Regenerating GFO

[Anonymous]

So I just began a little experimenting to try and regenerate exhausted GFO.

This is a 0.1M NaOH solution circulating through GFO. Got to be very careful covering the bucket and making sure to use gloves and eye protection at all times. The idea is that you let it sit in the solution for a few days and the PO4 ions are replaced on the GFO surface by OH ions, making it as good as new.

 

[Anonymous]

Here is the NaOH I used:

Available at Lowe's for $12.

30 grams in 2 gallons makes a 0.1M solution. Some people are playing around with 0.5M and 1M solutions too but I'd like to play it on the safe side.

The solution and especially dry lye powder are EXTREMELY caustic. If you plan on trying this at home, use gloves, use eye protection, and ensure children/animals cannot possibly get into it. The powder should be added to water, not water added to powder. Go slow and be careful. This stuff will chemically burn your skin or blind you and can get extremely hot when lots of powder comes into contact with a little water. It's not a bad idea to keep a jug of vinegar nearby in case you should spill some on you--vinegar will quickly neutralize the NaOH.

 

[fcmatt]

has anyone who is experimenting asked a chemist who knows this stuff on what
to do? as in any advice?

 

[Anonymous]

has anyone who is experimenting asked a chemist who knows this stuff on what
to do? as in any advice?

Randy Holmes Farley has been advising people on it. Many folks have done it repeatedly with no apparent problems. You just need to ensure you thoroughly rinse out the NaOH solution once you're done.

http://www.worldwideassetsllc.com/artic ... eijing.pdf

 

[Anonymous]

Interesting Matt 8)

 

[Len]

Nice

I use NaOH to kill aiptasia. It's caustic stuff, but it's perfectly safe when diluted (just sodium and hydroxide ions).

 

[Anonymous]

How much of a dilution Len? Do you then inject it?

 

[jamesw]

I've been toying w/ making a GFO canister like that using a typical under-sink housing. What do you use inside the housing to hold the GFO? Even better would be a link

Cheers
James

 

[Anonymous]

Nice

I use NaOH to kill aiptasia. It's caustic stuff, but it's perfectly safe when diluted (just sodium and hydroxide ions).

Len do you monitor your pH when you do this?

I get what you're saying--the two ions are not toxic in tiny amounts in a reef tank like a heavy metal or organic poison. But I'd handle it with care even when diluted, just like muriatic acid. The effects of the dry version are enough to scare me from messing with it. Even when mixed with water it is caustic enough to dissolve away grease/hair clogs in drains, so....

Back in college I accidentally spilled a single grain of phenol crystal on my arm for just a few seconds. The resulting wound and scab scared me straight from messing with caustic chemicals like this.

 

[Anonymous]

I've been toying w/ making a GFO canister like that using a typical under-sink housing. What do you use inside the housing to hold the GFO? Even better would be a link

Cheers
James

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/pro ... ilter-bags


It comes with a plastic cartridge to hold the media. So the upside is to regenerate you just swap the cartridge in and out. No messing with wet GFO which is almost always a mess and a PITA.

 

[Len]

How much of a dilution Len? Do you then inject it?

I use 50% NaOH (got from a lab NKT used to work for). I try to inject the aip, but I find it's not really necessary since NaOH will form a paste when it contacts with SW. I just turn off the pump and let this paste sit on the aip for a few minutes, totally melting it. 0.1ml is plenty to kill an aip

 

[Len]

Len do you monitor your pH when you do this?

I get what you're saying--the two ions are not toxic in tiny amounts in a reef tank like a heavy metal or organic poison. But I'd handle it with care even when diluted, just like muriatic acid. The effects of the dry version are enough to scare me from messing with it. Even when mixed with water it is caustic enough to dissolve away grease/hair clogs in drains, so....

Back in college I accidentally spilled a single grain of phenol crystal on my arm for just a few seconds. The resulting wound and scab scared me straight from messing with caustic chemicals like this.

My total water volume is 200+ gallons, so 1ml (at most) doesn't do much to budge my tank's pH (which is already high at about 8.35).
NKT was using NaOH to chemically burn off lab rat skin 8O I use it with extreme caution.

 

[Anonymous]

How much of a dilution Len? Do you then inject it?

I use 50% NaOH (got from a lab NKT used to work for). I try to inject the aip, but I find it's not really necessary since NaOH will form a paste when it contacts with SW. I just turn off the pump and let this paste sit on the aip for a few minutes, totally melting it. 0.1ml is plenty to kill an aip

any reaction with the plastic syringe or whatever you use to squirt the stuff?

