The Dream is Still Alive

[Old Man Of The Sea]

Hello there, all you young people

Its been a long while and finally im making some progress on when I might finally start my SPS reef tank. Still however there will be some kind of waiting period before this will happen. As is, many changes has be decided on, for one thing, I no longer will have or rebuild the 180 gal tank. Being that both the 180 and 240 had to be build up almost new with everything except the tanks themselves.

I am making some head way on this project, but remember that I already paid once before one lfs owner to setup both tanks, the only thing is, everything he put on these tanks were not suited for maintaining a SPS reef system.

I little data on the 240, I am changing everything down to the tank itself. Please remember that the tank stand has a height of only 24", and having such a large tank and addition water volume from the sump, it would be extremely difficult to get any good equipment which would manage this system.

A week ago, I gotten a quote on the new stand of 36" in height with canopy for $1,400. I am now waiting for a second choice, of the tank stand being 38" in height. Either way, I will have one of these sets.

My main return pump has already been decided on, I will have the Sequence ReeFlo Dart Pump, 3600 GPH, with both the PVC return line and drain will be 3".


I already bought some used equipment for my 240 gal tank, a chiller, calcium reactor and skimmer.


The equipment mentioned are listed as follows:

Pacific Coast Imports C0500 ½hp Chiller

My Reef Creations dual Chamber Calcium Reactor, Regulator and Co2 Canister

MRC MR4 Skimmer, Blueline external pump (1750 gph) and a Waste container


The use equipment with shipping cost me $1,395, and with the decission already decided on, there still be a good number of topics to chat about, and suggestions would be helpful, or useful. Understand one thing here, this SPS tank, is totally new and different for me, I stuck with this idea to do this SPS tank, even with all the excuses and long wait of more then six years to soon and finally enjoy. I will tell you this, that this tank will not start before the end of this year, that much I know because im with any number of toehr equipment to get before this could happen.

So that you all know that im not talking to you out from the side of my face, I had taking these pictures of the equipment I told you that I bought.

MRC MR4 Skimmer
http://s651.photobucket.com/albums/uu23 ... G_6201.jpg
http://s651.photobucket.com/albums/uu23 ... G_6206.jpg
http://s651.photobucket.com/albums/uu23 ... G_6207.jpg
http://s651.photobucket.com/albums/uu23 ... G_6208.jpg
On the skimmer, were parts like the air valve will be furnished new Teflon tape.


Calcium Reactor

http://s651.photobucket.com/albums/uu23 ... G_6209.jpg
http://s651.photobucket.com/albums/uu23 ... G_6211.jpg
http://s651.photobucket.com/albums/uu23 ... G_6212.jpg
I not as yet put this together as yet.


Chiller
http://s651.photobucket.com/albums/uu23 ... G_6214.jpg
http://s651.photobucket.com/albums/uu23 ... G_6215.jpg

The chiller were you see a PVC pipe connected to two parts, are the chillers filtration, one in and the other is out to be returned to the tank. Upon my request, George had sealed it openings tight and good, and is filled with saltwater from his tank, it will remain so until its ready to be used, in which case then, the chiller will be drained completely


Waste Container

http://s651.photobucket.com/albums/uu23 ... G_6221.jpg


Skimmer Pump

http://s651.photobucket.com/albums/uu23 ... G_6223.jpg
http://s651.photobucket.com/albums/uu23 ... G_6224.jpg


Also, I last talked to James my aquarium guy, on a all custom build sump, but if it suits well for the tank, perhaps I can go with a 125 gal tank for it might be less in cost.

As it is now, everything else is on hold now because I need to raise the money for my property tax, also know that James, my aquarium guy, he has $3,200 of my money for the rebuilding of this tank.

Still there be some other equipment I would require for this tank, being its to be my first SPS tank, its a all new ball game as we say. One thing i do not believe is required, and that i consider it a total waste of money, is a nitrate reactor. And im hoping that most that I will require for this, I might buy used.

Buddy

 

[Old Man Of The Sea]

I like to know when I do ask certain questions, will I get some type of assistance in my goal?

Right now im looking into a Magnesium Reactor and CO2 reactor as well, If I hear nothing on this, it will be no sense in bothering to post any number of questions for my goal for this SPS reef system.

