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jlinzmaier

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I have about a 10-15 gal fuge and I just have some questions about the lighting.

I currently have a home-made fixture with two standard size screw in sockets. I use two 100 watt 6500K compact flourescent bulbs. I happened to see some 60 watt plant grow incandescent bulbs in the store today and I woundered if they would be better for my fuge lighting.I currently keep red grape kelp and a mangroove plant and I am getting some chaeto soon. There are lots of pods and what not also, but my main focus with my fuge is nutrient export to prevent unwanted algae growth. I want to maximize the lighting so the plants can do their job.

Any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated!
 
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Anonymous

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the beautiful thing about a fuge is there is not such thing as "unwanted" algae.

Color rendition index doesn't really matter. In fact, what I've found is that the crappier the light, the seemingly better.

Wattage is more important. IMO.

For the size of the fuge you're talking about should do well with a 100 watt, daylight bulb.

Post and let us know how it goes.
 

jlinzmaier

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I didn't mean I wanted to prevent algae growth in my fuge, but I do want to prevent algae in my display. I've been using the two 100 watt cmpct flourescent for about 6 mo now with I'd say OK growth from my macroalgae. Curious to see if anybody uses plant grow incandescent bulbs and their effect on growth of macroalgae.
 
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Anonymous

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what photo period do you light your fuge?

I am in the 24/7 on camp. Try increasing your photo period first. Instead of buying new light fixtures.

look at the bright side. If your fuge isn't growing quickly, your water must be relatively nutrient poor.
 

jlinzmaier

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I light it when the main display lights are off and then a little extra in the AM to provide enough light for my grape kelp. Nitrates, nitrites, and phosphates have read zero for months, but I get algae growth so bad in my display I need to clean the glass every 3 days and the LR is continually light green. I have lots of hermits and 2 tangs as well as several snails, I feed only enough to keep my fish alive(which their not too happy with), I use phosban at twice the directed amount, I wet skim, and have a monstrous sump and a canister filter.
Hopefully when I get the chaeto that will solve the problem.
 
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Anonymous

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when this happens there is usually a very obvious culprit. The test kits could be old.

Any detectable phosphate will wreak havoc.

What's the source of your fresh water? Maybe it is to blame.

Try lighting your fuge 24/7 and see if that helps.

Also, I use PhosGuard. Seems to work better.

What's the flow like in your display? Maybe increase it too.

Try a big water change.

Also, get some live sand, and other strains of macro from friends/LFS to increase diversity in your fuge

With a fuge going strong, there should be no sign of any algae in your display.

Are you running a calcium reactor and a nilsen reactor. Lalkwasser can help precipitate out a lot of phosphate an d really improve efficiency of the skimmer.
 

Jolieve

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Phosguard has aluminum as its base, and since there might be a link between that and the shrinking of soft corals, I don't use it. I use phosban which is iron based, and you can also use rowaphos.

J.
 

jlinzmaier

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I use only RO water which I've tested for phosphates and silicates and both are nil. I do weekly 10% water changes but unfortunately don't have a calcium reactor.

Whats a nilson reactor?

I have quite strong water flow and I've run controls on the test kits so I'm quite sure they're accurate.

I've reviewed everything quite carefully and still not sure what the culprit is. Only thought is maybe the frozen food I feed but I feed so little I would't think that could be the prob.

Gonna get some chaeto and run lights on fuge 24/7 and see what happens.

Do pods and snails reproduce and thrive the same with lights on in the fuge 24/7? Will I get the same good pod growth with the lights on constantly or do they benefit from a dark period?
 

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