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Anonymous

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I'm in the process of using a tank and making it a zoo only tank (although knowing me I'll throw in a fish or two). I want to kind of fiddle with a few things

1) growing out zoanthids from people nice enough to give me a couple heads for trade or giveaways at local swaps or anyone willing to pay shipping (not for profit though)

2) experimenting with different types of mounting surfaces and compare growth rates how quickly they spread out, surfaces like live rock, pvc pipe, acrylic, eggcrate plastic, to kind of get an idea for how readily they attach and propagate. I'll really try to do this semi-scientifically (atleast until I get bored) and document various results

Now I'm curious what would be the best setup for this in the various ways. The tank will be a 30g tank, approx dimensions are 36L x 15W x 16H (which upon remeasuring seems to be 38g?). I'm going to run this as a single tank, no sump/refugium or anything else hanging off the side or anything, this is going to be a quiet tank with none of that nonsense.

Substrate: Sand or No sand? I really want to stay away from a DSB(mostly due to lack of sand), but I realize softies like a little more "dirty" of an area(ie food), plus I hope to get some pods going on here without predation (other than the corals, or until I inevitably get bored and put a cute little fish in there ) .

Filtration: Since there (atleast initially) will be no fish or anything I'm hoping my bioload will be low enough that I won't need a skimmer, unfortunately I know the dirty (no pun) truth that the zoanthids will require food of some sort that will probably extend beyond the ability for the pods to procreate and feed them (not to mention they need food to go on too!) so might need some sort of skimming, and I have a CPR bakpak skimmer that I could use as a skimmer. Just curious what thoughts others might have here maybe a HOB whisper/pengiun type filter or what not (something cheap).

Waterflow: I have two ideas on this matter (or a combo of both) one is using a Seio620 I have collecting dust.. I figure that thing would be more than enough flowwise, just over 15x the water and its diffuse enough that nothing we get blasted. Another idea is a closed loop where the pump sits inside the tank, and then just use pvc pipe along the ground with various tees to shoot water angled out at various locations which could be nice with the overall theme of trying to grow zoos on the piping to cover it up etc, the problem with this though is that I'm a tad worried about the pump vibrations that would occur for a pump of similar volume (600gph range) especially since it'll be hooked to piping that would vibrate as well.

Lighting: I was thinking of going with some T5 lights, unfortunately that'd cost me a few bucks to buy the bulbs or the ballast/bulb assembly, and I do have some 55w/65w PC bulbs sitting around (in 10kK and Actinic variety) which are cheaper, although the issue is the odd size 22" long, so I'd have to stagger them. I originally was thinking 1-55w 10000k bulb and 1-65w actinic, but I'm thinking maybe 2-55w bulbs would be better. The PC bulbs would require me to hook up some sort of canopy as well, T5 bulbs would end up costing me $50 for a 78 watt setup (36" long), but they have "blue" bulbs, and that doesn't fluoresce for sh**.

Rocks: Well I have plenty of live rock (or atleast was at one time) cooking in bins on my porch (even has heat in there! just no light), but I dont want to just cram the tank full of rock, because I dont want a full reef tank I want a zoanthid growing tank. So thinking a 1 or 2 larger pieces, and maybe a few smaller ones.

Feeding: Any ideas on what to feed? Phyto/cyclopeze/rotifers/what? And how often?

So I'd appreciate any comments, advice whatever any can give. Right now I'm not really commited to anything except the tank and the location, and the fact this is a zoo growout area.
 

m-fine

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In my experience your going to need one or more of the following 3 choices to keep nitrate in check:

1) Deep (3-6") sand/gravel bed

2) Lots of live rock

3) frequent water changes

I really like the DS/GB because of all the critters that live in it. They both eat waste and add food to the water stream. If you go with the larger "florida" gravel it will also be a great place for pods even if you only have an inch or two. If no sand, I would put in a good layer of the "live rock" you have, even if you break it up into smaller chuncks. If it was mine, I would probably go with anout 3" of gravel (larger sized for critters) and top that off with another 3-4 inches of live rock arranged to crate a relatively flat area to gorw the zoos in the upper 8-10" of the tank where the light will be stronger.

A mat of Chaeto algae will also help for pods, and you can put it in a small in tank refuge (egg crate?) or wedge it into a rock.