You will only then see this tank once it is completed, with or without help from reef.org

I might as well put the bump now, lol

BUMP!!

Buddy

 

[Ben1]

I am not sure what your questions are? Alls thats needed for a success with SPS IME is lots of good water flow, correct lighting (MH and or T5's), and good water quality. There's different ways to accomplish this, keeping P04, and nitrates down and be done with water changes using RO/DI water, GFO/Carbon reactors (I like bulk reef supplys dual reactor), bacterial systems (V/S/V, zeo, prodibio w/e), nitrate reactors (if you use one I like the sulpur based ones but don't use one anymore), and of course skimmers, fuges, etc.. As far as keeping up with Ca, Alk, Mg, use either 3 part dosing, kalk, or a ca reactor or a mix of the options to suit your needs.

AS far as flow goes, koralias, vortechs, eco-maxi mods, closed loops, w/e just find a way to move lots of water very spread out. A bunch of standard powerheads with a small stream is the worst option imo.

Sounds like you got some equiptment and are on the way already, let me know if you have any specific questions and I will help the best I can.

 

[Old Man Of The Sea]

Hi Ben, for the most part right now, if anyone here can or might suggest some certain type of equipment for this reef tank. I must had viewed what I done thus far and so you know, again the tank is a 240 gal tank, its to be dominated with mostly SPS corals, and also looking to have a few clams. The tank is 8'x2'x2' and will have a DSB of about 4 to 4.5".

On the lighting, im looking to have both MH and T5`s. before I post what choices I have right now, im waiting for a lighting spec, which will also show me what links he be suggesting to me. The problem here with the lighting area, im for the first time looking to still enjoy and maintain a SPS reef tank. I have done other reef tanks, but never SPS corals and for the most part, i managed those tanks with mostly VHO lighting. But this, is now a new idea for me, and yet even that I been waiting all this time to start this tank, I am now in a good position to having this tank up and running sometime after the new year.

I only lack what expenses I will have to have available in order that this will finally happen. Gary at champion will email me his specs on a lighting system I might go with. He is to email me it, with links for the parts this will require, the problem be is that, without those links, I have no idea what im looking at. I never took the time before now to understand the lighting equipment for both, MH or T5.

Im a old hand keeping any number of aquariums, and I more then understand that I will need to make proper water changes and look to maintain the tanks nitrate levels as low to untraceable levels as best I can. And I also have a RO/DI unit, which im upgrading it to six stages, and plus im adding a booster pump as well. The water in my area is the worst I ever known, I need to run two Hi-S DI cartridges and their $38 each.

Besides the calcium reactor, after the tank is aging well and stocking corals, later I will do as I always done, I dosed the reservoir tank RO water with Calcium Hydroxide.

I do have to again talk with my aquarium man, for I know your right that even with three vortechs, I would still be using a unknown number of pumps. Let me ask you this, the return pump I will have, im doing what I think to be correct by having a 3" return and drainage system. But I heard some where that the closed loop wouldn't need to be 3" PVC piping, that I could do it even with a 2". The chiller you seen, will also be on its own independent pump. I need to see which pump I might have with it, you any suggestions there?

Being that im to have mostly SPS corals, Magnesium will be of great demand. That what if I could get me a Magnesium Reactor? I only found at most just one link on this. Even if its to only add on much later, when the tank is aging well and is more then half stock with corals and fish. Starting the tank up, it will first have four or five Maxi jets 1200`s. Is there another pump for this you think be better then the Maxi pumps?

Also, I told James my new aquarium guy, that rather then building me a all custom glass sump, what if I were to go with a 125 gal tank instead, he not gotten back to me on that as yet..
Anyway, i like to know anything you can tell me here on what other equipment I would require for this reef tank.

Lighting, I need to get this to a close as well, before I order the new stand and canopy. So far, the few forum links I post this lighting question, I requested that links for everything suggested right down to the sockets and that I wanted the best possible equipment for this as well.

And one other thing, im looking for all types of cooling fans, to see which would be suitable for my tank. I not plan on that I will count on the chiller a lone in the matter of not having me a over heated reef tank.

Buddy

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Buddy,

Congratulations on a very well planned SPS tank! I'll try to answer a couple of questions for you. First, I don't think you'll need a separate reactor for Magnesium. The media in your calcium reactor will also provide Mg. If your Calcium reactor is running properly, and filled with correct media or combination of media, then the only thing you may need to supplement would be iodine.

