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Anonymous

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Tank is too small for a tang

IO sucks compared to Oceanic IME. too low of ca and mag.

New RO/DI/DI filters

The outbreak started when I chaged the MH bulb. The bulb was about 10 months old.

I do not does phyto. The only food the tanks gets was a 1/2 cube frozen mysis every 2-3 days.

Bakpak is on the nano. I have a Euroreef ES5-3 on my 58. Maybe I should add an additional skimmer
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coralfarmin

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the euro ought to do it..but it'd still be nice to have a surface skimming counter current ..i'd just add a 5$ hang on filter from walmart and put in a bag of phosphate free carbon spuraticly if you want to use carbon
what are your tank spec's now they showed you dose phyto & had a bak pack 2 I thought
the best thing to keep a tank clean imo is a tang or mexican turbos...once i had a out break of bubble alge in a 180 i had and thought I'd never get rid of it till I added a huge naso then it never came back, this tang and yellow tangs have a huge appetite
but if your tank is small, so do the mexican turbos
 

coralfarmin

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btw according to Anthony Calfo's book it is a myth that spectrum cause's alge blooms..but nutrients instead..ie the reason greenhouses work
 
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You were reading my old 46 gallon tank specs. The tank is the 58. No room to habg anything on the back. I have allot of plumbing o nthe back of the tnak for my closed loop.

Detritus settles on the bottom of the tank.
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ChrisRD

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Rob_Reef_Keeper":1o7jgwwq said:
How does one keep a Fish Only tank clean and running? I see tanks with NO LR and there is no algae.

IMO it's easier to keep an FO tank algae free (unless you have fish that like to eat all the clean-up critters. ;) ). Generally you're dealing with much less light intensity. Light + nutrients = algae, so the more light you have, the lower you need to keep nutrients in order to avoid problems IME.

I think you need something to eat the algae, but I don't agree with the idea of loading a bunch of critters in there to solve the problem. You'll just end-up with a bunch of starving animals after the algae it gone. IME a reasonable clean-up crew + good husbandry will win out over time.

IMO managing problem algaes is a balance of nutrient control and grazing. You have a source of nutrients (seems like the rock itself at this point) and strong lighting with no grazers, so it's no surprise you have an algae problem IMO.
 
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Perhaps if you cut your light duration in say half for 3-4 days, your snails can catch up with the algae production and the sump DSB ( if any) and corraline will consume a greater portion of the nutrients. Slightly lower lighting should not affect your corals (except for slightly slower growth during that time). That may be your only option short of adding plant life.

I hope you get a tank you are happy with.
 
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I have tried cutting back the light period.

I will try and add some snails this wekeend if I can find any deals at the LFS. usually $5 a snail. I don't want to buy allot online and pay high shipping costs either.

Another idea is to chuck the LR ans corals and go FO.
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sorry I missed that.

I agree shipping costs eat up the lfs costs.

I don't think you should have to chuck the lr and corals and go fo. but it is your tank. You may find similiar problems with a fo also.
 
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Where did I go wrong? I thought I was following the same pattern as everyone else?

Can someone please explain the EXACT husbandry porceedures and timelines for maintenance of their working tanks?

Maybe I am doing water changes wrong? Take out 15 gallons siphoning the detritus and adding 15 new gallons.

Maybe I am running the pumps wrong?

Maybe I am running the skimmer wrong?

Maybe I am running the auttopoff/kalkreactor wrong?

Maybe I am using the RO/DI/DI wrong? Maybe I should get another brand, currently using the aquatic reef systems 4 stage.
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Anonymous

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I use the same RO/DI, Rob, with no problems. Have you considered getting a pod order from an online vendor...might be worth a shot.
 
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Rob_Reef_Keeper":3a3y6s0p said:
Where did I go wrong? I thought I was following the same pattern as everyone else?

Can someone please explain the EXACT husbandry procedures and timelines for maintenance of their working tanks?
...

.

You have done nothing wrong.

All the large systems I have seen simply have refugiums full of plant life.

Your system is just generating the plant life to consume the nutrients it is producing. That simply can not be avoided in a closed system.
 

ChrisRD

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beaslbob":3iskz0mt said:
All the large systems I have seen simply have refugiums full of plant life.

Then you really need to get out more Bob... ...reef tanks have been successfully run without algae filters for decades, and in fact, many have tried them and gone back to a system without one...

beaslbob":3iskz0mt said:
Your system is just generating the plant life to consume the nutrients it is producing. That simply can not be avoided in a closed system.

