My ballast that I have been running VHO on took a dump last night. I get the sense that T5's seem to be the popular route currently. I would like to get some input from the group on my options. I have a 6 foot 125, and 18" depth with a canopy. In research I find that they don't make many 6' T5 fixtures or bulbs. Would a 4' work? I guess I would just keep most of the corals near the center. I could also just replace the ballast and continue VHO but I kind of see this as an opportunity to upgrade my lighting. Would MH be an option? I'm not looking to spend a ton of money, don't like the price tag of MH bulbs or the extra heat. I do want to continue keeping SPS but I hear T5 are fine for that. Anyway starting to ramble here, just looking for some informed opinion. Thanks. Oh, how long can my tank be without light? I think a couple of days would be ok but if I can't get anything until the weekend will that be ok? Maybe it'll knock down some algae
New lighting?
- Thread starter Lars
- Start date
Your best bet is two sets of 36" T5s. That will cover your entire tank, but it does increase the cost significantly. You can go with 4' bulbs too, running them staggered to give you more coverage (the center area for higher light corals).
T5s will give you a bit more light, save you a little electricity, and more importantly the bulbs last longer then VHOs.
How tall is your canopy? Halides definitely are an option if you're upgrading. They add a little more heat, but comparable fluorescent lighting isn't that much cooler. You do need extra height clearance for halides though. I know halide bulbs are pricier, but keep you mind you only have to replace two. It's usually actually cheaper then replacing multiple fluorescent bulbs (definitely cheaper then VHOs since halides will burn longer before needing replacement).
Corals can go 48-72 hours without light before they start heading south. If you have some cheap fluorescent shop lights or can open up some windows, it'll help tie you over.
T5s will give you a bit more light, save you a little electricity, and more importantly the bulbs last longer then VHOs.
How tall is your canopy? Halides definitely are an option if you're upgrading. They add a little more heat, but comparable fluorescent lighting isn't that much cooler. You do need extra height clearance for halides though. I know halide bulbs are pricier, but keep you mind you only have to replace two. It's usually actually cheaper then replacing multiple fluorescent bulbs (definitely cheaper then VHOs since halides will burn longer before needing replacement).
Corals can go 48-72 hours without light before they start heading south. If you have some cheap fluorescent shop lights or can open up some windows, it'll help tie you over.
Good advice from Len there. I agree that T5s sound like your best option for an upgrade... too short a canopy for most halide fixtures. Look into some of the T5 retrofit kits, with individual reflectors (1 per bulb). I'd personally stagger 4-foot bulbs to have extra light in the center, but that choice depends on how many total bulbs you're planning on. A FTS might help us help you decide! :mrgreen:
Nice pics! 8)
I can now say with full confidence that you'd be very happy with T5s. If it's in the budget I'd spring for four four-foot bulbs overlapping in the center. Maybe something like these. I suggest this because I like the dramatic effect and more coral placement opportunities of having more light in the center. Some people like a more consistent look, so if that's you, then choose end-to-end 3-foot bulbs instead.
And be aware that the anemone may end up moving once the lighting changes.
I can now say with full confidence that you'd be very happy with T5s. If it's in the budget I'd spring for four four-foot bulbs overlapping in the center. Maybe something like these. I suggest this because I like the dramatic effect and more coral placement opportunities of having more light in the center. Some people like a more consistent look, so if that's you, then choose end-to-end 3-foot bulbs instead.
And be aware that the anemone may end up moving once the lighting changes.
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