• Why not take a moment to introduce yourself to our members?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Dewman

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
OK, here is the sitrep

10 gallon nano
2 years old. All levels optimal for that size tank.
Contents:
Watermelon striped Mushrooms
Blue mushrooms
Hairy Green mushrooms
Red Mushrooms
Green Star Polyps
Brown Star polyps
Green button polyps
Brown Button polyps
Pom/Blue Xenia
Devils hand leather
Colt coral
Orange Montipora
Blue Candy cane
10 blue legged
3 red legged
4 margarita snails
2 bumble bee snails
2 purple ringtop snails
True Percula F
Royal Gramma.

Lighting:
90 watts

I bought a young Green BTA about June.

I have read a lot about them and thought I had this whole thing down.
When I got it home, I waited and let it decide where it was going to stay for a while. I arranged a spot I hoped it would find enjoyable, but ultimately, it found one it liked better.
No problem though, luckily,it seems to like the the spot where it killed off big enough for its tenticles. I don't have to bother moving it or corals again.
It has only remained about 5 inches in diameter. And I have never seen it eat. It's tenticles have only recently become sticky.
It seems happy and takes little trips around the tank ending up back in it's spot. But all attempts to feed it have failed. I continue to dose with DT's for all of the corals.
I am worried, shouldn't it eat soon?
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hi Dewman,
Sorry your having anen. troubles.

Bta's don't usually eat when stressed and the fact that it wanders the tank should be telling you that it isn't happy. IMO, mainly due to the lighting. Has it's color faded? Or has it shrunk in size?

BTA's need intense light and good current.

Try feeding it some meaty food (very small pieces) soaked in selcon. That should help.
 

SnowManSnow

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I would THINK that 9w/g would be more than enough for a BTA. They don't need as much lighting as most other anemones, and comparitively speaking are much easier to keep.

You also said that it's tenticles have RECENTLY become sticky... this is a good thing. Perhaps you are actually nourshing it BACK to health after being in the LFS?

When you do try to feed it what happens? Does the food just slide off in the current? Do the tenticles curl in at all as if trying to get it to it's mouth?

I once had a sick BTA that I nourshed back from the brink by feeding it cyclopeez.. it LOVED those things!!

One last thought.. it isnt being attacked by anything in the tank is it?

B.
 

SavetheReefs

Experienced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
That stock list looks like a list for at least a 55 gallon tank. No anemone belongs in a 10 gallon tank. For if it was to thrive and do well it would out grow the 10 gallon tank rather quickly. Not to mention if this anemone is moving all around your tank I am sure the anemone is not avoiding any of the corals.

And why would you add the anemone knowing it was going to kill corals? Would you buy small wrasses and gobies to throw them in a predator tank to be eaten by the likes of Groupers, Triggers, Eels, and so on?

This is truly the kind of attitude and actions that is ruining the hobby. Do not be the person that buys something because it is pretty. Think of every purchase as an adoption and you are going to try and give that livestock the best possible chance of thriving in your system without putting anything already established in your sysem at risk.

I am sorry but this is my opinion.

SaveTheReefs
 

Dewman

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Knowse, and SnowManSnow,

Feeding involves me chopping up some small krill, soaking them in selcon, and using my tongs to place the chunk onto it's oral disc. I usually try to brush the tenticles to stimulate the feeding behavior, but I have to fight the clown for the food usually unless I place the meat direcly into the edge of the oral oriface.

The tenticles do curl inward in a feeding action, but the anemone usually just allows the food to float back out into the water column for the fish to take care of. The animal came from the LFS at about 3 " across, it is now 5 " across, but that is of course, just an estimate.
Lighting is more than sufficient. 2 BTA's were kept under this fixture in a friends tank, so I know it's not the light. The anemone has actually darkened up since I brought it home, and it's tenticles have taken on the bubble shape. In the lfs it was pale with long stringy tenticles.
I said it moves around, but this is a very common thing for a BTA until it reaches maturity, and finds a crevice with the perfect mix of water flow and light.
But I agree that the water flow may be less than optimal.


Now, time to take out the trash...

