Fighting cyano and diatoms

[sregnar35]

My tank has started going downhill in the past few months with patches of cyano(in high current areas BTW) and diatoms in my dsb. So I started getting together some test kits. Here's what I get

Ammonia - 0
Nitrites - 0
Nitrates - 0
Phosphate - 0 to .1ppm
Silica - 1ppm

I've been buying RO water from a machine at my local grocery store, it's supposed to be RO/DI with ultraviolet filtering too I think. So I tested that water as is and it's got 1ppm Silica too. I don't know what acceptable levels of silica are, I'm going to assume 1ppm from supposed RO water is no good. If so I'll go to another store and test their water. But the cyano has got me going? I just ordered 4 new PC bulbs for my 260W setup, the bulbs are approx 1 year old( I bought used). Could it be from the lights losing their spectrum? Could it be from the diatom growth some how? My protein skimmer is pumping out good goop every day or 2, usually a cup of dark green foamy water. And I don't think I'm overstocked. I've been adding cleanup crew members as often as possible, but they can't eat all of the diatoms, let alone the cyano. So is the 1ppm silica too high, and can I expect less cyano if I replace older bulbs? Sorry for rambling......thank you all though.

 

[Len]

Hi,

This is a great article on Silica in reefs.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/ ... eature.htm

1ppm for RO water does look too high. Is the diatom growth mostly on the glass, or all over? I have always had a lot of diatoms grow on the glass no matter what I tried. I just got used to using my magnet every other day to clean the glass.

As for the cyano, it's probably the lights. When lights get old, their spectrum shifts and often times cyano is a result. In fact, I know when to change my actinics when cyano starts to crop up. After the swap, the cyano disappears within a week's time. I'm not absolutely sure what the reasoning is, but hey, it works

 

[sregnar35]

I've read that article, it really helped, my diatoms are actually concentrated in my sand bed. It starts out as tan colred spots of sand, then brown clumps, and then it will start to get covered in cyano, it's a bit of a mess, and I'm really hoping its the lights. Based on my water tests, I figure it's got to be the lights or maybe a alkalinity flux, I've been dosing kalk and not measuring for alk or calcium.

 

[Len]

When your new lights come in, please let us know if it improves the condition. I know it certainly works for my cyano problems. :crosses finger for sregnar:

 

[sregnar35]

Thanks again, I really hope that's the problem. I've read a lot of articles, and the symptoms in my tank go hand in hand with poor lighting. I'll let you know when they come in.

 

[Anonymous]

I have also heard that diatoms (in new tanks) feed off the initially high phosphates. That is the reason for the brown algaes during the first few weeks. Then the greens show up as phosphates are reduced and nitrAtes start showing up.

Have also heard cyano feed off of phosphates also.

So I think the phosphates can be the problem.

Of course I get phosphates down with plant life. Which also gets the ammonia and nitrAtes down also.

Bob

 

[sregnar35]

I tested for phosphates, and they were 0 as well as nitrates and ammonia, and my tank isn't new either, it's been running since last november. I'm not saying it's super established, but not considered newly cycled either. That's why the algae has me baffled.

 

[Anonymous]

You just may have a delayed bloom. Which actually could mean you have done an excellent job of limiting the input of phosphates and other nutrients from such things as you input water. And have been exporting as well.

But then over time the nutrients can escape those measures especially with livestock.

So now you have plant life to consume those nutrients.

that is the reason I use plant life right from the start.

Bob

 

[Len]

I believe it's a lighting issue. I'd wait until you change the lights before doing any other changes.

I've tried both algae-scrubbing filtration systems and "Dutch" filtration (macroalgae in the main display) in years past. None of these systems worked as well as variants of the "Berlin" methodology. In fact, stony corals wouldn't thrive in any of the algae-based systems ... something others, including public aquariums, have validated through their similiar experiences.

 

[sregnar35]

I don't currently have any plants planted in my tank, and I don't have a sump or refugium, nor do I have any plans of installing. I'm hoping that once the new lights go on this will balance out. I'm also going to start testing my alk and calcium, to ensure of their levels. My tank is based on the berlin method I've read so much about. 75 gallon, 3 to 4 inch dsb, 3 powerheads and a protein skimmer. I do also occasionally run a carbon bag in a H.O.B. filter, but it doesn't ever seem to do anything. I did it as soon as my current algae started increasing, and it hasn't done a thing.

 

[Anonymous]

I don't currently have any plants planted in my tank, and I don't have a sump or refugium, nor do I have any plans of installing. I'm hoping that once the new lights go on this will balance out. I'm also going to start testing my alk and calcium, to ensure of their levels. My tank is based on the berlin method I've read so much about. 75 gallon, 3 to 4 inch dsb, 3 powerheads and a protein skimmer. I do also occasionally run a carbon bag in a H.O.B. filter, but it doesn't ever seem to do anything. I did it as soon as my current algae started increasing, and it hasn't done a thing.

Well hopefully corraline algae will spread and the ugly algae will subside.

After all that is plant life also.

 

[sregnar35]

That is true, I thought you were referencing planted macro algae like caluerpa or something. I thought about it, but I heard there is a great chance that either my tangs would eat it all, or it would take hold and swarm the tank. Two very different outcomes, neither very promising. I do have great coralline algae growth throughout my tank, BTW.

 

[Anonymous]

Good maybe things will just settle down in awhile.


I have an in tank refug I like but that is just my system.

And my tang is always picking at my macros and is nice fat and happy. And the macros are protected and controlled behind the partition. So it kinda solves both your concerns.

Bob

 

[Anonymous]

I would keep caulerpa out of the main display at all costs. I have it infiltrated among the sps corals in my tank, and every week I have to change about 20 gallons of water because syphoning is the only way to get it off the rocks. The species I have are too fragile to just pull off. Actually, I wouldn't allow caulerpa anywhere in the system, because it gets around. Chaetomorpha in the sump is great though, no problem.

Caulerpa emits enough noxious chemical to damage some delicate sps where it contacts them directly also. The couple of tang species I have had in the tank do nothing significant to prune it.

 

[Tackett]

well in that case I just uprooted a big string of fernish caulerpa thats been growing for about 3 months (dont know the species.) and pitched it in the garbage, wasnt quite sure if its a good idea but this makes me feel a whole lot better.