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opticjim

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Hi
I have a 20 year old 125 gallon salt water with 5 fish all over 7 years old
2 tangs 1 angel fox face, and a very large brital star, anyway i believe it might be time to replace the 2-3 inches of coral on the bottom.
Can i vacumme out the coral over two - four water chages say every two weeks, then when the tank is clean (coral removed)can i replace with live sand? i typically do a 30 gallon change and could vacumme the coral out with a 3/4 inch hose.
Can the sealed bag of live sand be placed in the bottom of the tank then cut the bag open, not to create a sand storm? Leaving the fish in the tank?
Is this a good method or is there better?
Thanks in advance for some advice
Jim
 

mr_X

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that's what i did....the sand bag at the bottom, and slowly released it. i cut it open before i put it in the tank though.it still clouded up the water some, but not nearly as bad as if i would have dumped it in.
just make sure you wash the outside of the bag pretty good before you do that. you never know what kind of insecticide or chemicals were sprayed at the warehouse.
so, this tank had been running with the same substrate for 20 years? how often did you vacuum it?
 

opticjim

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Thanks good point on washing the bag!

i have been vacummimg it every water change, it comes out pretty nasty
my nitates are getting pretty high, any recomendatios on how much live sand for a 125 tank? also anyone know how long i can go with a bare bottom :?:
the amount of those red and black fire worms is amazing! they come out in the water change as well 8O
 

mr_X

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the bristleworms are good for your tank. they eat the gunk that settles at the bottom.
you can go bare bottom for ever if you like. is there live rock in the tank?
what are you using to hold your beneficial bacteria?
 

opticjim

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i have a sump filter with bio balls and a red devil protien skimmer
there is a bunch of live rock from a reef tank but it is more dead than live
i have 3 4 foot lights but not enought to support the rock
can you attach pictures to this post?
 

mr_X

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lighting has nothing to do with live rock. live rock can be kept in the dark forever and it will still hold bacteria.
yes, down below my post click "post reply" and you'll see an image browser button to upload photos.

the nitrate issue could be from the bio balls, and not the substrate. if you are vacuuming it regularly, i don't see how it could be the cc.
some say that using bio balls in a wet/dry setup, and live rock in the display, might end up working against each other. depending on how much live rock you have in your display, you might be better off completely removing the bio balls.
 

opticjim

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i have tought of removing the bio balls but grew up old school with them
do i replace them with anything or is the sump left empty?
I do wash a third of them evry 6 months or so, big sump
should i take out a few at a time?

thanks for you advice there are very few fish stores in this area willing to give out any decent info, just buy more stuff to put in your tank

i also have the confetti stlye bio balls in my reef tank 37 g (3 years old)
i have never cleaned this section.
I will post a picture later today
 

mr_X

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hmm. how do you remove them? i haven't the faintest idea. i guess all at once would be as good as any other way.
how much live rock do you think you have in the display?
you could leave the sump empty, or put more live rock in it. my sump holds live rock and macroalgae(refugium style)
just make sure you have enough live rock in your tank to support it. i don't want to tell you to remove the bio balls if you have 15 pounds of rock in a 125 gallon tank.

btw, if that rock has been in your tank for years, it's alive.
 

opticjim

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how does one estimate the amount of live rock?
i like the idea of rock in the sump what is the other item you keep in there?
 

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mr_X

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i don't know, it's really hard to tell.
meanwhile, i keep a refugium in my sump. click on my build thread under my signature. it's macroalgae, and a little light over it. macroalgae absorb nasties in the water as well. part of biological filtration.
 
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Hm, few things to address here.

First, your plan on how to remove the cc and add the live sand is good.

Second, if you've got a lot of bristleworms then you've got the explanation for a high(er) nitrate level. They won't exist sans detritus, and the more detritus you have the more bristleworms you'll have. However! They consume the detritus, which would otherwise decompose and add to the load the nitrifying bacteria would have to handle (of course, you would grow sufficient populations to consume available food, just like lemmings).

Third, BioBalls are simply a substrate for nitrifying bacteria to reside. You MUST have nitrifying bacteria, otherwise, how would ammonia (nitrognenous waste) be oxidized? You must have sufficient surface area that will not eventually be compacted, either. They have their purpose, it's just that there are other ways of doing this.

