So exactly how important WAS that support piece?

[Anonymous]

Well, I know I wasn't "supposed" to remove the center piece of plastic at the top of the tank, so I didn't. However, when I put my new MH lights up 5 inches above it, it did. The center piece is about 90% melted through in a matter of minutes. So the question is, how important was it? Should I finish cutting it and replace it, let the eye sore be, or what? I am leaning towards cutting it because it really doesn't appear to do anything. It has alwasys been pretty wobbly which leads me to believe that it really isn't so much a support piece for the tank itself but more of a support piece for the glass lid that used to be on it. TIA. [/b]

 

[Anonymous]

What size tank is it?
I would be extremely uncomfortable with a broken center brace and would probably drain the tank and repair it... but thats just me.

 

[Anonymous]

Ok just so we are clear, it is that flimsy center piece of plastic that is 1/16 to 1/32 of an inch thick. You would drain your tank to repair that? It is a 46 gallon Bow front BTW. I will post a pic here ina few minutes.

 

[Anonymous]

I may be overly-cautious.

The best-case is that nothing happens, and the worst-case is that the tank splits at the seams while full of livestock. It may be that the worst-case is very unlikely, but the stakes would be sooooo high if it happened that I wouldn't be comfortable living with it broken.

The brace is for structural support, and not just to hold the lids, but it may be a very redundant support. I don't know, but the thought of my tank busting full of fish and corals while I wasn't home would likely drive me crazy.

 

[Anonymous]

here is the pics.

 

[Anonymous]

Well you might think that's a "flimsy piece" but if you've ever seen earthquake straps, they basically are rather thin pieces of aluminum or steel that they bolt to the vertical studs. They are not meant to stand up against sheer stresses they are meant to withstand tension stresses. In this case to prevent the front of the glass from bowing out any further.

Now that might be a safety piece more so than a piece that is really needed. What I would do is find an empty tank like that (from the LFS you bought it maybe??) and find out what the size is front to back along that brace.. then measure your tank and see if there's any noticable deflection. Then depending upon if there is or not work from there.

 

[Anonymous]

The tank needs the support brace.

You could try to use a couple lengths of stainless steel cable to replace the support but don't remove what's there until the new brace is in place. The two front top corners are a weak point on the bowfront and removing the brace completely will stres those points and they could easily fail. If it fails the entire front glass will pop off.

Acrylic is also an option using nylon screws to hold it in place but you would need a fan to keep the acrylic cool so it doesn't melt.

 

[Hyperfocal]

It seems to me that if it didn't need to be there the manufacturer would have saved the materials cost and not put it there. Better safe than sorry.

 

[MandarinFish]

Not worth the risk to let it stay as-is.

As a man who has suffered through spilt saltwater on hardwood floors and has lost livestock to stupity on occasion (I will *never* let a tank overheat, ever, ever again).... I agree with the other guys Ranger. Better safe than sorry.

Anthony of aquadesignz.com keeps his corals in a vat in his garage. The vat is huge - hundreds of gallons, made of thick plastic. It has braces. In spite of that, the plastic bends and bows. There's *so* much pressure put on tanks all the time, every joint, 24/7 with the weight of water.

I know joining the sides with a repaired brace is a PITA, but I'd do it.

Being a relatively small bowfront, it may be secure. But if it isn't?

 

[Anonymous]

Well, I took some measurements, and it is only about a 1/4 inch difference between an empty new tank at petsmart and my full one. I am planning on bracing it with the left over cables from the lights I just bought, but not sure how to attach it to the lip so as not to put more spot specific pressure on it. Any ideas? I am going to go to HD tomorrow to see what the guys who actually know how to make and repair stuff say to brace it. Thanks for your input.

 

[Anonymous]

Here is how to brace that sucker so it won't break...

take a good piece of rope and run it down behind the tank, under the stand and back up the front of the tank. Tie a bowline in one end and then use that loop to tie another bowline with the other end of the rope. Make it a bit loose, you need it loose for the next step.

then Slide the rope around until the bowlines are at the back of the tank.

Then take a stick about 2 foot long and stick it across the rope above the tank, then wrap the rope around it once. Then if you twist the stick around in a circle it will twist the rope and tighten it up.

Tighten it up nice and snug, but not so tight you smash the tank. Once its tight you can rubber band or duct tape the stick to the rope so it can't untwist.


There, tank secured

Glad I could help...

 

[SnowManSnow]

Thats EXACTLY what I did to my center brace. Here's the plan that worked for me.

1. clamp the aquarium with long wood working clamps to keep it together while you work ( this way you dont have to drain the thing)

2. Use a roto zip to cut the center brace out leaving 1 inch at the front and 1 at bottom.

3. Drill 2 holes in the front and back parts and insert 1/2 gromet into the hole to keep your steel cable from cutting through the plastic. I epoxied around the edges to keep them in place.

4. Run the cable through the holes and pull tight. Find some sort of fastening device to keep it tight and you're in shape!

5. Remove the braces / clamps

(oh and dont hate me if your tank explodes
0
Below is a pic of what I did.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the tips. I think I am gonna go with option B from snowman, while knuckleheads plan was intriguing...yeah thats the word...lol. never thought about drilling through. Thanks a million. Oh I will find you personally responsible if my tank explodes :lol: See you in court. Kidding of course. or am I. Just kidding. Maybe/maybe not. Hmmmmm.

 

[Anonymous]

but not so tight you smash the tank

Very important tip! :lol:

 

[Anonymous]

yep. replace/fix it. A friends 110 cracked because the center brace broke, and he didn't have time to fix it before he went on vacation. 2am his girlfriend called him screaming that the tank exploded.

so fix it!

B

 

[mike90]

i thought that was just there to hold the glass tops

 

[Anonymous]

Me too, but if you go look at a new tank there is a big yellow sticker on it that says "DO NOT FILL TANK WITH WATER IF BRACE IS BROKEN!!!" so I am going to assume that EVERYONE here is right and you and I are in the wrong and fix it lol. Bunch of dang know-it-alls lol. Thanks for the help everyone.

 

[SnowManSnow]

during the process of replacing my brace i had to see what would happen without one (tank filled). So, I began to loose the brace that was holding the front and back together and low and behold the tank began to bow. I'm sure if I had left the brace out it wouldn't have been pretty. I'm not sure if a bow front is stronger or weaker than a strait front. I would assume a little weaker, simply because the arch seems like it would create a little more watter weight out in front and push harder.

At any rate my cable brace has worked great. I just keep an eye on it to make sure that the cables haven't frayed anywhere. Oh, and they make a cool BOOOIINNG sound if you pluck them.

B.

 

[Anonymous]

Sweet I can use the cables to be in the local hick band. We already have a guy who plays the moonshine bottle. His wife/sister/cousin plays a mean washboard too. Gotta lova Bama. ROLL TIDE..








j/k




GO DUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Anonymous]

Where the hell did that come from?