SaveThe Reefs

The bioload of my tank is optimal. My corals are all healthy and happy. So much so in fact that I have helped propogate at least three other nano's with my cuttings. Everything I have in my tank is the healthiest example of each animal I have ever seen.
How can you possibly judge my tank simply from a list. My water contains no detectable nitrates.
Did you hear that? NO DETECTABLE NITRATES in a 10 gallon. My DKH is high and my PH is perferct. I spend 15 minutes a day on tank maintenance and probably an hour each weekend.
I have never had disease or dieoff. In fact this is the first time I have ever experienced this type of problem with any animal I have introduced into my tank.

As for the anemone killing off a spot for it to occupy, I am perfectly ok with this. As of today, it has killed 4-8 button polyps, two tufts of rapidly growing xenia, and 2 green hairy mushrooms, which, I just found floating around the bottom of my tank. They unattached and I affixed them to another spot on the rock. They are now opening up, so they don't count.

I have the highest respect for all of my animals, but I understand the the hierarchy in a tank, as does anyone with a well stocked and well kept aquarium. Corals fight. It's a mini chemical war when two corals meet. One of them has to lose. There is a reason for all things, and I prefer to let the corals work it our for themselves. This has been my attitude for many years, and it has worked in all 4 of my aquariums. From my 90 all the way down to my 10.
You are more than welcome to come over any time and seperate out each of my corals from eachother if you like. Maybe this will make you feel better. In fact, maybe you better form a league to protect all of the corals in the world from possible stings from anemones. There are millions of ruthless animals running amok on the sea floor right now, stinging countless victims.

SaveTheReefs -
If I had wanted ignorant criticizm, I would have asked you specifically.


Sorry to everyone else.
I love this place. I really do....
Please, helpful responses are highly encouraged
 

SavetheReefs

Experienced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
So what you are saying is you will throw all your corals in a small box and let them fight it out for themselves?

So far you have sacrificed 4-8 button polyps, two tufts of rapidly growing xenia. THAT'S WONDERFUL I guess you enjoy playing God. Propagate one day and sacrifice the next

But let me give you the benefit of the doubt. Lets say your BTA survives, thrives, and grows.

What happens then?

1) The anemone moves in a spot in the tank so it does not harm any of his tank mates?

2) The anemone jumps out of your 10 gallon tank and into your 90 gallon tank?

3) Darwinism at its best, let the corals fight amongst themselves.

Oh yeah and this method has worked in all 4 of your aquariums huh. So how many corals have you sacrificed? And do you think they would say it has worked out for their benefit?

Disease and die-off, well you have 2 fish and softies, no real challenge there.

And all of your levels are perfect huh. This is because during your 15 minutes of daily maintenance you check your salinity, calcium, PH, DKH, nitrates, and so on. Is this before or after you top of the tank?

Oh but let me guess, you have an auto top off, PH and CA meter. And an electronic water tester that tells you everything else.

And what kind of lighting do you have for your 90 watts? 2 PCs maybe?

Listen dude, I check for nothing on my tanks except salinity once a month or so. I could not tell you any of my levels. And besides cleaning the glass and feeding the fish I might do regular maintenance once a month. So to be impresses by your so called hard work is not impressive. I am impressed when someone setups a tank that is self sufficient.

Oh yeah and you never go out of town or on vacation. Oh let me guess you have the neighbors kid trained to do tank maintenance and he keeps a log that you check when you get home.

And my last question which you already avoided once.
Corals fight. It's a mini chemical war when two corals meet. One of them has to lose.
So would it be appropriate to throw some small gobies and wrasses in a large predator tank?

Hey there are winners and losers and every fish is for themselves, or at least that is what I get from your previous statements.

Please do not respond if you do not answer this question which I have now asked for the second time.

SaveTheReefs
 

Dewman

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
SaveThe Reefs,

So all you want to do is attack me. Is this because you feel some sort of a need to make yourself look like a bad-ass to the rest of the members? Well, I agree, you are bad, a bad reef owner, and you are an @ss. ( that's just my opinion by the way. No name calling here)

As for your question about the predator tank, well, it all depends on the size of the tank. A friend of mine has a 1275 gallon aquarium and he keeps a couple of everything in there. He keeps several predatory fish in the tank along with many more docile species.
So be more specific little man.

