Crapoliscious

[Anonymous]

Well, whilst cleaning my tank today I knoticed that the silicone is stripping on one corner. It is a used tank, and I am now suspect that teh seals were not that well done lol. Is there anyway to repair without dismantling the tank or am I just in a bad way. I was kind of considering a new tank anyway, but not this early in the game. If so I am considering a cube. What is the max depth that my 2 250W HQI are good for?

 

[Anonymous]

I wouldn't worry about the silicone until it starts leaking. I won't be any harder to fix later than it is now. New silicone doesn't bond to old silicone, so your fix isn't going to be easy.

I noticed a chip in one of the corners in my 150G sump about 6 months after it was running it. Must have damaged it during the install. Had I seen it then, I probably would have scaped the whole thing. No leaks. It'll probably last forever.

Louey

 

[Anonymous]

I have noticed my silicon falling apart for lack of better terms. It seems to be coming off when I clean the glass. Almost as if it were black algae. it has been doing this for a few months, but today I noticed a definite bare spot on it.

 

[Anonymous]

8O Oh man I'd have to think about scapping it out before you wake up one morning and figure out the silicone failed!

 

[Len]

Is this silicone the excess that lines the right angles? If that's what's coming off, I wouldn't worry about it too much. That thin excess provides little structural advantage anyhow. If the silicone is coming off the actual seals between the glass, then you've got something to worry about.

 

[Len]

BTW, 2 x 250W will do a 24" deep tank just fine. I'd stick with 48" width. A 120 gallon (48x24x24) is a nice size for that light.

 

[Anonymous]

Right now it is just the excess. However it is getting somewhat close to the glass joint. Like I said, I was kind of wanting to upgrade anyhow lol. How deep do you think the 2 250W HQI MH will penetrate with the phoenix 14s?

 

[bleedingthought]

I have a couple of chips in one of my FW tanks (corners) and it hasn't leaked in about 8 years. I would wait also but it is a gamble. Or you could drain the water until it's under the bare spot (hopefully, it's towards the top ) and patch it without stripping the rest and wait 24 hours to cure and fill it back up just for good measure! But keep in mind that what keeps the tank water tight is that small bead of silicone between the two pieces of glass and not the excess that is visible - assuming the tank was well built, of course.

P.S. Range, are you using a razor blade to clean around the silicone or it's just coming apart from the seam?

 

[Len]

Ranger, the sort of peeling/flaking you're seeing has happened to me many times without incidence. My last 120G had no excess silicone at the joints after a couple years, and it lasted 10 years with no problem. IMHO, it's really nothing to worry too much about.

 

[Anonymous]

Ranger, the sort of peeling/flaking you're seeing has happened to me many times without incidence. My last 120G had no excess silicone at the joints after a couple years, and it lasted 10 years with no problem. IMHO, it's really nothing to worry too much about.

Yes it is...if that's the excuse he needs to get a bigger/better/non-crapolicious tank

Otherwise, I'm sure you're right :lol:

 

[Len]

Um, Tracy is right as always. Must get new tank NOW!

 

[Anonymous]

Um, Tracy is right as always. Must get new tank NOW!

 

[Anonymous]

Finally the answer I was looking for. Thank you very much.



:lol:

 

[Chubosco]

I had stopped in the lfs and suddenly they had all kinds of neat stuff. I asked where it came from and the guy said a customer had a 220 that burst. The tank was over 16 years old. That's when I thought I would never buy a large used tank. The age may not have had anything to do with the bursting but such pressure over time must affect the seals or structure in my mind. Does it???