As for circulation... it's difficult to have too much in an SPS tank. I'm not sure I fully understand your plan, but it sounds like you are planning to have a closed loop. I think many in the hobby feel that while closed loops can work, in-tank powerheads are usually more energy efficient, quieter, and hassle free. I think you and your corals would be much happier with a few Tunze 6105 along with a Tunze controller. The Maxi-jets are better used in smaller non-SPS tanks.

Hope that helps. If you have other questions that I've missed, please just ask them directly.

Craig

 

[Old Man Of The Sea]

Congratulations on a very well planned SPS tank! I'll try to answer a couple of questions for you. First, I don't think you'll need a separate reactor for Magnesium. The media in your calcium reactor will also provide Mg. If your Calcium reactor is running properly, and filled with correct media or combination of media, then the only thing you may need to supplement would be iodine.

Craig, that sounds great, i did however readied some articles on just what your saying, its also why rather then being stupid about it and run out and buy this and that, I ask about it, being that is it is an all new deal for me. I will be looking to buy the Media for this in bulk size, and I readied that they have a certain mix just for this idea in maintaining both my Calcium and Magnesium. You think you could provide me with a link for this media? And I know it will be expensive.

As for circulation... it's difficult to have too much in an SPS tank. I'm not sure I fully understand your plan

I once before completed both selections on my cleaning crew and fish that im most looking to have, but of course it not always go in that way, it may be that my pick selection may not become available and would then have to make minor changes. Later however, i will do this again, on both selections.

My plan for the most part is too have a dominated SPS tank, with a number of clams, all else if it not will exist well enough in this plan, I wouldn't get it then.. That be the real difficult part in asking others ideas in this type of aquarium system, there always be some mix data from one marine hobbyist to the next. But like the saying goes, there be no two tanks alike, not unless both tanks are run by the very same person.

but it sounds like you are planning to have a closed loop. I think many in the hobby feel that while closed loops can work, in-tank powerheads are usually more energy efficient, quieter, and hassle free. I think you and your corals would be much happier with a few Tunze 6105 along with a Tunze controller.

OK, even thou I have in stock, new maxi jet 1200 pumps, I will not use these. But also, the closed loop system came back into place here when being told that the tank would be cramped with power heads for the water currents I would be looking to have, also it may be that later as the tank is being stock with live stock, I may find that additional water movement may become necessary.

Also, I was planning as well having either Tunze or vortechs with their controller, but will this be enough? Im thinking I will need three for sure, but what if I not have the closed loop system, just how much more would that effect the fact that other Tunze or vortechs may be required

Yes Craig, it was a help, but what of CO2 Reactor? Or the carbon reactor that was which was suggested?

While I paste both yours and my own words, I thought about something, but I cannot remember what it was, its horrible growing older and I become more and more forgetful< it will come back to mind at sometime.

Buddy

 

[Len]

Hey Buddy,

Welcome back. Remember our past conversation about keeping your posts shorter? With multi-paragraph posts, a lot of people don't have the time or patience to follow them. It's better if you can split up your thoughts into different posts or threads so people aren't overwhelmed 8)

 

[Ben1]

Being that im to have mostly SPS corals, Magnesium will be of great demand. That what if I could get me a Magnesium Reactor? I only found at most just one link on this. Even if its to only add on much later, when the tank is aging well and is more then half stock with corals and fish. Starting the tank up, it will first have four or five Maxi jets 1200`s. Is there another pump for this you think be better then the Maxi pumps?

The two products that can be added to your typical ca reactor media are dolomite or zeomag, both would keep magnesium up along with the carx media mantaining ca and alk. Otherwise you could use magnesium sulphate and magnusium chloride.

Closed loops are a good option to help prevent the cluttered powerhead look which IMO makes a tank look trashy. I don't like seeing cords in the tanks either and so perfer the vortechs. In a 240 I would use atleast 4 vortechs, I have 3 in my 160 and will probably add a 4th. Tunzes are great pumps also and worth looking at, since they can be aimed a bit better then vortechs. Tunze are also slightly quieter since they are in the water and that muffles the sound.

