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coralite1

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Dear Mr. Goldman,
I was really interested by your recent article. This is a curious and logical progression of our hobby and I commend you for pursuing it. Your article was very infomrative about the reproductive strategies of corals but I felt like I was left in the dark as to what it is that you do exactly. What techniques you use to stimulate/trigger spawning, what is the nature of your specially engineered settling chips, characteristics of the minimum sizes of morphologically mature colonies, how you solve the issue of horizontal transmission of symbionts to un-infected planulae. I'd love to know more about the details of these topics, any information would be greatly appreciated. Also, I assume you are familiar with Dirk Petersen's work and http://www.secore.org?
 

CoralfarmGuam

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Hi Coralite,

Ahhh, you ask some very good questions. I am currently writing another article that describes the challenges I face when trying to answer them. Because this is a new approach to farming corals, there really aren’t a whole lot of answers yet...

Spawning and brooding of corals is not something I instigate among corals. Corals, like all organisms, strive to reproduce. We don’t see it (enough) in captivity because many times there are not an excess of resources that would allow corals to allocate them to reproduction. Further, many corals need some type of environmental cue (water temp or lunar cycles for example) to trigger the release of their gametes or planulae. It may sound complicated but you do not need to be an expert at coral spawning or sexual reproduction since corals will spawn or brood if you have created a good environment for them and provide plenty of resources. I have Pocillopora damicornis that broods in captivity and my Acropora are out on the reef (I have been using the same colony for 3 years now). The P. dams use lunar cues and the Acropora use seasonal cues (temp mostly, but I suspect day lengths may be important as well). The trick is how to collect the planulae and larvae. I use plankton netting for the Acropora and I have designed a flow-through catchment system for the P. dams, although this month I simply placed them in a bucket with an air stone over night and was successful with that as well. Pretty basic stuff really :).

Taking it a step further, settling corals is also fairly academic. It has been studied for decades now and many scientists have a good handle on what type of metamorphic cues are needed for coral settlement. I don’t want to talk too specifically about how I make the chips, but they are not magical in any way. As I mentioned, there is plenty of literature out there (especially from Australia where they have been settling larvae and planulae since the 80’s) that I use to form the substrates for larvae settlement. Crustose coralline algae is one particular type of metamorphic inducer that works great for Acropora, however, ceramic tiles that have been soaking in seawater for a few weeks can work just as well. P. dams will settle on most anything that has a bio-film. As a matter of fact, I have recently switched to ceramic chips for the settlement of P. dam. They are cheap, sturdy, and work just fine. I will be talking a bit about the wide range of settlement cues for P. dam as a challenge at MACNA. A challenge? Yes, settling them isn’t the hard part; it’s how to get them to settle where you want them to. The challenge is also in the question of how you can do it on a commercial scale. For example, if you have 1000 planulae and throw those all into a big tub full of chips that contain metamorphic inducers you might get 90% of them to settle. That would be fantastic results, however, what if they all settle on three chips? Then you would have three corals for sale within the industry. From these examples, you can see the expertise is not in how to make them spawn or settle, it is how set up the commercial operation so that it is competitive (in terms of numbers) with other farms or can be self supported.

Colony morphology is subjective. I try and raise them to match the sizes of the average fragment that is market ready. Right now, I am shooting for sizes around the 2-3 inch diameter range. This may be on the smallish size, but since this is a new type of endeavor, this is one area where experience in the marketplace will define it for me. I can send you photos of some types of morphology that I think would be attractive in the industry. The idea is to create corals that are similar to those out on the natural reef. A linear, un-branched Acropora fragment is not as natural looking as a whole colony. With corals grown from larvae, you get the whole colony because the coral is genetically programmed to grow that way. A fragment will eventually branch, but its overall morphology will still be ‘awkward’. I have a great photo of Porites cylindrica which demonstrates this idea perfectly. Please let me know (anyone out there) and I will send it.

Planulae from brooded corals are usually replete with zooxanthellae they received from their parent. Larvae that are produced from spawned gametes require zooxanthellae once they settle and metamorphose. I believe (and I will be talking about this at MACNA) that this is a good reason why brooded corals are good candidates for this type of farming. With that being said, I will be running a zooxanthellae inoculation experiment this summer. In the past, simply placing the new recruit in the open seawater system at the lab has been adequate for zoot uptake. Dr. Robert Richmond used to place large adult colonies of similar species in the tank to act as a donor for zooxanthellae. Both of these techniques are fine. For example, last season 90 out of 110 individual Acropora surculosa were able to acquire zooxanthellae using this technique. However, these techniques can be time consuming (i.e. it may take up to two weeks before the coral has acquired zooxanthellae). Last year, we lost what I believe to be unacceptable numbers of A. surculosa (for research and not for grow out) because they perished before they acquired zooxanthellae. Many of them that had acquired early on survived. This is what prompted the call for the experiment on inoculating zooxanthellae. I will borrow some of the techniques from Tridacna clam farmers and see if they are viable for corals as well. Further, I have a few resources in the form of scientists who are true zooxanthellae experts. They have outlined a good technique that they use to isolate zooxanthellae for inoculating corals.

I realize I may not have a checklist of procedures here and I strongly recommend you look out for future issues of Advanced Aquarist Online as I hope to offer an article on why these questions are not easy to answer yet. I must admit that I am trying to hold back on publishing some of my techniques until I can prove their effectiveness.

