Russ wrote:
Must have been something in the water line. I replaced all the filters and the membrane and it worked fine. Made 120G's of water for my next water change. A few day later the carbon filter was completely clogged again. There was an orange stain at the top right where the water comes in. I replaced it again and made another 120G's with no problem.
It's weird that my other RO never had any problems.
Louey
Must have been something in the water line. I replaced all the filters and the membrane and it worked fine. Made 120G's of water for my next water change. A few day later the carbon filter was completely clogged again. There was an orange stain at the top right where the water comes in. I replaced it again and made another 120G's with no problem.
It's weird that my other RO never had any problems.
Louey
Damn. I just checked the pressure gauge on my RO and it is down to 28 PSI. It's been a week since it refilled my WC storage vessel, so it really hasn't made any water since them (maybe a 1/2 gallon of drinking water).
The PSI was 70 when the filters were all new (one week ago). The PSI is 50 on the second RO that hasn't had any problems.
Both RO's are fed from the same tap in the water line. I tapped the cold water pipe feeding my mop sink, then tee'd off to both RO's with 1/4" line. I installed john guest ball valves in both lines (FWIW).
This is weird.
Louey
The PSI was 70 when the filters were all new (one week ago). The PSI is 50 on the second RO that hasn't had any problems.
Both RO's are fed from the same tap in the water line. I tapped the cold water pipe feeding my mop sink, then tee'd off to both RO's with 1/4" line. I installed john guest ball valves in both lines (FWIW).
This is weird.
Louey
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What are the micron ratings on all your prefilters?
I believe the carbon filter was 0.6 microns (chlorine guzzler). The set of new filters I just ordered are the 5 micron ones (the work horse). But I think I still had one of the 0.6 carbon filters when I changed it (I could be wrong).
The sediment filters are 1 micron.
Louey
The sediment filters are 1 micron.
Louey
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You probably don't want to put a chlorine guzzler behind a 5 mic sediment filter. As you've seen - you essentially turn the carbon block into a sediment filter for sediment between 0.6 and 5 micron.
Russ
Russ
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Typically, one of these combos would work:
Option 1: 1 mic sed with 0.6 mic chlorine guzzler
or
Option 2: 1 micron sediment with 2 micron carbon ("The Sweetener")
or
Option 3: 5 mic sed with 5 mic carbon ("The Workhorse")
Because you've had trouble with sediment loads in the 1 micron range, I'd go for Option 3.
If that doesn't work, the next option might be to add another prefilter stage with a sediment filter in it, or to use a sediment filter that you can clean and re-use. These are more expensive but in the long run would save you money.
Let's cross that bridge if/when you come to it. You should probably make a habit of using a flush valve on your membrane.
Russ @ BFS
Option 1: 1 mic sed with 0.6 mic chlorine guzzler
or
Option 2: 1 micron sediment with 2 micron carbon ("The Sweetener")
or
Option 3: 5 mic sed with 5 mic carbon ("The Workhorse")
Because you've had trouble with sediment loads in the 1 micron range, I'd go for Option 3.
If that doesn't work, the next option might be to add another prefilter stage with a sediment filter in it, or to use a sediment filter that you can clean and re-use. These are more expensive but in the long run would save you money.
Let's cross that bridge if/when you come to it. You should probably make a habit of using a flush valve on your membrane.
Russ @ BFS
I'm also having problems with my RO/DI unit. Everything has been working great until recently. My ppm is 32 after DI, and I'm not producing ANY waste water. The unit is only six weeks old, and all pre-filters have just been replaced. My water that supplies the unit is warm, and I bet this is the culprit. Will warm water damage the membrane?
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Maximum operating temperature for a Filmtec membrane is 113 F. You'll get higher tds passage at warm temperature s (above 77 degrees F).
If you're not getting any waste water you have a problem - resolve it pronto or you'll ruin the membrane.
Do you have a mal-adjusted adjustable flow restrictor? Do you have a valve on the waste line that is closed? Do you have a flow restrictor that has closed up with scale? Something is plugging that line.
Your DI is exhausted and now probably doing more harm than good.
What is your tap water tds, and tds of the post RO (pre DI) water?
Russ @ BFS
If you're not getting any waste water you have a problem - resolve it pronto or you'll ruin the membrane.
Do you have a mal-adjusted adjustable flow restrictor? Do you have a valve on the waste line that is closed? Do you have a flow restrictor that has closed up with scale? Something is plugging that line.
Your DI is exhausted and now probably doing more harm than good.
What is your tap water tds, and tds of the post RO (pre DI) water?
Russ @ BFS
BFS wrote
No valve on waste line.
Do you have a valve on the waste line that is closed?