For lighting I am not sure the actual size of the 240 but if a mix of MH and T5's is your plan I would have your canopy built high enough to incorporate some lumenmax elites like these
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/Metal-Hal ... 8/LumenMax®-Elite---HQI/product_info.html

I would use 3 with 250 watt ballast one double and one single like these http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant ... ghtballast

and for the T5's I assume you will use for actinics, dawn/dusk sim, and to give the tank some pop I would use these

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant ... e=IcecapT5

If you already have VHO ballast and stuff from your old setup and want to save some cash then using the VHO's instead of the T5's would work also.

I see you already have the MRC 4 which should be just fine, its 32" tall right? I don't see why that wouldnt work but if you have some money trees growing in your yard I would look at bubblekings something like this

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant ... bubbleking

but like I said the MRC4 should do just fine, I like becket skimmers beside the huge pump they need.

 

[Old Man Of The Sea]

The email from Gary; :?

To do DIY I'd run 4 1x250DE retros with E-ballasts. i don't think any pendants will fit in your diy hood. Plus I'd add 2 Ice Cap 660s with 4 T5's each.
We could do them in retrofit form too.



That is the email suggestion I received from Gary at Champion Lighting, which to me it not looks like something, but what I not understand is his E-ballasts choice. Do it not look as his suggesting I use four single ballast? Why not get two duel ballast, wouldn't that be better? The suggesting another hobbyist made to me to speak with Gary about my lighting for this tank, seems to me to been wasteful, he didn't even send me links on the equipment.

Now Ben, if I took the time to tell you about what lighting I had on the tanks, you might die due to sadness or perhaps faint

All I left here from the lighting was from the 180 gal tank, a IceCap Model 660-009 and I think that it would run four VHO bulbs. All the other ballasts that was here, was to run 175 watt MH, and i gotten rid of them because i didn't want to downgrade the type of corals I wanted to maintain from the beginning of all this.

The tank is a 240 gal tank, and im looking to have a 125 gal tank for my sump, the tank measures at 8'x2'x2' and I will have a DSB of about 4" to 4.5".

I see you already have the MRC 4 which should be just fine, its 32" tall right? I don't see why that wouldnt work but if you have some money trees growing in your yard I would look at bubblekings something like this

Yeah right, I will start going outside now before the money drops off the trees and all I will have to pick is $4,609.99 LOL

The two products that can be added to your typical ca reactor media are dolomite or zeomag, both would keep magnesium up along with the carx media mantaining ca and alk. Otherwise you could use magnesium sulphate and magnusium chloride.

What is I was to use both media, dolomite or zeomag? or suggest which is best over all. And within that suggestion, A link please to buy both the calcium media and one opf the two here you suggest most. As well as the magnesium sulphate and magnesium chloride, what about the Calcium Hydroxide? I will look up more on the others when I the time, that is for sure.

I know Len, its difficult at times when im trying to get my question or thoughts across, its a good thing that im not a secretary, because without the sexy slim body, I would starve to death, LOL

Also Ben, I clean the impellers of my pump, the external pumps I not need to do this, but I clean each pump once a month, more if it needs to be clean.

Ben, the first link not available, wont open. also, I was lending more to having DE MH bulbs, or is there no difference between the two (DE or SE)? I was also looking at more to having four 250 watt MH, the tank is 8'L. Also, is that the best ballast to go with? Even that I know little to nothing on these type of lighting, I go with the PRICE of it, if the price is up there, your getting your moneys worth. But being that the tank is 8'L, will this change the type of equipment im to have?

but like I said the MRC4 should do just fine, I like becket skimmers beside the huge pump they need.

It might be a little pain in the butt at the start, until that is I get the right air flow, im also trying to decide if I will house the skimmer in the sump> For also, if im to have as well a closed loop, I will have two dart 3600 pumps. And the pump for the skimmer, three external pumps.

Buddy

Ben Thanks, your helping out a great deal here

 

[Ben1]

I like those larger reflectors like the lumenmax elites but I dont think Gary is wrong either. 8 T5's would be nice also, with 8 T5's you could run the MH's 6 hours a day and be fine. The 4 individual e-ballast are fine also, if one goes you can replace just one instead of them having both in one box.

