• Why not take a moment to introduce yourself to our members?

A

Anonymous

Guest
OK, so I've had a range of problems with my tank since I set it up. However, though I overcame the crinoloid isopod and Dictyota, the Myrionema hydroids proved indestructible. Various suggested ways of dealing with them (Pteraeolidia ianthina nudibranchs, African Flameback Angel, physical removal by scraping them off the rock, covering them with kalk, dosing with Zeospur2) didn't work. These things have deep roots in the rock and seem to be pretty resilient.

So, in the end, I went for the approach where I removed what coral was salvageable from the rock, transferred it to frag plugs after painstakingly removing every last trace of hydroid stalk and put the rock in a tank in an unused bathroom, in the dark, for three months. This appears to have done the trick, in the sense that there is now no trace of life on the rock and very little coming off it in terms of mulm etc (I've done infrequent water changes, but otherwise relied on having first scrubbed the rock to remove most organic material and decent flow while it's sitting there in the dark). There is of course no guarantee that when I reuse the rock, a thousand hydroids won't pop up overnight, but I'm hopeful I've done what's necessary.

A quick couple of points on the hydroids:

- zoanthids appear to be able to outcompete them if you help by removing every trace of hydroid every time you see one of those little pom-poms appearing. They block the light from any tiny fragment of stalk left over;

- the most dangerous stage is when the hydroids start to grow into large clumps, because then they start breaking off, floating round the tank and rooting in a new piece of rock. Don't go for the approach that some recommend where you leave them because "quite often they disappear all by themselves"; and

- once coral is removed from the rock, it's possible to painstakingly remove the hydroid stalks from them with a pair of tweezers, if you do this both underwater and out of water.

I'm now approaching the stage where I want to fish the rock out and start again. Currently, in the main tank, I have the DSB still intact, a range of zoanthid colonies doing very well, some LPS doing OK (a Blasto, a couple of Acans, one chalice), a few mushroom corals and Ricordias, yuma and florida and my very pretty purple soft coral. I've lost all my SPS and most of my LPS (a couple of acros, a couple of montis, 3 chalices, one acan), for reasons I don't properly understand. I tested, but didn't track down what I was doing wrong.

I have a number of decisions to make, but before I ask for opinions about those, I'd like to put on the record that:

I now understand why some people originally told me that the marvelous diversity of wild live rock was overrated. I can't be sure the hydroids came in on LR (they probably came in on a coral given the timing of their first appearance), but I can see the argument for starting with live rock rather less bursting with life. I'm now looking forward to creating an aquascape with my rock that's been curing for months in the dark.

I'm also starting to understand why some people go for bare bottomed tanks, not just for the nutrient export, but also for the extra space it gives you in a shallow tank, the lack of sand storms and, I'm guessing expense of sand (though that money's already gone for me).

Given I think it's only honest as part of this mea culpa to give credit where it's due - *nod of head to Rich on both those points - lessons learned*

You can probably tell from those last points that I'm thinking of ditching the sand bed and going bare bottom. But this isn't an easy decision, for a couple of reasons.

One is that it will be a lot of work to remove the sand bed. That's not such a biggie, as I imagine it will be a couple of days hard work to remove the old bed and set up the new aquascape (I plan to go for something rather more organised this time, less free form). Tiring, but achievable. I can make up a lot of water, reuse some of the old water, and probably get away with a minimal mini-cycle.

The second more crucial hesitation I have is that I'm now planning to go for mainly soft coral stocking. Given that I don't know why my SPS and most of my LPS did so badly, I'm not about to try that route again. Maybe if I achieve success in the medium term with the softie tank, I might try a hard coral or two (and I have some small LPS which will be my canaries), but for now I'm going to focus on corallimorpharians, zoas and other softies.

This implies a tank which is not as nutrient poor as an SPS tank. Over the past few months of relative neglect, the zoas in the tank have done well. I expect this might be less the case with a BB tank. I know they need clean water, but possibly not as clean as Acros etc. I have an overpowered skimmer which might exacerbate this problem still further. I also need to consider whether my Strombus snails and McCoskers Wrasse are going to suffer due to the lack of sand.

However, there are obvious attractions. I can have random flow all over the tank, including near the bottom, even if I don't dial the power up too high (with some corals that prefer less powerful flow). I will also add about 3 inches of depth to my aquascaping.

Which has made me consider whether I can address my low nutrient concern by adding more fish to the tank. Currently, all I have is an Ocellaris pair, a McCoskers Wrasse and an African Flameback Angel. The tank is 36"x24"x18", 67 US gallons, with a couple of adjustable Tunze Nanostreams, a Super Reef Octopus 100 Internal Skimmer and GRC and GFO reactors. I'm wondering if I could increase the stocking quite considerably, by adding maybe 2-3 more active fish.

