A
Anonymous
Guest
The velocity at which the coral spin thru the water will surely stripe any living tissue off it.
GreshamH":d3cbcpjl said:Matt, we have 4 mag. plate stations at my facility. You could have 4 impellars. Our units are geared for lower velocity though, .001rpm to 100rpmWe have larger/faster ones as well. The real trick, is getting one with out any internal moving parts. Most have a "spinner" inside them that creates the motion.
seven ephors":1rsy0w3u said:>...And [no] heat.
It always send some pain up my neck whenever people says no heat when moving/stirring/pumping water... but I guess I am a nit picker.
The one with spinner usually works better in low RPM. For the all-electronic version, you need to have 6 poles to work well, but maybe they have better magnet nowadays. :?
seven ephors":n3cgg217 said:cknowlto, you know I usually discount the techicality / creditability of anybody/any company that try to say their pump add no heat to the aquarium. It usually means that they are more of a salesman than engineer or scientist. Not that there is anything wrong with being a salesman, but trying to pass off as someone else is just misleading.
Timbo":2yeezo8e said:seven ephors":2yeezo8e said:cknowlto, you know I usually discount the techicality / creditability of anybody/any company that try to say their pump add no heat to the aquarium. It usually means that they are more of a salesman than engineer or scientist. Not that there is anything wrong with being a salesman, but trying to pass off as someone else is just misleading.
You are right that mechanical energy in a closed system utlimately results in heat, however you're not portraying the whole picture...
All motors/pumps have a certain efficiency level at which they operate, and I'm not talking about watts-in vs. flow out. I'm talking about efficiency as a percentage in terms of power-in vs. power-out.
I'm going to use a simple to follow example: an AC and DC motor both drawing 100 watts.
Let's say that the AC motor has an efficiency of 60% and that the DC motor has an efficiency of about 70% (these numbers are relatively accurate but of course will vary from motor to motor depending on technology, quality, etc). This means that in the case of the AC motor, 60% of the 100watts is being converted to mechanical energy and 40% is dissipated as heat. If this AC motor is a 100w powerhead, such as a mag pump or something, that basically means that 40w of energy are being added to the aquarium as heat dissipated to the water directly, and the other 60w are being added as mechanical energy.
In the case of the DC motor, at 100watts and 70% efficiency, 70w of energy is being added as mechanical energy, and 30w is being dissipated directly into the water as heat.
Now to pull this back to the whole inside the tank versus outside the tank thing...
Firstly, in an external drive pump, YOU ARE REMOVING HEAT FROM THE AQUARIUM. The heat you are removing is the input energy which is not being outputted as mechanical energy. This is the 40w and 30w in the example above. This is fact, it is not sales hype, it is not a lie. The rest of the energy is being converted into mechanical energy which is added to the aquarium.
Secondly, the amount of heat an externally driven pump will add to an aquarium depends on how well its designed to isolate the heat generated by the motor from the water. Many external magnetic drive and direct drive pumps will actually heat the water a bit just by nature of the motor flowing heat through the magnets/metal drive shaft (good conductors) and into the water. In the case of a pump such as the this magnetic stirrer or the vortech, little heat is added in this sense because glass is a good insulator, and thus prevents heat from the driving magnets passing through the glass and into the water.
I hope everyone was able to follow me here.
Firstly, in an external drive pump, YOU ARE REMOVING HEAT FROM THE AQUARIUM. The heat you are removing is the input energy which is not being outputted as mechanical energy. This is the 40w and 30w in the example above.