Best way to purify/de-humidify air in fish tank room...

[Rob Top]

The exposer of the vent depends on the ceiling type. My fishroom is pretty much a chop shop, and equipment for the 220. A utilitaian look was what I wanted so I have no ceiling and the vent work does between the joists. If you have a drop ceiling you can easily hide it up there. Yes it would require a hole in the wall, and if you put a dryer vent cover on the outside you will limit the amount of air coming in during the off months. That along with a baffled piece of duct work should be all you need.

 

[trido]

Here is the detailed break down of my ventilation system.
MY bath fan is a NuTone QTRN110-A Rated at 110 CFM 9.0amps and 1.5 scones. 1.5 scones is relatively quiet in the world of bathfans. I cant hear it resonate through walls, cant hear it over the pumps, and frequently look out side at the vent to make sure its working. I'd say thats pretty quiet.
Unfortunately, I cant find the model # for my cooling stat. It is basicaly a reverse thermostat for a baseboard heater with the numbers reversed Ranging from 90-50 degrees. Here is another for reference. http://www.friesenelectric.com/Scripts/ ... roduct=342
AS for my fresh air intake. I used a fresh 100. http://www.thermastor.com/pdf/fresh.pdf AS you can see it says its only rated at 20CFM. But I would argue, My Bath fan also runs a 4" vent and pushes 110CFM. The Fresh 100 will likely keep up. If not, the underside of the door allows enough air to compensate.

If heating is not an issue in your tank room I would recommend the use of a humidistat instead of the cooling stat. Here are a few. http://www.buenisima.com/humidity/ I was looking for this when I came across the coolingstat. I like to talk to people so I went to my local supplier. If you need to get any detailed advice that i cant answer, go online to Laner electric, Freisen electric or greybar electric. Or head on down to your supplier. They know far more than me.