If you really want to remove them then you must make sure you have another substrate for nitrifying bacteria, or another means by which to handle elimination (or conversion) of nitrogenous wastes. Live rock will accomplish this, as will frequent water changes.

It appears that you have very little live rock in the tank. A very general "rule" of thumb is about 2-3lbs. of good quality live rock per gallon of tank volume.
 

opticjim

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ok agreed not too much live rock, now i have a big sump so are bio balls the best media and if not what does belong in there. I am thinking to remove small amounts of balls each week and replace with ??. If i use rock do i submerge it of does or water drip over it? also is the large sponge filter I have neccasarry, I have been told the protien skimmer will take care of all of this ( not sure about that) do you use and other media in your tank? charcol?, denitrate,?purigen? I have use all of these but not sure of there effectiveness

I am also runnig a phosban filter from ? 3 fishes or something it is hidden from the picture behind the center door

The wierd part is this tank has been really solid for 5 years or so no dead fish

I appreciate any sugestions
Jim
 

mr_X

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if you are removing the bio balls, then i'd replace them with live rock rubble. submerged is best.
if in fact there's not enough live rock in your tank to sustain enough denitrifying bacteria, then i'd add more.
you can leave the large sponge filter, but i'd wash it out regularly. atleast once a week. i use filter socks in my sump, and they clog up in just 3 days, and need to be changed out.
i don't use any other media, but many do. if you feel they may be a waste of money, stop using them and test your water. if there is a difference, then you know they are helping.
 
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opticjim":9ofjseri said:
ok agreed not too much live rock, now i have a big sump so are bio balls the best media and if not what does belong in there.

If I have learned anything in the 20+ years I've been involved in the aquarium hobby/trade, it's this -- If it ain't broke, DON'T fix it!

I am thinking to remove small amounts of balls each week and replace with ??.

Bioballs were the choice of the day because they don't allow a lot of detritus to build up, offered a large surface area for nitrifying bacteria to reside, and allowed a large water surface area which allows for excellent oxygen/carbon dioxide exchange. This exchange only occurs at water surfaces, making surface agitation of your tank and sump important for the best O2 saturation possible.

You were talking about replacing the crushed coral with live sand, that would do it, as would the addition of live rock, I would add about 1lb./gallon at this point. (Sorry, had to edit to add that bit.)

If i use rock do i submerge it of does or water drip over it?

Put the rock in any container fully submerged. Whether in the sump or in the tank itself doesn't really matter, although if nice looking rock it could make for nice aquascaping.

also is the large sponge filter I have neccasarry, I have been told the protien skimmer will take care of all of this ( not sure about that)

A protein skimmer, also known as foam fractionation, cannot really adequately accomplish mechanical filtration. The sponge filter does two things -- mechanical filtration (removal of particulates), and also serves as a residence for the aforementioned nitrifying bacteria. Passing the water through or over some sort of mechanical filtration is a good idea for your particular set-up, in my experience.

do you use and other media in your tank? charcol?, denitrate,?purigen? I have use all of these but not sure of there effectiveness. I am also runnig a phosban filter from ?

It really depends on your tank, there are really too many variables. All the filtrants you mention are chemical filtrants. If you need, for instance, something like "denitrate" (a product I'm not familiar with), then I would surmise you have high nitrate levels. This can be addressed in many ways; the addition and good utilization of a refugium where you would place macroalgae that would then uptake nitrate, as well as provide a home for the various "pods" (pick a pod, iso, arthro, cope, etcetera) that many fish like and others rely upon for nutrition would be my first and favorite choice.

Foam fractionation, assuming your skimmer is working well, is another means by which one can control nitrate level.

It also matters what quality your source water (assuming you mix your saltwater and don't use natural seawater), if it's already high in nitrate then you're going to be hard pressed to correct such a problem by water changes. (Many municipalities allow nitrate levels as high as 40ppm, for instance.) Phosphorous would be another problem if it is present in your source water that one might use a product such as Phosban to help control.

3 fishes or something it is hidden from the picture behind the center door

I don't know what that means or what the issue is.

The wierd part is this tank has been really solid for 5 years or so no dead fish

That's not weird, it means that the system is stable and meets the fishes' needs. If they're not diseased and are growing, then it means that they're thriving. In other words, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Or, at the very least, be very careful about what changes you make.