I can tell you this; my success is due to the careful observations on the habitat that juvenile corals thrive in. This is the key to success. Think of how far we have come in maintaining adult corals in captivity. Much of the success is due to aquarists who spent years observing their corals and writing about them.

Finally, I am familiar with Dirk’s work. Although our goals are different, it’s nice to see other people interested in pursuing this form of coral propagation.
 
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Anonymous

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I too, enjoyed your article in this month's AAOLM.

I have a large colony of P. Damicornis that recently started reporducing in my tank. I started a thread about it here a few months ago, and there was some debate over whether it was sexual reproduction or polyp bail-out.

Here is a picture of some of the small colonies in one section of the tank. Most of the new small colonies are on the substrate, which is a faux sandbed. There as some colonies on the live rock as well, but not near as many as are on the bottom.

Louey
 

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CoralfarmGuam

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Hi Louey,

I can see why there is a debate. From the photos it is hard to tell the origin of the little colonies. Do you notice any colonies on vertical surfaces, especially the tank glass? Are there any other colonies of P. dam in your tank?
 
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Anonymous

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There are some small colonies on the rock that is pretty close to being verticle. Most are on the bottom or on horizontal pieces of rock. None are on the glass.

I also have a pink colony of P. Dam. I bought it at the same time that I bought the green one, but until recently it was in a poor location and never grew like the green one.

Louey
 

CoralfarmGuam

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Hi Louey,

You mentioned a faux sand bed. Is there any loose sand on the botoom? If so, how deep? Sorry for all of the questions but maybe we can figure this out by looking at what the planulae prefer to settle on in relation to what you are seeing in your tank. For example, planulae really do not like to settle on sandy substrate. If you have a moderate water flow on teh P. dam, I might expect some of the planulae to end up in other places in your tank, especially on glass (which they really like) or on substrates where they are in a vertical orientation (which they also like). However, this may still not help us in the long run. The only real way is to observe a brooding session. Unlike spawners who release all of the gametes at one shot, P. dams dribble out planulae over the course of the evening. It may not be as exciting to watch or document since they are capable of starting to release at 10:00 pm and go until sunrise. The good news is, if you see it at 10:00pm you can call it solved and go to bed :). If you have a cue (such as a moon lamp) that you have been using, that will help narrow down the days. Look for planulae 3-9 days after new moon. On Guam, the big nights are the 4th and 5th nights. It sounds like you have a very healthy reef with happy critters, especially if they are reproducing!!
 
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Anonymous

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I faux sandbed is marine starboard with a heavy grain of sand glued to the board. It's a high flow tank. Two tunze 6200's provide a lot of flow.

The Tunze Multicontroller comes with a moon light feature. This moon light is mounted almost directly above the mother colony of P. Dams.

I don't think there is anyway for me to know what part of the lunar cycle the Moon light is in. There are no settings or anything like that.

I hope it doesn't happen again to be honest. My tank will already be overrun with P. Dams.
 

CoralfarmGuam

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Hi Louey

I understand about not wanting the proliferation of P. dam all over your tank! Now that you mentioned you moonlight, I am more confident about the planulae rather than the polyp bailout. There is an easy solution to prevent your colony from going off again…turn off the moonlight. While there is little evidence that moonlight adds to the health and growth of captive reef organisms, there is a ton of evidence that moonlight gives the animals a sense of seasonality and lunar periodicity. This will surely cause some of your inhabitants to reproduce, especially if they have the excess resources (in terms of food, light etc.) I acknowledge that moonlight allows you to better replicate the natural reef environment, however, a consequence (positive for some, negative for others) is that you get critters in the tank simply doing what they would be doing in the natural environment...reproducing. Hope this helps.
 
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Anonymous

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I think I will ditch the moonlite.

My T. Gigas could really make a mess of things if it started spawning.

This will surely cause some of your inhabitants to reproduce, especially if they have the excess resources (in terms of food, light etc.)

I don't think my tank gets an excess of food, but it does have 4 - 400W MH's above it. For a 25" deep tank, that may be plenty. And my P. Dams is located at the top of the tank no more than 12" from a bulb.

Thanks for the advice!

Louey
 

delbeek

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You mentioned two possible avenues Louey, sexual reproduction and polyp bail-out, but neglected a third, more likely one ... asexual planulae production. Pocillopora damicornis is well known as a "self-planulator" in that it can produce planulae asexually pretty much year-round. They will also do so when stressed. There has been a LOT published on this in both the scientific and hobbyist literature such as in The Reef Aquarium volume 1, 1994.

I feel pretty confident in saying that this is the most likely source of your colonies in your tank. :)

Aloha!
JCD
 
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Anonymous

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Charles Delbeek wrote:

You mentioned two possible avenues Louey, sexual reproduction and polyp bail-out, but neglected a third, more likely one ... asexual planulae production. Pocillopora damicornis is well known as a "self-planulator" in that it can produce planulae asexually pretty much year-round. They will also do so when stressed. There has been a LOT published on this in both the scientific and hobbyist literature such as in The Reef Aquarium volume 1, 1994.

I feel pretty confident in saying that this is the most likely source of your colonies in your tank.

Aloha!
JCD

Interesting. I don't recall reading about asexual planulae production in TRA V1. But it has been about 5 years since I read that book. Good book (and series) BTW. ;)

I have not noticed any more new colonies sprouting up since my last post.

As mentioned above, I have turned off the moonlight feature on my Tunze Controller. The little moonlight was mounted directly above the mother colony of P. Dams. I don't know if it stopped reproducing because of this change or if it is just simply coincidence.


Louey
 

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