his logic is flawed.Felipe":1nb1agn9 said:The LFS guy's logic was this:
When he keeps the heater at 82, his MH kick on and raise the temp to 84. So only a 2 degree jump.
He said he noticed a max. water temp. If he keeps his MH on 24 hs/day, the temp tops off at 84, so additional lighting wouldn't heat the weater any more than it already had.
Let me know if you think this makes sense.
what keeps the water/tank from accepting more heat? consider a similar situation of if your heater got stuck in the "on" position. when heaters go bad it's not that the 100W heater suddenly became a 500W heater. it's that it doesn't go off and it's continuously pumping at that small thermal energy. the system can't "bleed" that extra thermal energy off enough or it does it the only way it can, i.e. boiling/evaporative cooling.
the sun is a heater. it'll direct energy into/onto something and the temp will rise unless it's dissipated like sfsu noted. i use a fan, you can use a chiller, a sump (to spread the heat out to a larger volume), etc.
simply put, let's assume the following fictious numbers for a moment: if it takes 100-calories to raise 10-gallons 1-degree and 1-hour of sunlight (on your tank) equals 100-calories.
using the lfs's initial higher starting point, you'd reach 84F from 82F in only two hours. if you started at a lower temp like 78F, it'd take 6-hours to reach the same level. if you're only planning on 2-hours of sun, you'd be ok but you're most likely not. his (not-so-small) system tops out because his evaporative cooling most likely evens out at that level. just like a broken heater will not really boil a tank but tops out at 90F~92F. the evaporative cooling just cancels out the extra continuous heat input. edit: this is the "natural cooling" sfsu mentioned.
that's a really simple application of the concept (ignoring the sun's movement ~ varying energy levels, among other issues) but it's bascially what i'm talking about. i'm sure there are holes in that dummy/layman example but gimme a break. :lol:
slightly higher temps (83~86F) might promote more/faster growth but i'm talking about 88F+. your tank may go that high. i don't know for sure because i don't know the true volume, direct sun time, distance from the window, ambient room temp, etc. it's more dynamics involved than a typical tank setup because it's more subject to the environment (room and outside).
i also agree with sfsu that stability is key. shoot for that rather than an accelerated temp for a normal setup. BUT, you are talking about a prop tank so that might not be what you're looking for. otoh, i would go 'normal' before going 'turbo'. if you can successfully prop using that technique (higher temp) with a typical setup (artificial lighting) then i guess you could apply it to natural lighting.
i disagree with sfsu on the coloration though. ime, you will actually get a enrichment of zoanthid colors. (check my thread on NR's contest sub-forum to see before and after shots) what causes/caused the more color is unknown to me. i see it but i don't know the exact mechanisms behind it (for sure). could be richer phytoplankton feeding the food chain, could light spectrum, could be true daylight effects (dawn-noon-dusk), etc. hth