing enough over a year or so.

I clean the Euroreef every month and the collection cup every 3-4 days.
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[Fatal Morgana]

Sound reaonable. Most of the algea that you have right now are whatever you put in during that period, and now you just need to undo it by pulling the ulgy algea out. Again, don't sweat over water change in your case, unless you see the water parameters getting off path, or the skimmer working unusually hard.

 

[Fastmarc]

Disolve some of that frozen mysis and check for phosphates as well.

 

[Anonymous]

Yup, yup.

 

[Anonymous]

Could the constant production of detritus be the reason why the coraline does not grow on the LR adn only on the glass?
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Mercedes T80

 

[Fatal Morgana]

Could be a possibility, but more likely, the combination of strong MH and medium amount of circulation make your rock bare due to the the preference to mild level of light, and stronger circulation. Just a guess.

 

[Anonymous]

~3000 GPH in the tank is not strong circulation ?
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[Anonymous]

Congrats on your squat!