How high of a hood is he making you? If it is not very tall them MH will sit very close to the water and I would be think heat build up will be an issue. If you have one 660 already you can run T5's with it just need to change out the endcaps. Icecap ballast overdrive the bulbs and keeping the bulbs cool with some fans in the hood will help them last longer.

I might have missed it but for the 240 are we talking 96in.x24inx24in. If so 4 MH in retros would spread well but I would want to know what reflectors he is planning to use for you. Some people like DE some like SE I have used both and like them both. With DE you have to have a glass cover on the reflector to filter out UV rays.

Dolomite is much cheaper then Zeomag, dolomite has both calcium and magnesium and is usually used as 10-20% of the calcium reactors fill. You use about the same amount of zeomag.
Both are meant to maintain magnesium levels not raise them. Once you test out correctly having one of these in your reactor will maintain it where it is, raising it should be done with epsom salts.

You can get a magnesium two part from here that can be used to raise or maintain the levels, using just epsom salts has been said to mess the ionic levels.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/Calcium,- ... index.html

and these are their mixing instuctions

Magnesium

Add 5 level cups of Magnesium Chloride and 3 level cupfuls of Magnesium Sulfate to a one gallon jug.
Fill this jug about 4/5th with RO/DI or filtered water, cap and shake until dissolved.
Fill the remainder of the jug with water, cap and label "Magnesium." Let the solution sit for several hours before use.

https://www.marinedepot.com/Korallin_Zu ... CM-vi.html

Heres a good magnesium artical

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/oct2003/chem.htm

 

[Old Man Of The Sea]

I like those larger reflectors like the lumenmax elites but I dont think Gary is wrong either. 8 T5's would be nice also, with 8 T5's you could run the MH's 6 hours a day and be fine. The 4 individual e-ballast are fine also, if one goes you can replace just one instead of them having both in one box.

What I figured was, I not understood what his full suggestion was, for I was lost however because he failed to email me links on everything. Also, I never used anything like this before, MH or T5`s And if the reflectors gary listed in his suggestion is very good, could you get me a link for it?


My plan when the tank do start, I will not run the MH, only the T5 lights to start some algae before buying a few hundred snails. The MH would be put on timers once im nearly ready for corals. But also, one other thing I failed to mention to you, Im also be rebuilding my 40 gal breeder tank, as my QT for corals and fish, and I will run T5`s only on the 40. But the T5 lights would be to rest as its own housing, I will have no canopy I think on the 40. Im planning on fans to be build into the canopy on the 240, as well as other fans around the tank to keep the air cool. But if I find that its causing me this crazy electric bill, what I might do then is, keep the AC set at 75 during the hot months. I normally have it set at 78-79 F.

How high of a hood is he making you?

Before he said at 18" high, but you tell me what it should be for these lights, I do know that the T5 lights would need to be lower then the MH, about 10" above the water line I think. Also, i still not gotten the quote for the 38" tal tank stand.

I was wondering, do you have the capability to make a diagram how the lighting will go?
Also, The link for the T5 lights, if that is to be the exact equipment I should get, am I to have two of those for its only 58.75" L and the tank is 96" L . another thing, James is planning to have a glass cover under the lights, to prevent the lights sockets to become damage from salt creep. Is there some other idea in how to do this?

Dolomite is much cheaper then Zeomag, dolomite has both calcium and magnesium and is usually used as 10-20% of the calcium reactors fill. You use about the same amount of zeomag.

It is very cheap, when im nearing to be ready to start the tank, I will order the 5 gal pail. Also, does it matter which calcium media I use? If so, you might suggest which brand. The other thing be us that im looking as well to have a refugium, I still have to talk with James on the idea to have a 125 gal tank for my sump.

I not selected as yet my phosphate reactor.

OH, NO! I lost the rest of my message for you, and I not remember what it was. It wasn`t much more, only i not remember what it was. Sorry, I just hope that it wasn`t anything extremly important. :?

Buddy

PS, Thanks Ben, your helping out here a great deal. I like later to see your tank(s).

