activated carbon

[hillbilly]

A lot has to do with the quality of the carbon to start with. Some brands are just crap, some are really good. This is based on my own experence. I've seen carbon of such poor quality that it started to break down after couple of hours of being under pressure in a Nu-Clear canister. (I also keep freshwater). Some would not remove yellow water under any conditions!

 

[Tackett]

I agree with you hillbilly, the cheapo carbons seem to loose their effectivness alot faster.

 

[Anonymous]

....

Bob, a few insidental reports of someones CA going up after adding calcium carbonate to a flow through area on their tanks doesn't discount years of scientific proof. If this did happen everyone who has a sandbed in their tanks would be seeing a high CA level.

I am sure the readers have already figured this out. Obviously, there is a difference between a no-flow anaerobic small grained sand bed and a high flow aerobic calcium carbonate based gravel like crushed corals or crushed oyster shells. With the later well proven to add caclium to saltwater tanks through years of UGF operation. All the other poster and I did was move the UGF to a filter box where the media could be changed easily.

 

[GSchiemer]

....

Bob, a few insidental reports of someones CA going up after adding calcium carbonate to a flow through area on their tanks doesn't discount years of scientific proof. If this did happen everyone who has a sandbed in their tanks would be seeing a high CA level.

I am sure the readers have already figured this out. Obviously, there is a difference between a no-flow anaerobic small grained sand bed and a high flow aerobic calcium carbonate based gravel like crushed corals or crushed oyster shells. With the later well proven to add caclium to saltwater tanks through years of UGF operation. All the other poster and I did was move the UGF to a filter box where the media could be changed easily.

I have to take Ben's side here. At the normal and proper pH levels in a marine aquarium, calcareous substances will NOT dissolve, ESPECIALLY in "high-flow aerobic" areas. This is science, not speculation. Your comment about this being "well proven" is nonsense.

Back in the days of the UGF, very few aquarists added supplements to boost alkalinity. I don't doubt that the water became acidic and some dissolution of the substrate occurred. This is certainly not something to promote or encourage today, and not a viable method of replenishing calcium and alkalinity in ANY marine aquarium.

Greg

 

[Anonymous]

At the normal and proper pH levels in a marine aquarium, calcareous substances will NOT dissolve, ESPECIALLY in "high-flow aerobic" areas. This is science, not speculation. Your comment about this being "well proven" is nonsense.

Back in the days of the UGF, very few aquarists added supplements to boost alkalinity. I don't doubt that the water became acidic and some dissolution of the substrate occurred. This is certainly not something to promote or encourage today, and not a viable method of replenishing calcium and alkalinity in ANY marine aquarium.
Greg

Well said.


Jim

 

[Tackett]

At the normal and proper pH levels in a marine aquarium, calcareous substances will NOT dissolve, ESPECIALLY in "high-flow aerobic" areas.

This is exactly what I thought acid was supposed to accomplish (i.e the breakdown of hydrogen bonds.), and, to my knowledge, oceans are alkaline... :wink:

 

[Tackett]

although the shells might work if you were able to acidify the water around the shells, and then get it back to safe levels before it got to the tank. Then you would have a rather neat little invention called a calcium reactor. should patent that. :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

A lot has to do with the quality of the carbon to start with.

You are absolutely correct! I used Black Diamond exclusively and this would have a MAJOR influence on anything I did. I'm just one person though (and broke). If several hobbiest experimented with GAC of differend brands we could come up with more evidence even if I'm totally wrong.

 

[Anonymous]

although the shells might work if you were able to acidify the water around the shells, and then get it back to safe levels before it got to the tank. Then you would have a rather neat little invention called a calcium reactor. should patent that. :wink:

I disagree. If you acidify Oyster Shells you're going to have a huge problem!!!! Oysters are outstanding biologic filtration units for removing bad elements from estuaries and bays. Guess where this "crap" goes?? hint - it's not the edible portion...

Chickens can handle this "crap" because of their liver. I certainly wouldn't dissolve it in my reef tank. Were talking MASSIVE amounts of Phosphate from various proteins. It's crazy to use it as a calcium source. Why, you'd end up with a tank that looks like Beaslbob's!!!! Yuck

 

[DKKA]

That's pretty much what the problem is.

Nobody has time to "piddle around" and yet when someone does the results are dismissed as insignificant. Why would anyone bother? :roll:

Guy,

FWIW, as a piddler-wanna-be I always appreciate the efforts of those who do what I wish I had time to do.

After going years without using carbon at all, I just started running small amounts of it 24/7 and changing it often. Hmmm...

The carbon we use to remove chlorine before it gets to our RO units it supposed to last 6 months. Somewhere, I remember a ro manufacturer saying it would last a year if not for bacteria blocking the pores. Seems feasible that the bacterial soup in our tanks could clog those pores very quickly.

Dan

 

[supergiantrobot]

I have seen some conflicting posts in this thread about the placement of carbon.

Some people drop it in a bag in the sump; others advocate "active" use, which seems to mean forcing water through the carbon.

1/ First, which technique is the proper way?

2/ In the case of "active" use, how does the carbon have to be applied? For example, should the carbon be placed so as to force water to flow through it? What are the techniques to do this? Dripping? Canisters? Some other option?

Why do high-quality GACs advocate changing once per month if the GACs lose effectiveness much sooner?

 

[Anonymous]

I've experimented with both as far as the yellow tint Caulerpa produces.

Placing it in a bag in the sump is almost useless and placing it where a lot of water is forced through it seems to work great. Results may vary on other substances but I doubt it.

 

[dgasmd]

So, what is a good rule of thumb to choose the volume or weight of cabon to be used in a system of X gallons?

 

[Anonymous]

One cupful per 100 gallons is a good start, methinks.

 

[supergiantrobot]

I've experimented with both as far as the yellow tint Caulerpa produces.

Placing it in a bag in the sump is almost useless and placing it where a lot of water is forced through it seems to work great. Results may vary on other substances but I doubt it.

So, do people put carbon in the overflow? Or, can one literally put it into a section of PVC and have the return, say, pump water thru the section?

 

[Anonymous]

I've experimented with both as far as the yellow tint Caulerpa produces.

Placing it in a bag in the sump is almost useless and placing it where a lot of water is forced through it seems to work great. Results may vary on other substances but I doubt it.

So, do people put carbon in the overflow? Or, can one literally put it into a section of PVC and have the return, say, pump water thru the section?

It'd be hard to do that and change it easily. I put mine in a mesh net and zip tie it to the outflow of my skimmer. It's easy, doesn't require an extra powerhead or canister filter, and since the skimmer water is cleaner it's not gunking up the carbon so much with detritus. Oh yeah, the mesh bag also catches all the micro bubbles from the skimmer, so two birds with one stone.

 

[Anonymous]

I don't run carbon very often but when I do I use a Magnum350.