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Anonymous

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seamaiden":2zsrq9v1 said:
Can you visualize an intake? Visualize the box (usually acrylic) that takes up a corner, side, or is even in the middle of the tank (depending on how it's plumbed). Personally I'd have the outlet coming up over the edge of the tank and down into the overflow box, to the bottom, leaving about 2".

Ha! Found a good one. Gut this internal overflow, get rid of the jets (because you don't need 'em going in this direction), and there ya go.

Excellent, that's what I was thinking.

But hang on, how does this work with the water also leaving via the same route? Or does this assume two separate columns?
 
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Dang. That would be too much real estate in a smallish tank. I think I may have to look at other options. :(
 

bfessler

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Hi Tom,

Back to the spray-bar idea. If you painted the back glass black or blue or whatever you could conceal the spray-bar behind a piece of acrylic the same color as the background. If you positioned the lower spray-bar low in the tank as you mentioned the acrylic sheet would conceal any parts of the spray-bar that are not covered by the rock. Just make the acrylic shield a couple inches larger than the spray-bar diameter. Are you familiar with working with acrylic? If you weld a couple tabs onto the back of the shield and drill them the same size as the spray-bar you could pass the spray-bar through the tabs which would hold the shield in position and conceal the spray-bar at the same time.
 
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seamaiden":l1drhobm said:
Either I've been foed, or I'm living in a dream world.

No, I just don't read your posts. :D

Sorry, but I didn't realize this one was 3 (and now 4!) pages....only read the first page before replying. :oops: :lol:
 
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seamaiden":2jioukg8 said:
Separate columns.

You could always divide the column, and there's no reason why the return needs to use the entire vertical space. You can do it with a little fist sized piece of plumbing that could be concealed quite easily.

This is a Stockman standpipe.
http://www.randystacye.com/images/durso ... ptions.gif

Usually it drains water. Flip it upside down, remove the airhole valve-y thing, feed water to it via the smaller pipe, and voila, nice gentle flow dispersed over a wide diameter.
 
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Dammit, my head's hurting now. I don't think I'm cut out for anything but off the shelf... :(
 
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Hmm. This could work...

kurokan1.jpg


kurokan55.jpg


If I have a central overflow like this, it could combine well with a Nano Wavebox, plus having two returns like this would make the flow rather less extreme...
 
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Matt_":7agvbmhr said:
seamaiden":7agvbmhr said:
Separate columns.

You could always divide the column, and there's no reason why the return needs to use the entire vertical space. You can do it with a little fist sized piece of plumbing that could be concealed quite easily.

This is a Stockman standpipe.
http://www.randystacye.com/images/durso ... ptions.gif

Usually it drains water. Flip it upside down, remove the airhole valve-y thing, feed water to it via the smaller pipe, and voila, nice gentle flow dispersed over a wide diameter.

Hey, I like the look of that. Handy diagram to show to the makers as well when my Japanese fails. Thanks Matt!
 
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Just a hand sketch, but I think it get the point across. Excuse the handwriting.
 

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I can't see your picture, Mark.

Tom, spraybars are how I did it way back when. I'd aim them across the top of the tank, just under the surface. Additional powerheads gave me fairly decent movement. But then I saw how they did things at LBAOP, and there is something about the way a more diffused, yet still strong, flow can get the corals and everything to just expand and get so danged HAPPY. I think if you can sort out the overflow like Matt's talking about, you'd be most happy as well with the results.
 
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At work images get blocked so I had no idea it was to big. I'll resize it in the morning.
 
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seamaiden":3qf1hrjg said:
I can't see your picture, Mark.

Tom, spraybars are how I did it way back when. I'd aim them across the top of the tank, just under the surface. Additional powerheads gave me fairly decent movement. But then I saw how they did things at LBAOP, and there is something about the way a more diffused, yet still strong, flow can get the corals and everything to just expand and get so danged HAPPY. I think if you can sort out the overflow like Matt's talking about, you'd be most happy as well with the results.

Thanks Marina. I'm going to have to scratch my head a fair amount, but it might be worth it. After all, I have plenty of time to work out how it would best work and how to ask for it in Japanese!
 
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Wazzel":29ucb5sc said:
At work images get blocked so I had no idea it was to big. I'll resize it in the morning.

Thanks Mark! Can't see it at work this morning for the same reason. Will have a look over the weekend (out tonight for our anniversary dinner).
 
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The Escaped Ape":37ktsiql said:
seamaiden":37ktsiql said:
I can't see your picture, Mark.

Tom, spraybars are how I did it way back when. I'd aim them across the top of the tank, just under the surface. Additional powerheads gave me fairly decent movement. But then I saw how they did things at LBAOP, and there is something about the way a more diffused, yet still strong, flow can get the corals and everything to just expand and get so danged HAPPY. I think if you can sort out the overflow like Matt's talking about, you'd be most happy as well with the results.

Thanks Marina. I'm going to have to scratch my head a fair amount, but it might be worth it. After all, I have plenty of time to work out how it would best work and how to ask for it in Japanese!

Consider blasting the spray nozzle of a garden hose straight at the bottom of a small bucket--watch it fill up and overflow. An input of high velocity/pressure (due to a small diameter) is converted to a low velocity/pressure output (due to a much larger diameter). You just have to make the water do a U-turn so it loses its momentum.
 
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Are you telling me to do that, or Tom? Because, I tend to do that, but it's cuz I forget I had the hose running in the bucket and the way it flows it doesn't make any noise until there's a cascade... never mind. :oops:
 
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I've got my head around the basic idea, thanks. I'm just trying to work out how to make it best work in a tank when I know of a tank maker that's open to customizing, but I'm not great at explaining things I have no idea how to build myself!

Oh, and Mark, apologies, but even at home I can't quite make out your sketch (the words in particular). If you were to explain what the captions say, that would help a great deal, thanks. :)
 
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What if you did it in a configuration not unlike, say, an angel food cake pan? Central column through which everything is plumbed?
 
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seamaiden":20fisaix said:
What if you did it in a configuration not unlike, say, an angel food cake pan? Central column through which everything is plumbed?

That's kind of the way I was heading, but not sure again how that would work with the return as you and Matt suggested and water overflowing in.

BTW, the angel food cake pan reference has gone over my head. :oops:
 
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The Escaped Ape":3k6dey3u said:
seamaiden":3k6dey3u said:
What if you did it in a configuration not unlike, say, an angel food cake pan? Central column through which everything is plumbed?

That's kind of the way I was heading, but not sure again how that would work with the return as you and Matt suggested and water overflowing in.

BTW, the angel food cake pan reference has gone over my head. :oops:

I would really try to avoid having the return dump out at the surface near the overflow at a low velocity. You'll get a short circuit where a relatively high percentage of the returning water will just go right back down to the sump. No bueno.

It is possible to have the water return down at the bottom of the tank through the central column, but it'd be tricky.

Can you elaborate on where you'd best like the overflow? Are any sides of this tank going to be concealed, say by placing it in a corner, or will it be viewable from 3 sides by placing it against a straight wall? Will the tank have an enclosed canopy, or be open-topped? Have you considered using an external weir box rather than an internal overflow?
 

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