PS, One part i remember is I was saying, "I'm about to go through a chemistry class" , These are the problems when dealing with some older guy 8O lol

 

[Old Man Of The Sea]

Ben, im a idea, why don`t you email me the complete specs and links on everything down to reflecters and sockets. Also how mit should be mounted in the canopy and I will send it to James my aquarium person. the stand and canopy is to be build down in Fla. somewhere. Also if you can provided some diagram as well, it would be very understood to James even more so. I just wasn`t crazy about James solution on the lighting for this tank, he listed two 250 watt MH. Thanks

[email protected]

Buddy

PS. Hi Ben, I just notice this that you were only suggesting three 250 watt MH, I had always been figuring on having four for a 8' L tank.

I would use 3 with 250 watt ballast one double and one single like these
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant ... ghtballast

 

[Ben1]

I think it depends on the reflector choice. For a general rule one MH has 2' of spread, but of course varys greatly on the reflector design. The lighting all depends on how the hood is build, there are so many options the T5's are the easy part. The MH you probably want to talk to one of the more MH geared people here. Like I said If Iw as going MH I would be using these type of reflectors,

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant ... dantshells these look pretty high though and may be tight in a 18" hood.

These have a 5 inch height and would work fine in an 18" canopy, either 3 or 4 would both work depending on your spacing,

http://www.marinedepot.com/Sunlight_Sup ... DE-vi.html (if you buy these don't forget the tempered glass since it is a DE fixture you need the glass listed here http://www.marinedepot.com/Sunlight_Sup ... GL-vi.html


I would use three but I am sure 4 will give that extra boost of light, as long as you can deal with the heat. Be sure to incorporate cooling fans into the hood or the heat will just build in there.

I not selected as yet my phosphate reactor.

I just replaced my deltec one with the dual BFS reactor and like it much better.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/Carbon-an ... _info.html

 

[Old Man Of The Sea]

I think it depends on the reflector choice. For a general rule one MH has 2' of spread, but of course varys greatly on the reflector design. The lighting all depends on how the hood is build, there are so many options the T5's are the easy part. The MH you probably want to talk to one of the more MH geared people here. Like I said If Iw as going MH I would be using these type of reflectors,

When I think of it ben on only three 250 watt MH, it seems to me that its with risk, being that is that it would also depend on how the canopy is build in the first place. I have to feel that being that were no idea to how it will turn out, I rather go with having 4x250 watt DE MH. I mean, how different will the guy in Fla build the canopy?

Tell you what, The canopy that was originally built for this tank, is on the floor, only it has hardly any roof to it. I just took some measurements and the 18" tall part is only at the front of the canopy from top to bottom, but on the inside of this canopy, it measures a little more then 15.5", but when the canopy goes on the tank, it only has the space height of 12.3/4" from the top of the tank. Now I don't know, this sounds almost as if Jeff screwed me here as well. The good thing about it is that I decided on not using it.

So if it be that I would require exactly 18" of height from the inside of the canopy, do tell.

Being on the equipment wise of the lighting, like the sunlamp for one, im no expert there, other then it will still be better then what was in there when I had it taking down. You want to cry? When the canopy was taking off the tank some months ago, it had only two VHO bulbs, but not just on the 240, jeff placed two VHO bulbs on the 180 as well, and they had no reflectors on the 240, other then those thin aluminum, anything I would think be better then this.

Be sure to incorporate cooling fans into the hood or the heat will just build in there.

Perhaps i not explained well enough, James is going to place 4-5 cooling fans alone in the top of the canopy, and when I think of this more, I will as well with what others fans will be in place, on or around the tank, will lower the AC during the warmer and hot months to 75 F. And I think I will when not home, close the vents in all the other rooms in the house. My cats, they like it warm all the time, lol.

So I myself rather if it be OK with you Ben, go by the 2' ruling for the MH, and have four 250 watts DE bulbs with your personal thoughts on the T5 lighting as well.

The BFS reactor looks good, its for phosphate issues, is it not? Also, in the video, their saying its better to buy two single units then to run a duel, due to high risk of clogging. I not think that the phosphate media I was planning to buy when ready, will be good for this unit.

http://www.marinedepot.com/D_D_RP_25_RO ... 13-vi.html

Thanks again for your time and patience 8)
Buddy

I just this moment order the dual BFS reactor, i m holding off on the media for I would like more to buy the bulk size, and the pump for this is they suggest the Maxi 1200, and I already have these pumps in stock. Thanks Ben, now I need to pay my property tax and then back to what I need to buy for my 240 SPS tank.

