Anyone using Blueline or Icecap MH Ballasts?

[AJT]

I am going to get some new 250 watt ballasts & wanted some feedback on these 2 models.

Thanks
Andy

 

[Len]

I'm using Icecap 250W ballasts. I have no complaints about it other then it will cause some interference with some controllers and probes around your tank (this is true of any MH electronic ballast from what I've read). The 250W version is less problematic then the 400W versions.

 

[jdeets]

I'm using IceCap 175W eballasts; I have 3 of them; one failed after about a year, I had it replaced under warranty; other than that they've been great.

 

[AJT]

Thanks, I am using X10s, so interference could be a bad thing.
Anyone using Blueline???

 

[Len]

My friend was using bluelines and said interefence was particularly bad. On my Icecap, I was able to fix the interference by moving the controller/probes onto another outlet/circuit. The noise filters don't do the trick for me. If you're using an aquacontroller, I highly recommend you buy the Direct8 outlets. You will experience no intereference problems with them and they switch quietly (unlike noisy X10s).

 

[Anonymous]

I'm using 4 of the icecap 400's and have no problems with them so far. They haven't interfered with anything that I am aware of.

I don't use any wireless controls though.

Louey

 

[Meloco14]

I have the 250w icecaps. They were my first MH ballasts so I have no reference to anything else, but I couldnt be happier. Very easy to wire and use and have had them 1.5 yrs now without a problem. Only thing they interfere with is a few channels of tv 8O

 

[Anonymous]

my opinion is blueline 400w ballasts with radium bulbs is one of the best sets out there for coral coloration. the 20Ks burn whiter with the 400s than with the 250s, and the intensity seems to be lower than say 400W 10Ks on other formats.

There are some goods there, they run cooler, and coral growth is moderate to good, vice screaming out of control. what you'll notice with the blueline/400W, 20K radium setup is incredible color up and a crisp white. The 400s give a little more punch, but will not fry the tank ...so no real temp control issues.

the blueline ballasts are completely cool running as well. What I've found with the Icecaps is that overtime, they tend to "fade" as if they do not hold true frequency over time, like they degrade. this is especially true with the VHO ballasts.

For the money, this is the best format. I augment mine with URI ultra-actinic VHOs. It's really quite stunning.

 

[DapperDan]

X10s are more trouble than they're worth, electronic ballasts or not. Go with Icecap, but ditch the antiquated controllers.

DD

 

[Anonymous]

I've used a 250w electronic icecap on an X10 with (relatively) no problems. - Biggest trouble I've ever had with interference and X10 was a 32w CSL PC ballast, took me a few days to isolate the issue down to the ballast and then I had to filter between the ballast and the X10 switch.

Like DD said though, its best to avoid X10 controllers if possible.


** The "relatively" above did not include the fact that I had to reprogram my X10 controller (one of the "free" "firecracker" kits) to send regular "ON" codes to the switch controlling the icecap because the X10 would return to "OFF" when power was lost. -- SO: All through the "on" phase of my lighting schedule I would have to transmit regular "ON" signals otherwise I would lose the rest of that whole days photoperiod.

 

[pcragg]

The Icecap 175s I had worked great for 5 years before they were retired. Both of my Icecap 250s failed for one reason or another. Icecap repaired them for free, but still a PITA to send back and wait.

I switched to magnetic ballast for my 400s. Less hassle.