 

[Anonymous]

NaOH shouldn't affect plastic. All the warnings that I've read indicate it attacks metals and organics (like say skin or fat), and that it should not be stored in glass containers. Everything I've read indicates that even in high concentrations it should be stored in plastic containers. Not sure how it affects rubber, but I should know in a couple days.

 

[Anonymous]

NaOH shouldn't affect plastic. All the warnings that I've read indicate it attacks metals and organics (like say skin or fat), and that it should not be stored in glass containers. Everything I've read indicates that even in high concentrations it should be stored in plastic containers. Not sure how it affects rubber, but I should know in a couple days.

Some one was just walking by me while reading this that I knew could answer it. He said most rubbers should be fine, although, if you give him a specific plastic or rubber he can tell you for sure.

 

[Anonymous]

Here is the NaOH I used:

Available at Lowe's for $12.

30 grams in 2 gallons makes a 0.1M solution. Some people are playing around with 0.5M and 1M solutions too but I'd like to play it on the safe side.

The solution and especially dry lye powder are EXTREMELY caustic. If you plan on trying this at home, use gloves, use eye protection, and ensure children/animals cannot possibly get into it. The powder should be added to water, not water added to powder. Go slow and be careful. This stuff will chemically burn your skin or blind you and can get extremely hot when lots of powder comes into contact with a little water. It's not a bad idea to keep a jug of vinegar nearby in case you should spill some on you--vinegar will quickly neutralize the NaOH.

http://www.roebic.com/pdf/hdcryMSDS.pdf

Section 7 – REACTIVITY DATA____________________
Stability – Stable
Conditions to Avoid – Materials listed below.
Incompatibility (Materials to Avoid) – Organic materials and concentrated acids may cause violent reactions;
caustic soda reacts with magnesium, aluminum, zinc (galvanized), tin, chromium, brass, and bronze generating
hydrogen, which is explosive. Also, caustic soda may react with various food sugars to generate carbon monoxide
(see Special Precautions Section 10).
Hazardous Decomposition Products – Reactions with various food sugars may form carbon monoxide.
Hazardous Polymerization – Will not occur.
Conditions to Avoid – N/A

Section 10 – SPECIAL PRECAUTIONS______________
Precautions to be taken during handling and storing:
When handling, wear safety goggles and face shield, rubber gloves, rubber boots, rubber apron, cotton or
polyester long sleeved shirt and plastic hardhat.
Wear NIOSH/MSHA approved respirator for protection where mists may be generated.
Never touch eyes or face with hands or gloves that may be contaminated with caustic soda.
Never enter caustic soda storage tank or container (tank truck or tank car), even if it appears to be empty.
Avoid contact with organic materials and concentrated acids – may cause violent reactions; caustic soda
reacts with magnesium, aluminum, zinc (galvanized), tin, chromium, brass and bronze, generating hydrogen,
which is explosive. Also, caustic soda may react with various sugars to generate carbon monoxide.

 

[Anonymous]

NaOH shouldn't affect plastic. All the warnings that I've read indicate it attacks metals and organics (like say skin or fat), and that it should not be stored in glass containers. Everything I've read indicates that even in high concentrations it should be stored in plastic containers. Not sure how it affects rubber, but I should know in a couple days.

Some one was just walking by me while reading this that I knew could answer it. He said most rubbers should be fine, although, if you give him a specific plastic or rubber he can tell you for sure.

Thanks Gresham!

The type I'd be most concerned about would be that found in the rubber gaskets in large PVC flanges and O-rings in true unions...likely Hayward or Asahi brands. If that person happens to know that I'll be super duper grateful!

 

[Anonymous]

Ah easy one to find out. he left for the day so tomorrow for sure

 

[jamesw]

Thanks to you guys I just bought some GFO and a reactor. Thanks a LOT!

Cheers
James

 

[Len]

How much of a dilution Len? Do you then inject it?

I use 50% NaOH (got from a lab NKT used to work for). I try to inject the aip, but I find it's not really necessary since NaOH will form a paste when it contacts with SW. I just turn off the pump and let this paste sit on the aip for a few minutes, totally melting it. 0.1ml is plenty to kill an aip

any reaction with the plastic syringe or whatever you use to squirt the stuff?

I've used the same syringe for 3 years