My choices seem to be:

Tangs - not really, the tank's too small. The tangs that might, at a push, be OK (Kole, Yellow eye bristletooth), I don't like the look of.

Damsel - one of the less aggressive types? Yellow tail Damsel would be very pretty (but would it see the African Flameback as a competitor given the similar coloration and this lead to one fish not making it?).

Anthias - the Princess and Sunset Anthias are supposedly better for smaller tanks. If I were to go for a single specimen, could I consider another type like the Lyretail, or the Dispar, which I understand is better for shallow tanks? I've not seen the Princess and Sunset available here, but haven't been looking either to be honest. The more regular feedings might also help keep the softies happy (side question: would spreading 3 feedings over 4-5 hours be too close together? On a weekday, that's the time frame I have between coming home and going to bed).

Wrasses - would lack of sand bed would be an issue?

Dwarf Angel - I'm assuming the answer is a straight "no" in a tank my size, but would adding a Dwarf Angel very different in coloration to my African Flameback be an option?

Chromis - as a single specimen, to avoid the attrition seen with this fish when added in groups.

As you can tell from my list, I need to avoid anything too docile if they're to avoid getting beaten up by the African Flameback, but also want to avoid anything that's going to cause too much trouble.

So, to sum up an overly long post:

1. Does the overall plan (bare bottom with softies, slightly more heavily stocked) sound feasible?
2. What do people think of me adding more fish, and what do they think my options are?

Please bear in mind that there are some fish I can't seem to get hold of here (e.g. Midas Blennies) and some are so expensive that I can't buy them, much as I'd love to (e.g. Rhomboid Wrasse).
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
sorry about the hydroid problem Tom, I personally see no problems(other than the mess involved with removing the sand) and going Bare Bottomed and going with softies over sps corals - you wont have to worry too much about currents, sand storms and the like. a sheet of starboard can cover the bare glass look, and also protect the glass from having the rock sitting directly upon it.

as far as other fish, can you get Dottybacks? Bass/Basslets?
Dottybacks, here in the US range from extremely cheap to a bit pricey, depending on species, and IME are semi-aggressive enough to hold their own against an African Flameback Angel, and they stay fairly small - heck some are even tank bred here in the US.
Basslets again are fairly small, and can have enough attitude to hold their own, given your tank mates now, and range from inexpensive to a bit pricey and all have interesting color patterns
I've seen species of both Dottyback and Basslets range from less than $20 US, to $150, with most below the $80 mark(way below)
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Hey JP. I think I owe you some kind of medal for reading through all that and then still having the energy left to respond! When I didn't get any responses, I opened the thread again and saw how long my original post was...

Good tip on the Dottybacks and Basslets. Apart from anything else, they'll bring a different type of color to the tank. I know there are some of the latter that are very expensive here, but I'm not that aware of the different types, so I might do some research into species and then see if I can track them down. :)
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Hmm. Thinking a Royal Gramma, an Allen's Damselfish and a single Green Chromis might be good additions....
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
I've had both an orchid dottyback and a blackcap basslet (like a gramma) and for whatever enjoyed the experience of the dottyback more. It was always moving in and out of the rock showing flashes of color; the basslet stayed hidden a lot. Maybe royal grammas are less shy though.

I also had a fathead anthias in a 65 that did well and was gorgeous.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Thanks Dan. I'll look into the Dottybacks as well. I was a little worried about my McCoskers Wrasse, given they're a bit more aggressive than the Royal Gramma. I'll do some research into compatibility.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
I installed a big sulphur denitrator and it got rid of the hydroids like you had. It took a couple of months.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Hmm. I've never owned one of those, but nitrates weren't the problem. They looked at their happiest when the water was sparkling clean, there was not a trace of algae and everything was testing well. Good flow and light seemed to make them spread even quicker. Neglecting the tank later on in my battle didn't really hold them back either. They were the cockroaches of the tank - doing well no matter what the conditions.

You might have had a different type of hydroid, or you might have been one of those lucky people for whom they peak and then collapse. It does seem to happen with some people, whereas for others nothing seems to work (bar the physical removal of the rock and cooking I've gone for).
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Alternatively, there's something about Sulphur Denitrators that does the trick...
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
The Escaped Ape":2wq50lc7 said:
Alternatively, there's something about Sulphur Denitrators that does the trick...