At this point, looking at the tank and knowing that you're not experiencing deaths or illness, I say maybe add some live rock to the tank. If the tank's nitrate level is high or you're seeing stuff like lateral line disease, then there are indeed husbandry issues that should be addressed. Water changes tend to be a good thing, as long as the mix water is well aged and aerated.

Just remember that by removing the Bioballs you're removing THE most important element of your filtration -- biological (a.k.a. nitrifying) filtration. That is the conversion (oxidation) of ammonia (a.k.a. nitrogenous wastes) into less toxic substances, first nitrite (which is still rather toxic), then to nitrate (less toxic, but can be in high enough concentrations). The final piece is complete removal of nitrate, but this is only accomplished biologically via DEnitrification and that is an anaerobic process (it occurs deep within live rock, for instance, which is why Mr. X keeps mentioning it).

Is this stuff making sense for you? If not, there is a bit of recommended reading you might wish to avail yourself of in order to help understand the process. However, that being said, some of the best wet thumbs I've ever known never read a thing.

Go slowly, whatever you do, ok? I'd hate for you to end up killing off your fish for making changes all these people might insist you have to do simply because it is current conventional wisdom.
 

opticjim

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wow thanks
i am getting a much clearer picture of what to do
The only thing i am not fimialar with is a
refugium
and where to get one and what to put in it microalgee, is this a new thing or is there a thread to cath me up on this
I have a 37 gallon reef tank as well and this sounds like a good idea
It is very stable also but need s some updates

As per water changes I have a reef master de ionings r/o filter in witch i filter my tap water, buffer it add reef salt let it circlate in a clean trash can for a couple of day before i swap out 30 g
so i should be ok there
Thanks agian
Jim
 

opticjim

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well 30 gallon water change got rid of about 1/5 of the crushed coral
I am thinking of changing out water every 3 days or so and take out more coral
Is this too often?
 
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Anonymous

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No.. just don't take out too much of the substrate, and TEST a day after each time.

There is a LOT to know about refugiums, use the search feature here to start. However, I will also suggest going onto wetwebmedia.com and searching on refugium using their Google search bar (be sure to check "search wwm"), and select "cached" so it highlights your search terms. Yes, macroalgaes are what you want to put in the 'fuge, and it can be devised from almost anything that will hold water, even a Rubbermaid tub.

Are you adding the live sand at the same time? If you don't, the live bacteria will just die. If you don't want it mixed at all with the coral, then get thee some ladies pantyhose and put the sand in there, then when you're ready to set it free just cut a hole et voila.

Oh, had to insert shameless book plug --- If you can find it, I suggest getting "The Natural Marine Aquarium--Reef Invertebrates" by Bob Fenner and Anthony Calfo. It pretty much speaks specifically to setting things up using the refugium system. 8)
 

opticjim

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on the replacing crushed coral
my advice is conflicting my plan was to vaccume it all out then put in live sand, should i vacumme half then add sand then the other half
should the sand intergrate with the 20 year old coral?
I pulled out about 1/5 with a 30g water and tank reading are the same as always 0 nitrite 300 total alkalinity and 200 + nitrate and ph 8.4 salinity 1.0235
oh how much live sand do you think for a 125 gallon tank?
currently I am going to finish this before dealing with the bio balls, i ussally do one thing at a time

also i am get some advice not to change the system
any more ideas
 

opticjim

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Hi

:D after 5 water changes all the chrushed coral gone

today in the last change i vacummed a large piece of bowl rock
Oh my god never seen so many brisle (fire?) worms hundreds
some as big as 2 inches in big balls :twisted:
I pulled the rock it was coated 100's of worms 8O
sort of makes sence this was inder my feeding tube for 18 years
i have put in 2 bags of live sand , washed and placed bag on bottom then cut open, very litlle clouds and gone in 2 hours

so back to my question, :idea:
do i put in 6 bags of sand (120 lbs) for a 125 tank or do i go for a certain depth of sand, which is better thick or thin? right now i have both bags on left of tank depth about 2 inches, should i thin it out?

Thaks for your opion!
Jim
 

mr_X

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i say 2 inches is a good depth. some utilize a deep sand bed as a form of filtration. there's no need for this if your tank is going fine. use what you think looks good.
 

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