No valve on waste line.
Do you have a flow restrictor that has closed up with scale?
I took the waste line off of the membrane housing, and I can't see anything obviously wrong with waste line or flow resrtictor. Should I soak this in restictor in vinigar for a few minutes?
What is your tap water tds, and tds of the post RO (pre DI) water?
tap water tds=240. I don't have any way of reading post RO pre DI. I have an in-line meter that reads tap and final product water. I wish I purchased my unit from BFS and not kent.I have gotten much more help from you guys...thanks so much.
BFS wrote
I have gotten much more help from you guys than from Kent support...thanks so much.
My manual says that the pre-installed restrictor has no adustment and should not be removed or tampered with...lol
No valve on waste line.
I took the waste line off of the membrane housing, and I can't see anything obviously wrong with waste line or flow resrtictor. Should I soak this in restictor in vinigar for a few minutes?
tap water tds=240. I don't have any way of reading post RO pre DI. I have an in-line meter that reads tap and final product water. I wish I purchased my unit from BFS.
I have gotten much more help from you guys than from Kent support...thanks so much.
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I wish you bought it from Buckeye too!
We need to find out where the clog is.
To see if the flow restrictor is the problem, take it out of the system, reassemble the tubing, turn the system on, and see if you get waste water.
If you do, them we found the plug. You could try soaking it in a mild acid as you suggest, but it would be difficult to tell if you removed all the scale blocking flow. They are inexpensive so a new restrictor might be your best bet if it's plugged.
We need to find out where the clog is.
To see if the flow restrictor is the problem, take it out of the system, reassemble the tubing, turn the system on, and see if you get waste water.
If you do, them we found the plug. You could try soaking it in a mild acid as you suggest, but it would be difficult to tell if you removed all the scale blocking flow. They are inexpensive so a new restrictor might be your best bet if it's plugged.
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Sounds like you found the problem!
Russ
Russ
Hey Russ!
I just purchased a premium Ro unit from Buckeye. ( last one burned up)
I got it on Friday. It is a really well built unit. I do have a couple of questions though...
My water temp in the new house is much lower than it was the last time I had one of these units. Also, I think the water pressure is lower.
Will a flow restrictor help?
I thought the unit I was buying came with a flow restrictor, but when it arrived there was a flush valve, but only a piece of tubing where the restrictor should be. I re-read the website and it said it would be included at no extra cost. Should I have asked for one of these when ordering?
My production is low right now.
I have it hooked up to my washing machine cold . I think I am going to split off my hot water as well and "T" the two of them together into one line with ball valves to control each of the flows. Mixing the two of these until my feed water is around 90 degrees.
Good Idea?
As for the pressure, I installed a ball valve on the waste water line to create additional back pressure, this increased the pressure to 45lbs... still not at 50lbs.
I really don't want to install a pressure boosting pump.
Are there any other ideas?
I just purchased a premium Ro unit from Buckeye. ( last one burned up)
I got it on Friday. It is a really well built unit. I do have a couple of questions though...
My water temp in the new house is much lower than it was the last time I had one of these units. Also, I think the water pressure is lower.
Will a flow restrictor help?
I thought the unit I was buying came with a flow restrictor, but when it arrived there was a flush valve, but only a piece of tubing where the restrictor should be. I re-read the website and it said it would be included at no extra cost. Should I have asked for one of these when ordering?
My production is low right now.
I have it hooked up to my washing machine cold . I think I am going to split off my hot water as well and "T" the two of them together into one line with ball valves to control each of the flows. Mixing the two of these until my feed water is around 90 degrees.
Good Idea?
As for the pressure, I installed a ball valve on the waste water line to create additional back pressure, this increased the pressure to 45lbs... still not at 50lbs.
I really don't want to install a pressure boosting pump.
Are there any other ideas?
UPDATE 5/07/07:
I finally figured out why the one RO unit works fine and the other unit goes through filters and membranes really fast. I looked at the waste water drain line and found that it is running a full stream 24/7. Now that'll eat up some filters!
Now the thing I don't get: The flow restrictor doesn't appear defective, but water flows through it like a sieve. But I assume that the flow restrictor is the problem because what else could cause it to flow like that. Any ideas? Russ?
The flow restrictor is a capillary type.
Louey
I finally figured out why the one RO unit works fine and the other unit goes through filters and membranes really fast. I looked at the waste water drain line and found that it is running a full stream 24/7. Now that'll eat up some filters!
Now the thing I don't get: The flow restrictor doesn't appear defective, but water flows through it like a sieve. But I assume that the flow restrictor is the problem because what else could cause it to flow like that. Any ideas? Russ?
The flow restrictor is a capillary type.
Louey
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