A
Anonymous
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jamesw":l499k4vk said:
with water removed though. The car wax/polish method (Novus)is not reef safe by any means.
with water removed though. The car wax/polish method (Novus)is not reef safe by any means.
Don't feel too bad when you started with the 200 grit. It really looks like you seriously f*k up the tank when you just started to sand. As you go down to a higher grit, it will turn to frosty/hazy. You only see the fruit of you labor after you use the polishing compound. It is important that you don't skip step. It can be disappointing to see a slight mark on the panel after you polished that should be taken care of when you were using the sandpaper 5 steps ago. When that happens, you either say forget it, I can live with that, or you go back 5 steps, and redo the remaining steps.
I spend like 6 hours, if not more, on my 150 gal tank on getting rid of the scratch marks. I used a orbit sander with a micromesh attachment to help out with most of the sanding.
I spend like 6 hours, if not more, on my 150 gal tank on getting rid of the scratch marks. I used a orbit sander with a micromesh attachment to help out with most of the sanding.
Hi all,
New member here, first post.
I have doing the marine aquarium thing for 3 years now. have allways maintained as many as two glass tanks (no sump,alot
of water changes.)
This year I got a good buy on a 70 gallon acrylic (used) tank someone didn't want anymore.
After three months of reconditioning all from cabinet redo,and all supporting features, water was added,and all
proper measures too maintain a liveable envireoment were achieved.
After 3 months of having added all living residents with success, a new concern has risen.
First some technicals: design is 6 sided flat back,70 gallons. closed loop flowing 982 gph,through a 25 gallon sump.
Two powerheads both pushing 800 gph are in proper position too achieve good flow around all living coral,and live rock.
The design of tank has a formed bend not a fused corner as on all other joints.
Close inspection off formed bends shows internal cracks(small) .
I do not know how old this tank is, but it was definantly ignored.
There is no warranty,although the manufacturer has been helpful with advice to me to set this unit up properly.
My concern is do I have to be concerned about anything more than visible cracks?
Such as leakage from structure failure.I have zero experience with acrylic.
By the way I did my share of surface polishing to eliminate scratches on tank surface.
Elbow grease is the way on all successful marine tank endeavors.
James T.
New member here, first post.
I have doing the marine aquarium thing for 3 years now. have allways maintained as many as two glass tanks (no sump,alot
of water changes.)
This year I got a good buy on a 70 gallon acrylic (used) tank someone didn't want anymore.
After three months of reconditioning all from cabinet redo,and all supporting features, water was added,and all
proper measures too maintain a liveable envireoment were achieved.
After 3 months of having added all living residents with success, a new concern has risen.
First some technicals: design is 6 sided flat back,70 gallons. closed loop flowing 982 gph,through a 25 gallon sump.
Two powerheads both pushing 800 gph are in proper position too achieve good flow around all living coral,and live rock.
The design of tank has a formed bend not a fused corner as on all other joints.
Close inspection off formed bends shows internal cracks(small) .
I do not know how old this tank is, but it was definantly ignored.
There is no warranty,although the manufacturer has been helpful with advice to me to set this unit up properly.
My concern is do I have to be concerned about anything more than visible cracks?
Such as leakage from structure failure.I have zero experience with acrylic.
By the way I did my share of surface polishing to eliminate scratches on tank surface.
Elbow grease is the way on all successful marine tank endeavors.
James T.
Sound like "crazing" to me. Without any pic, I can't tell. I guess I just say it is "normal" for old tank to develop some minor crazing, and in most cases, they are just cosmetic, nothing structural to worry about if they are shallow ones. It is very difficult to tell without actually seeing the tank, and it is very difficult to photograph.
Hello again,
Here are pics of what you refered to as "crazing".
Is this what it is?
The manufac. told me when they saw the pics, that it looked
like mineral deposits from coraline a. growth sometime in the past.
This is what the tank looked like when I started the project this summer of 2009.
I soaked the inside surfaces where blemished in pure vinegar for a week on each surface
and was not able to eliminate the snowflake pattern. I polished the inside,and outside before finalizing.
I'll post later pics of the current status.
James
Here are pics of what you refered to as "crazing".
Is this what it is?
The manufac. told me when they saw the pics, that it looked
like mineral deposits from coraline a. growth sometime in the past.
This is what the tank looked like when I started the project this summer of 2009.
I soaked the inside surfaces where blemished in pure vinegar for a week on each surface
and was not able to eliminate the snowflake pattern. I polished the inside,and outside before finalizing.
I'll post later pics of the current status.
James
How can you tell what brand he has from his post? (machinist's) I also didn't read anything about tank magnets, just that he bought the tank, set it up and now sees these cracks (which sound to me like crazing).GreshamH":qo4eomec said:
Want somma what I'm smokin'? :lol:
James, it looks as though that tank has seen some wear. You said it's already set up, yes? If not I would have suggested going at the viewing panes with a polish, it does appear that the wear is on the inside, and yes, it does also appear that it's from coralline encrustation.
Now, for cracks that fit tightly together, if that's what you're worried about, I have a personal recipe that I've used to great success with acrylic tanks and ABS motorcycle fenders (although it does make the ABS plastic smoke, but that part is actually a lot of fun).
Cyanoacrylate (Superglue) and acrylic nail catalyst. Apply the glue, having ready something to apply just a DROP of the catalyst. It's best not to let the glue come up over the surface of whatever it is you're repairing as once you apply the catalyst and it reacts it becomes hazy and is just about impossible to get off. But I had an acrylic tank that I used for years after repairing it with this method.
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