• Why not take a moment to introduce yourself to our members?

A

Anonymous

Guest
I have a 4 stage 50gph system... how often do these need to be changed? I think I'm due :D

I think there are different micron levels too, which one should I get?

thanks
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
The only way to really know if they need to be changed is if you have a TDS(Total Dissolved Solids) meter.The general rule for the avaverage home water supply is about one year to eighteen months for the RO membrane and up to 6 months for the carbon block filter. The sediment prefilter can be up to 6 months as well, however you can usually see that they need changing. If you have noticed a significant drop in the clean water production then that is also a sign that the filter(s) need replacing.

The smaller the micron, the smaller the partical it stops. Hence, the next membrane has less to removed because it was stopped by the previous one.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
I agree with the TDS part, can't say I agree with the lifespan though as it can vary greatly from person to person.

Some things to invest in however to help you know, inline pressure gauge, have one right at the input and one right after your prefilters (sediment, carbon) if you see a difference in pressure something is clogging your filters, time to change them.

Clear housings are a great way to tell if your sediment filter needs changing, they can be a bit pricy however.

As to the RO membrane, test your water going in (TDS) and coming out of the membrane, I believe the rejection rate should be on the order of 95%, I would change once it drops to 80-85%
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
thanks guys... i'm probably due for a change then. I think the pressure gauge is a good idea too. cheers
 

qfrisco

New Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I've read that the sediment and carbon filters do nothing to reduce your TDS, so you won't notice an increase in TDS when those filters are ready to be changed. I think it's best to stick to a schedule and replace them regularly. I change them every 6 months. Fortunately, they're not expensive.

As for micron sizes, I've also read that it's good to progress as follows:

1st stage: 10 micron sediment filter
2nd stage: 5 micron carbon block filter
3rd stage: 1 micron carbon block filter

airwaterice.com has a 3-pack that is $19.99 for the 10, 5, and 1 micron filters (for 10" housing).
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
yes, the membrane is interchaneable for the EO housing. However, the catch is that you need a matching restrictor to go with the membrane.
 
Location
On the Internet
Rating - 50%
1   1   0
A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the useable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. The Matrikx+1 (“Chlorine Guzzler”) for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called prefilters) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see its still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water (aka “permeate”), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependant upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm to 3 ppm, 5 ppm, and higher, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker then would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal!

Russ
 

Sponsor Reefs

We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.

Click here to sponsor $10:


Top