As for my tank:
I add nothing to my aquarium except topoff and food, it is a self sufficient ecosystem other than that. Yes I do have an automatic topoff I constructed myself. And while I do have a PH meter, the only thing I check daily is the salinity. The rest of it I check on the weekend. I don't understand what being responsible and checking the levels in my tank has to do with your argument. I don't like seeing my fish stress out because of a spike in one of the parameters. In a 10gal, a little goes a long way.

As for the difficulty of keeping this tank that way, while it is more difficult to crop due to the space restrictions, you are correct, it is not tough to maintain, and I like it that way. I don't know if you have ever kept a nano, but it takes a lot more skill to keep a 10 than it does a larger tank.
That being said, I have had tanks that required much more attention, and I just don't have that kind of time to spare right now.

To address the rest of your questions so you don't get your feelers hurt:
1.Yes, if the BTA outgrows my nano ( which it shouldn't) I will drop it into another tank.
2. How many corals have I sacrificed? Not sure, If something starts to grow over something else, i just decide which one I like better.
3. Yes, I am GOD .
4. Don't call me dude.


Now, do you want to calm down and play nice with everyone little boy?
 

SavetheReefs

Experienced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Well I think you summed up the entire thread by saying
3. Yes, I am GOD

And you are the only person taking it personally, making personal attacks, and getting mad as well as using vulgarity which is a sign of lack of intelligence.

dude, best of luck to you playing god.

SaveTheReefs


BTW: Does anyone have a BTA for a while that could over this person your first hand knowledge. He is under the impression that his BTA wil thrive but not outgrow his 10 gallon tank. giggle giggle
 

Dewman

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
SaveTheReefs -
I appreciate your aknowledgement that I am GOD.

Now bow down to me by replying to my post again....
I command you to reply!!! In the name of... well... ME!

Whatever DUDE.


Steve,
I will try to rearrange the rock again so that it can find lower light. But since there is only one chunk of base rock, I'm not sure how I will achieve that. I'm sure you are correct, it wasn't accustomed to that much light. Like I mentioned in email, the light in the dealer tank was 3X less than what I am giving it now. You were correct to guess that it was finding spots with lower light in the tank. I would have thought after 3 months it would have become acclimatized.
I saw that it did better in lower light areas, but I have never owned an anemone that shrunk from the light. Very strange. I have, at your advice, increased the amount of time the actinics are on and decreased the total amount of white light the tank recieves.
Tiny tanks are so tricky.

I think this thread has seen it's end.
I appreciate the helpful advice given by some of you off the board. I can appreciate you not wanting to get involved.

Thanks for everyone's help!!
 

SavetheReefs

Experienced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
And who would of thought that "God" would be from

Arkansas

Who knows maybe other great figures in history are from Arkansas.

Like maybe, oh I do not know, Bill Clinton..........hahaha

I am surprised you have time to be a student when you are "God"

Wait a second, if you are "God" why do you need to be a student?

dude, you are to funny

and please keep us up date on your 10 gallon tank

SaveTheReefs
 

SnowManSnow

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
This MAY have been mentioned before, just pardon me if it has been.

Sometimes a healthy clown can just "bother" an anemone. I have a BTA that a Med sized tomato choose to call home, and since it has the BTA hasn't expanded to the size that it use to be without the clows.

I wonder if this may also explain its eating? Perhaps the clown is providing sufficent nourishment for the BTA and it simply isn't hungry for extra food?

B.
 

Dewman

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
SnowManSnow

You know, I never really thought of that.
It's funny you mentioned it, because today I force fed the anemone by actually placing the shrimp piece into the opening. The clown proceeded to pick it back out, and then turn around and put it right back.
Also, while the anemone doesn't "grab" the food, it does "funnel" it to the oral opening. And if it doesn't make it to middle quick enough, the clown will grab the piece and force it into the mouth.
Unfortunately, it always falls back out and I net it out later.
He's pretty aggressive with it.
Funny thing is, he's tank raised.