If nutrient imports/exports are balanced whatever little algae growth still occurs can easily be consumed by grazing animals.
 

JohnH

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Rob,

I'm in similar situation. My feeding/maintenance habits are similar to yours, and I've been fighting hair algae for the past several months. I've added lights, powerheads, hermits, snails, Emeralds, Sea Hare, reduced feedings, RO/DI, PhosReactor, and even replaced a lot of algae-covered rock. What I'm trying right now is to grow Caulerpa in the main tank (on rock rubble in each corner) to hopefully out-compete the hair algae. If that works (too early to tell), I plan to add a refugium and move the Caulerpa there. If it doesn't, I may give up the hobby.
 
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Rob_Reef_Keeper":discx2z9 said:
How does one keep a Fish Only tank clean and running? I see tanks with NO LR and there is no algae.

Vaccum the gravel, clean the glass with a magnet, and take all the tank decorations out to be hand cleaned before photos! They also tend to have MUCH lower light which really inhibits algae growth.
 

ChrisRD

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John,

"Friends don't let friends grow Caulerpa" - Anthony Calfo :lol:

Seriously, I think you're going to regret putting Caulerpa in your main tank. If you want to do the macro filter thing I would use Chaetomorpha and other less noxious types.
 
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Anonymous

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I don't think it has much to do with nutrients that you are adding to the WC. I think it has to do with nutrients that are on/in the rock. Clean/cook the rock and I think the algae will go away.
 
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Rob_Reef_Keeper":5dibzsqm said:
IO sucks compared to Oceanic IME. too low of ca and mag.

okay.... i'll look past the fact that calcium and magnesium are only two of many properties. it still is no reason to keep using a salt that so many people have attributed to algae outbreaks.

i quit using IO too because of pathetically low calcium readings, and then tried the oceanic.. now i am using Kent and things look much better.

i don't know think all the batches of Oceanic are bad and i am not certain what exactly is out of whack with the Oceanic i bought but it is funky.

thi smight not be your problem but i would consider it.
 
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Anonymous

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I am kind of having/had a similar problem.

I had all my rock and corals get covered with a thick matt of hair algae, it was about an inch long. It looked just like a field of wheat before it turns amber, billowing in the breeze, grew right up each colony of sps and killed every one. I even had two fish that gorged on the stuff, but they could not keep up. We actually took the display tank down it was so bad and kept the sump tanks running in the basement fish room while we decided what to do, get out of the hobby or persevere. I know it is really tough Rob! I am sure it is even worse when you don't have the option of shoving everything out of sight like I did.

Anyway, I did major changes, removed all the dirty sand, did a massive massive refugium upgrade, cut back feedings, went from MH to PC (there were other reasons behind that move too) added snails, added a DI cartridge to my Ro system. I even added an extra hang on skimmer I had laying around for extra measure!!!

The crazy hair algae is gone, I still get fuzzy algae in the places my tang cannot get to and in my fuge, but what concerns me is I am seeing a ton of detritus all over my rock. I was not able to see any of this when everthing was covered with the thick hair algae, but when I think back, every time I pulled out clumps of HA, it had what seemed like soil built up underneath. I truly feel that this dirt coming out of the rock was a significant contribution to our algae problem, and that the big changes we have made have helped, but if we stopped for a minute with the extra skimming, waterchanges, and heavy macro growth, then the HA would be back in a heartbeat.

The detritus piles up underneath the rock, and I have been stymied about where it all is coming from, one day after blasting to rock with a powerhead, it's all dirty again. I hardly feed, and when I do I am target feeding the anemone, every else gets scraps or a little macro algae. We also always suck out detritus every time we do a water change (which is often) but still, there is junk all over the rock.

Some of my rock is 7 years old, the youngest rock is almost three, and I am now thinking I may have "clogged up" filthy rock that needs to be "cooked", I plan on reading up on that more and trying it with a few pieces to see how it goes.

Anyway, I don't want to sideline your thread, but I thought something from my experience would be helpful.

I wish I had pictures of the algae, it was truly rediculous. I totally understand your frustration.
 
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Anonymous

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Is cooking the LR another Fad of the month like the DSB and now bare bottom and Atkins or South Beach.
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Rob_Reef_Keeper":33tb0zlf said:
Is cooking the LR another Fad of the month like the DSB and now bare bottom and Atkins or South Beach.

yep.

As with most of the other methods recommended and used its primary goal is to reduce the unwanted algae growth. And even laura used a refugium as part of the numerous things to conquer that unwanted algae growth.
 

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