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Howell, NJ
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hey guys im just looking out for ya'll who use RODI units...

check em, check each and every filter.... i noticed my water was coming out extremely slow, so i took out the good old tds meter and checked the water in the tub it came up at 17...

my 1st filter was horrible
2nd filter was in ok condition
3rd filter was in ok condition

membrane is still really really clean :scratch:

and the di beads are still green.....

just looking out for the community.... :grouphug:..
 

fritz

OG of this here reef game
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Marine Park
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Thanks Tone, always good advice. I think our friends at Buckeye once posted something along the lines of: (paraphrased)

"Think of each filter as the protection for the next, more expensive filter. The sediment protect the carbon from getting all clogged and full, the carbon protects the RO and the RO protects the DI. If anyone one of these becomes clogged and full the next filter down the line will have to do double duty and quickly exhaust itself."


Again, that wasn't there exact quote but it was more or less the point. As you mentioned Tony it's also good to check after each filter if possible so you know if only one needs to be changed or all. I change my sediment filters when they look dirty, DI when it changes color and everything else every 6 months if not sooner.
 
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Ya'll may have seen this before:

A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the useable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. The Matrikx+1 (“Chlorine Guzzler”) for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the tds (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called prefilters) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see its still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water (aka “permeate”), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependant upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm to 3 ppm, 5 ppm, and higher, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker then would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal!

Russ
 
S

steveo32

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Thanks Tony thats a great reminder. I'll have to check the unit tonight after work.
 
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How exaclty do you check the water from the individual chambers? And when you change filter and membranes do you change them all at the same time?

No need to check the TDS after each housing/stage - just the feed water (tap water), the permeate (purified water coming out of the RO), and after the DI.

The only one that might be a little inconvenient is the permeate reading. Buckeye premium systems include a "DI Bypass Valve" that makes this easy.

Russ
 

Davidl919

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Water PUMps and Projects

My rodi stopped last week. 2 month old 5 stage. When we first tested tap water tds it was in the 60's So i expected the full 6 months out of it. Now Here is the funny thing about certain area's in the 5 boros. Our KIDs LovE To OPeN PUmPS In ThE SUmmER caUSiNG our tap to go up to and over 1000. So keep this in mind if you live in or near the city.
We have to deal with this and the fact that manhattan and other boro's are going through a series of major reworks on the water system.
 

House of Laughter

Super Moderator
Staff member
Vendor
Location
Ossining, NY
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The DI unit is the one horizontal laying on top. Right?

Taad,

No the DI is usually the last of the vertical housings - the one laying down is th TFC membrane (RO)

The RO bypass is the next best addition (or standard equip for some units) and then there is the auto shut off and pressure guages - alse great to have.

As always Russ, great to keep this group in check and helping out.

House
 
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taat - in well configured systems the DI is the last thing the water travels through, and it is a vertical housing. There are some poorly configured systems out there that do have the DI stage horizontal above the RO membrane. This configuration is to be avoided.

If your system was built like that, at a minimum unclip the DI stage and place it vertically, with bottom up flow.
 
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