I may take out the clown and drop him into a friends tank for a week or so. Then I can give the anemone a rest and see what happens.

BTW, I bought a book today, "Clownfishes" by Joyce D Wilkerson. I will give my impressions when I am done with it.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I can agree to a small degree that an anemone in a 10 gallon is pushing it.
If something goes wrong with the anemone,say it dies while you are at work, or away, you will lose most of your stock in short order. They are toxic when dead.

That being said, there are no absolutes in this hobby, and the fact that you seem to know what you are talking about, are keeping very good care of your water parameters, and know the risks are all anyone can ask of another reefer.

Also, don't worry about spot feeding if it isnt taking to it. If the clown is feeding it, it is getting way more than enough food. I have a clown that wants nothing to do with my anem, and it does fine catching the different foods I feed the tank. Every once in a while i will give it some mysis with a pair of tongs specifically.

Good luck!
 

SavetheReefs

Experienced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Interesting information I have found on BTA keeping.

From WetWebMedia

BTA Anemone System 9/26/05
Hi WWM Crew,
I was planning on setting up a 20-30 gallon BTA Anemone tank but don't any idea what I need so my question how would you suggest i set this tank up. <Steve, I would suggest you not set up a BTA system in a 20/30 gallon tank. Tank volume is too small to have a shot at successfully keeping these for any length of time. That and the fact if one should die unnoticed, the tank will foul overnight killing any other inhabitants you may have with them. For BTA's, I would go no lower than a 55 gallon. Check out our anemone info on the Wet Web, plenty there to read. James (Salty Dog)>

Wow 55 gallon minium. But I am sure this does not apply to God.

Maybe the original poster can post a picture of his tank?
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
SavetheReefs":3bfvousi said:
Interesting information I have found on BTA keeping.

From WetWebMedia

BTA Anemone System 9/26/05
Hi WWM Crew,
I was planning on setting up a 20-30 gallon BTA Anemone tank but don't any idea what I need so my question how would you suggest i set this tank up. <Steve, I would suggest you not set up a BTA system in a 20/30 gallon tank. Tank volume is too small to have a shot at successfully keeping these for any length of time. That and the fact if one should die unnoticed, the tank will foul overnight killing any other inhabitants you may have with them. For BTA's, I would go no lower than a 55 gallon. Check out our anemone info on the Wet Web, plenty there to read. James (Salty Dog)>

Wow 55 gallon minium. But I am sure this does not apply to God.

Maybe the original poster can post a picture of his tank?

Everything an "expert" has an opinion on should be taken witha grain of salt. DSB's were all the rage, and most experts said this is the end all be all of substrate use. Now we are seeing that trend die a bit with some long term discoveries.

There are too many variables in any closed system mechanically, not to mention the caretaker themselves, to form any kind of strict guidelines.

While the general notion woul dbe to avoid such marine life in a small tank, peopl ehave kept them successfully for years. I find those to be the people who are into he husbandry enough to keep pristine water conditions vs. those who buy them because they look cool.
 

Dewman

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
ctgretzky,
Thanks for the advice, and the support.


Save the Reefs,
Geeeze, give it up man! Can't you just let go for God's (my) sake?

Everyone else sees that I am just egging you on, and you are falling for it every time. Don't be such a simp...
 

SavetheReefs

Experienced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hey Dewman I would like to donate some live rock to replace your base rock in your 10 gallon.

And we are still all waiting for some pictures!

SaveTheReefs
 

Dewman

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Rover, i am starting to lean your way.

I like nano's, they serve a purpose.
But I think I am going to either step up to the 30 I have been looking at, or
Since we have a new house, we have allowance for getting a couple of toys for ourselves.
I have chosen a big screen TV and a new Tank.

I talked my wife into allowing me to do a 120 if I want. So I think that may be the new decision. We will just have to wait and see.
 

SavetheReefs

Experienced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Dewman I was wondering what happened to the second clown and yellow clown goby that you had in your 10 gallon tank?

And are you still looking for a group of 5-6 fish the will schoal in the middle water column of your 10 gallon tank?

SaveTheReefs
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Sponsor Reefs

We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.

Click here to sponsor $10:


Top