 

[Old Man Of The Sea]

Ben, the last thing you said on the MH is I would have just three 250 Watts DE MH, and I believe to still with the idea of four from the very beginning of the idea for this system some ten years ago. I would have to believe that James my aquarium guy, should understand what your talking about for the lighting for this tank. I like to ask you if you can email me the parts in which your speaking about the lights, adding of course the fourth MH.

Also, I found today a Aquarium Designer here close by; I ask James to get quotes for three stand sizes in height, 36", 38" and 40". I need to get the lighting to a close in what I will have, I seen some of your photos, your doing great without a sump, but then your not the first I known to done so. But before I can order the canopy, we want exactly what my lighting will be. Thanks again, and you already know that I bought that duel reactor, I will buy the media later on when the tank will become ready to start up.

Aquarium Design & Maintenance Professionals, Inc.
Durham, NC 27713
(919) 699-4430
http://www.aquariumdesignpros.com/

Buddy

 

[Old Man Of The Sea]

Ben, im not sure myself to what is what with everything, but I feel that for sure that I will require four 250 Watt DE MH, its always been said that one 250 W MH is good for a 2'x2', and the tank is 8' L. Im guessing that I just send what I have here between two lines to James on my possible lighting.

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For lighting I am not sure the actual size of the 240 but if a mix of MH and T5's is your plan I would have your canopy built high enough to incorporate some lumenmax elites like these
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/Metal-Hal ... 8/LumenMax®-Elite---HQI/product_info.html


I would use 3 with 250 watt ballast one double and one single like these http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant ... ghtballast


and for the T5's I assume you will use for actinics, dawn/dusk sim, and to give the tank some pop I would use these
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant ... e=IcecapT5

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant ... dantshells these look pretty high though and may be tight in a 18" hood.

These have a 5 inch height and would work fine in an 18" canopy, either 3 or 4 would both work depending on your spacing,

http://www.marinedepot.com/Sunlight_Sup ... DE-vi.html (if you buy these don't forget the tempered glass since it is a DE fixture you need the glass listed here http://www.marinedepot.com/Sunlight_Sup ... GL-vi.html



This message part is that James could see what suggestion Gary at Champion said>
To do DIY I'd run 4 1x250DE retros with E-ballasts. i don't think any pendants will fit in your diy hood. Plus I'd add 2 Ice Cap 660s with 4 T5's each.
We could do them in retrofit form too

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I thank you for your thoughts on the magnesium and phosphates idea, it should work out well, and I finally spoken to James on the idea to go with a 125 gal tank for my sump, rather then to custom build a all new glass 100 gal sump, James agreed that it would be far less costly the 125 gal tank for my sump.

Also, I not know if you seen this, I had these two ideas from two other 240 gal SPS reef tanks> This one I thought to like the most of the two> Only it not gives me enough blue as I would like, I was told this from when I first shown these specs.


4x250w MH.
Two Reefoptic 3 on Icecaps with 14K Phoenix.
Two Aquamedic pendants with 14k Phoenix.
8x54w T5 on Icecaps
4 total Blueplus
2 Aquable specials
2 6500

It went 2 Bluepluses in the front
Then the MHs
1x blue plus
1x6500
1x blue plus
1xAquablue

It drew about 1200 watts at the MH ballasts
And 800 or so watts for the T5s
So around 2000 watts total for 1600 watts of light.




The second one I found was from a TOTM from RC> (I not know if this lighting offers more blue as well)
Lighting - All main tank lighting is contained within the DIY aluminum light box that measures 8" tall X 15" deep X 8' long. Four Hamilton 250-watt Double Ended 14k Kelvin metal halide bulbs in four PFO mini-pendant fixtures and driven by four IceCap 250 electronic ballasts. Eight 46.5" super-actinic URI VHO bulbs on two circuits drive by two IceCap 660 electronic ballasts, one controlled by a Niche Engineering 500 Dimmer to simulate dawn/dusk. Three 25-watt incandescent blue "party" lights as moonlights. One each 150-watt Iwasaki 6500 Kelvin metal halide bulb on both the sump/refugium and grow-out tank, both driven by IceCap 150 electronic ballasts.



