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herpencounter

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Im going to make a sump for a 29 gall.
What is the mini size sump for a 29?
Im thinking of using a 20 long with a 230gph pump.
 
A

Anonymous

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You could use a 10, but a 20 would give you more room to put stuff and more length to disipate bubbles.
 

herpencounter

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Is 230 gph after head loss?

NO. If you can tell me that would be great idk how.

I already have a 20 long that’s why I say that.

I won’t have a skimmer in it. Im going to have lots of plants (but ill have room for one if I get one).
 

herpencounter

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Here ya go...
 

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mr_X

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what do you mean by head loss? do you mean the gph by the time it's made it up the tube, and out of the return?

if that's what you mean, then how would you measure that? i know every foot you lose some, but how do you measure bends in the hose?

here is somewhat of a guide for mag drives, but again..no acount for bends and such-
http://www.petsolutions.com/Mag-Drive-W ... 02515.aspx
 

mr_X

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about your diagram- do you plan to have mangrove in your sump along with macroalgae? i read that mangrove is more for "eye candy" than actual nitrate export. i understand that caulerpa and chaeto and such are much more effective.

about the phosban and carbon, you might leave some space for the pods in the 'fuge to get to the return. a simple mesh bag in the sump somewhere in a low flow area is fine.
 

bleedingthought

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The 20 gallon tank will work even better than the 10 gallon.

But you know what I did? I had the fuge on the left and the skimmer section on the right. The water is T-ed off into both and the return pump is in the middle. You might want to do that and have the chemical fitration on one side and the fuge on the opposite side and the return section in the middle. One thing to also keep in mind is that if you decide to go with a skimmer, you have to have enough room. So, plan accordingly. ;)
 

bleedingthought

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mr_X":1x24ak30 said:
what do you mean by head loss? do you mean the gph by the time it's made it up the tube, and out of the return?

if that's what you mean, then how would you measure that? i know every foot you lose some, but how do you measure bends in the hose?

here is somewhat of a guide for mag drives, but again..no acount for bends and such-
http://www.petsolutions.com/Mag-Drive-W ... 02515.aspx
Check this link out for the head loss: http://www.pondarama.com/html/friction_loss_charts.html
 

bleedingthought

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Three things: It's not as effective to run chemicals passively; Secondly, that last baffle before the return section should have a gap under it so that the water has to make its way under and the bubbles will (hopefully) stay at the top of the baffle; Also, you can make that drain section smaller so that you can make the fuge bigger. (I'd make it about 3 inches) ;)
 

bleedingthought

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Depending on where you have it passively, barely any water will go through it, X. So no, I don't it is as effective. ;) (P.S. I agree with you that there shouldn't be TOO MUCH flow through it, though)

Herpencounter, I meant to make the drain side smaller, not the return. :P You gotta remember that the smaller the pump side is, the more often you have to top-off because that's where the water level will go down. Well, unless you have ATO which then wouldn't matter. ;)
 

herpencounter

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you don't think it's effective to have a bag of activated carbon in the sump?

Iv read that wont to good to.


Herpencounter, I meant to make the drain side smaller, not the return. You gotta remember that the smaller the pump side is, the more often you have to top-off because that's where the water level will go down. Well, unless you have ATO which then wouldn't matter.

OK! I know that was wrong (but you know more :P ) I just miss read that.
 

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