For lighting, If I was building it it and someone else was paying, I would go with 3 96 watt PC's which are perfect for a 36" tank and will give you great light for zoos. I would have one act 03 that comes on first and goes off last, followed by a half 10K/act03 and finally a 10K that is only on for the peak daylight hours (4 hours in my tanks). That is going to cost you a lot more then $50 to get started though! You can get away with alot less and you can always upgrade later.

I would defintiely use a protien skimmer and the CPR you have should be perfect. Why look for something else?

For the pump I would use the Seio because it will generate less heat and be a hell of a lot easier to service the a pump and pipe system covered in zoos!

I rarely feed my zoos anything on purpose, but in my reef there are always a lot of particles of god knows what floating around. I think cleaner and other shrip are good at releasing sperm into the water so they my be a good choice to keep the zoos company.

m-fine
 

bradl.

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Your pcs should be fine to start.But to get the results you want your gonna eventually need halides. Just keep looking till you find a nice used ballast and reflector. Id say bare bottom would be ok if you have enough live rock. Keep up with your water changes. As for feeding, I target feed my zoos and Blastos every day or 2. Shut off your pumps and get a test kit syringe. I use different types of zooplankton and cyclopeeze and just squirt a little on each colony.Zoas are carnavores and do absorb some food from the water. Dont over feed!
 

ChrisRD

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I doubt what substrate you have (or don't have) will make much difference except in the sense that zoanthids do best with strong current (at least IME) and having a fine substrate in the tank can make it difficult to crank up the flow IMO. I also agree with the suggestion of halide lighting if you're looking to grow 'em out quick...
 
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Anonymous

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Well I already know who the heretics are within the local club (aka Gresham fits in that circle) but wanted to see how they are more across the country ;)

But basically I know the benifits of sand, it keeps a dirtier tank, and that is actually more benificial since zoos eat the disolved organics. But maybe someone could say no go barebottom and give an example as to why other than being able to put 3000gph of flow without causing a sandstorm :)
 
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Anonymous

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For lighting I think T5s would be ideal. While Zoanthids do ok under NOs, I think they really thrive under brighter light. MHs are ideal, but I'm not sure about the cost differential. On a smaller tank with only a few bulbs, I don't suppose MHs can compete with T5s, but I may be wrong.

The question of substrate depends IMO on how much LR you end up using. If you use none then a DSB could be thought of as essential, but if you have a reasonable amount in there, that should provide all the dissolved organics you need. Though this isn't the case if the rock is thoroughly cooked.

Not sure if any of that really helped... :?
 
A

Anonymous

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Well luck have it I picked up a metal halide ballast and mogul socket for $20 :D .. 175watts too, converted it from an outdoor MH setup to the aquarium kind .. tested it with an old 14000k hamiliton, and voila, cheap ass MH setup.

Now I still need to whack some wood together and stick some reflective mylar in there, but other than that, I rule!
 
A

Anonymous

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My feeling on zoa's is the less PO4/excess nutrients the better. Sand beds seem to run at higher po4 levels and they do run higher in excess nutrients. My 5 year old DSB sure does, but I run a poly pad 24/7 ;) AH, you painted me in the wrong light Mike :D I have both BB and DSB systems going ;) Yup, I advocate BB, but only cause I've gone majorly in the other direction first :D

Zoas may require a "dirtier" tank, but so does algea, one of zoas worst enemies! What could be a better reason then that ;) If you feed them, they'll get all the nutrition they need, minus the sand ;)
 
A

Anonymous

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Well I can always remove a sand bed, which might be an easier thing to do than adding sand and worrying about the insueing sandstorm.
 
A

Anonymous

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And on the 7th day... he said "LET THERE BE LIGHT!"

p10100073ao.jpg


Here's my nice homemade MH fixture *snicker* with DIY 175w ballast assembly. I got an old (1yr) 14000k hamiliton bulb over it so its not as bright as it probably should be, but still looks nice enough for now.

I'm wondering how long I need to wait for this bad boy to cycle though since the live rock is cured beyond cured, although the sand was dried out so who knows, maybe I'll test ammonia levels tonight, if I read zero great! If not.. not so great. Then maybe I'll siphon some sand around the rocks of my sump trying to get some pods in there.

Can't wait to toss some zoos in!
 
A

Anonymous

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Looking good!

I discovered some very cool Zoas popping out of a previously empty rock yesterday. They are charming little buggers aren't they?

:D
 

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