I have no idea. They disappeared shortly after I installed the denitrator. Have not done a water change in 3 years and it is skimmerless.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Flabello Meandroid":axxm363m said:
I've had both an orchid dottyback and a blackcap basslet (like a gramma) and for whatever enjoyed the experience of the dottyback more. It was always moving in and out of the rock showing flashes of color; the basslet stayed hidden a lot. Maybe royal grammas are less shy though.

I also had a fathead anthias in a 65 that did well and was gorgeous.

Hey Dan, been looking into Fathead Anthias as a result of your post. Turns out that they do get sold here, though not as common. I'm considering adding this to the list. Four more fish not pushing it I hope.

One more thought for general feedback - I lost my pink Firefish previously, but I'd love to get another. But I'm guessing it's too late to add a goby now, right?
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
I always seem to go with the fish with the most "personality" if I can't add or afford a really prime fish, simple and cheap bi-color Blennies are great fish and one of my favorites and the Bicolor Pseudochromis is rock solid, lot's of personality, won't be pushed around, and has the same color scheme as the RG. Cheap and common here but 2 of my favorite fish. A long nosed Hawk is great too - hell all of the Hawk fish are great.

*Oh God! I can't find the overflow to get back home... 8O
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Thanks Andy! I'm worried about my peppermint shrimp with the Hawkfish. Will it go for them? I'm guessing a Skunk Cleaner would probably be fine, but they usually say something about "might eat small shrimp" with Hawkfish, don't they? I never know if that just means Sexy Shrimp size, or a bit bigger.

The Bicolor Dottyback is gorgeous, but the semi-aggressive tag bothers me. Will it go for tankmates?
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
the shrimp would prolly go, my Skunks were always fine but I had the smaller Hawks. The BC P's I have had were pretty mild but have read some can be real terrors - most I have had just kept to themselves as the cruised in and out of the rock and all over the tank - not is a drive you crazy type way but a relaxing fun to watch sort of way.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Thanks again Andy.

I'll look into the BC DBs. If not, I may end up going for the Royal Gramma as the more passive option. :)

I'm not deliberately going to add anything that will chomp on my Peppermints though. I've grown strangely attached to the not particularly attractive buggers. However, if they start eating anything they shouldn't, I'll just file the info for later. :wink:
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Kudos to you on taking a step back and rebooting. I wish I had the courage and wearwithall to do the same.

I'll vote for the royal gramma. I love mine. The coloration is beautiful and mine has been very hardy and long-lived.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Thanks Mitchell. I'd love to claim that it was courage, but it was more being forced by circumstance!

Thanks also for the feedback on the Royal Gramma. I can feel my final fish list firming up now, though it looks like the Fathead may take a little tracking down over here.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Your McCosker's wrasse will not mind the bare bottom. Many wrasse species would, but Pseudocheilinus, Paracheilinus, and Cirrhilabrus (I'm sure there are other genera, but these are the "big three" reef safe ones) do not bury themselves in sand. Come to think of it I don't believe Wetmorella arrowhead wrasses do either. For Halichoeres, Macropharyngodon, Anampses, etc. they will definitely try to bury themselves.

PS I hate to say I told you so :D
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Matt_":28168fh0 said:
Your McCosker's wrasse will not mind the bare bottom. Many wrasse species would, but Pseudocheilinus, Paracheilinus, and Cirrhilabrus (I'm sure there are other genera, but these are the "big three" reef safe ones) do not bury themselves in sand. Come to think of it I don't believe Wetmorella arrowhead wrasses do either. For Halichoeres, Macropharyngodon, Anampses, etc. they will definitely try to bury themselves.

Excellent Matt, really helpful. :)

Edit: could I add another wrasse or might it cause problems for the McCosker (it's pretty lily-livered)? I'm guessing avoid Pseudocheilinus if the genus is typified by the Six-line, and other Paracheilinus will be too similar and likely to squabble with the McCosker's? The Wetmorella are not that outgoing, are they, so unlikely to cause any problems? The Cirrhilabrus are tempting, but the nicest are sooo pricey. Maybe I should just stick with current plans...


But you have every right to. :oops:
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Oh, and Matt, now that I've sucked you into this thread (like the guy at the party who's backed you into a corner and insists on talking to you about his tank because of where you work), what's your view on adding a goby at this late stage (maybe a N.decora)? Would it be possible if I removed the Dwarf Angel when I put in my live rock again, add the new fish, and then add the Dwarf Angel back in?

4-5 fish a good number to add, or should I stick to 4?
 

Sponsor Reefs

We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.

Click here to sponsor $10:


Top