Ben, you been a great help in this, just please offer me your final solution/opinion. And I will be sure to mention your thoughts for the 250 W MH, that a single ballast for each bulb would be best.


Buddy

I hope after this, I can move to the next topic in question :wink:

 

[Old Man Of The Sea]

I hope the idea for better eflectors would make the adjustment required for my goal.
In the lighting, there were not so much in assistance on it, but one is reached.
I hope this decision now reach will be well enough suited for my goal. Also, the SPS corals that require stronger lighting, will be position right under the three MH in the area of 24" square area.

So on the lighting specs, the only change made is the MH reflectors to the large LumenBright (20” x 20” x 9”) and all will be completed on light selections for the 240.

James however is trying to work it that i should have good enough lighting with less heating problems, but i wasnt happy about the MH reflectors he quoted for me. I hope with the far better reflectors that this will be well enough suited.

Buddy

 

[Old Man Of The Sea]

New main return pump(s) idea

A little update on my aquarium man who pick out what my MH reflectors would be in which all disagreed with it due to his lighting idea by having only three 250 watt MH, rather then four, that I figured on from day one of on the beginning planning of this SPS system. I sent him a email asking him a question, if he selected the reflectors he mention in his specs due to their the best he thought of for this tank, or is it was only due to that those reflectors were being discontinued, and the company placed the remaining few of that stock on a hugh sale to get rid of them. Following that line of questioning, James then agreed to do over a new lighting specs for the 240 gal tank. I told him that I had no wish to continue hammering around with it, that all or most agreed with his specs, providing I had far better reflectors then he selected for me. As is, the total cost is around $1500 for those specs, I only need to learn to just what K is totals too, as well total amps so that I split the connections, not to overload. even that each outlet handles 20 amps, the surge protectors I have only handles 12 amps. His idea was to try and keep the tank from over heating, even thou im too have a chiller and any number of cooling fans near around the tank.

Just one question his not commenting too as yet, if he could or not put in for me a closed loop system, for I told him that I remember when I first mention this too him, and his remark was, he didn`t know how he could do that. if I don't get me a closed loop put in, im then looking at a number of pumps for the required currents for this tank, I will not be bothering with maxi jet pump, I be only wasting time with those on this type of system.

I did however ask him on some other ideas for a return pump. His original idea was to use two pump, one around 850 gph and the other I think was less then 1100 gph. Im figuring that if he can not assist me by giving me a closed loop system, that I should have some better type of main return pumps. These are the links for the pumps i sent him in question for this project.

If we use two pumps for the two return lines, I selected these:

#27107 - Mag-Drive 9.5 *950 GPH* - $108.95
#27121 - Mag-Drive 12 *1200 GPH* - $137.95

Supreme Mag Drive 950 GPH Pump
Supreme Mag Drive 1200 GPH Pump

MD30RLXT 1" / 1" 960 gph 13.5
MD40RLXT 1" / 1" 1200 gph 15.4

At this link, I couldn`t copy exactly what I wanted to show him, but you can see for yourself here: And if just one pump, im thinking that were looking at a 2136 gph pump as the only return pump.
http://www.iwakiaquarium.com/
http://www.iwakiaquarium.com/pumps_overview.htm

Here is another link:
http://www.pumpcatalog.com/productdisp3 ... =0&pid=269
http://www.pumpcatalog.com/newimages/pr ... t269-1.pdf

And another link: For i know that you will say that even 2100 gph may be too much flow rate, the largest in this models is at 2000 gph.
http://www.saltysupply.com/Iwaki-Pumps-s/236.htm
Iwaki MD100RLT Water Pump (Japanese Motor) 2000 GPH Price: $449.99 Price: $409.99

Or I use these two as two return pumps:
Iwaki MD40RLXT Water Pump (Japanese Motor) 1200 GPH $299.99
Iwaki MD30RLXT Water Pump (Japanese Motor) 960 GPH $229.99

On the above main pump return, it be due to the fact that drilling larger the bulkheads will not be so manageable.

What your thoughts on this?

Buddy

 

[jamesw]

I've always used Iwaki pumps because they are quiet, reliable, and don't add much heat to the water.

Also, you may not need such a big return pump. Do you really want/need that much water going over the overflow and through your system? If you want a lot of water motion in your display there are lots of other good alternatives.

Cheers
James