Hydra52 power vs par

[Anonymous]

I decided to run a basic study with my Hydra52 to see how power and par are related. While I was at it I also look at how each channel impacts total par.

Equipment
Hydra52 8" above water line with all pumps off
AI director for control
Apogee MQ-200 sensor 18" below light, 10" below water line
[rimg]http://wazzel.smugmug.com/Other-2/Hydra52-Par-Study-28-Dec-14/i-Rz6jQjv/0/M/IMG_0001-M.jpg[/rimg]
[rimg]http://wazzel.smugmug.com/Other-2/Hydra52-Par-Study-28-Dec-14/i-Pr9wRLf/0/M/IMG_0003-M.jpg[/rimg]

Test procedure
First step was to take readings with all LEDs at the same setting. I started at 10% power and worked up to 100% in 10% increments and recorded the uncorrected values.
Second step was to take uncorrected readings for each channel from 10% to 100% power in 10% increments.
Third I summed the individual reading to see if they would agree with the full sets of readings. The summed values are close to the full readings.
Fourth I looked at the power per channel as a function of the total for each power setting.

Results
Keep in mind these are uncorrected values. I was looking for relative values, not absolute. The only way I could compare the individual channels to the all channel numbers was to leave them uncorrected.
Power vs par is fairly linear. I would call it linear with the fairly coming from some minor blips in the meter readings.
Par per channel is relatively constant no matter the power setting, if all channels are set to the same level.
White is the biggest contributor to Par when all channels have the same power value. In decreasing order of par Royal Blue, Deep Blue, red, violet, green, UV.
Red, Violet, Green and UV make up about 14% of the total Par together.
[rimg]http://wazzel.smugmug.com/Other-2/Hydra52-Par-Study-28-Dec-14/i-tVZd5Fv/0/L/hydra52%20par-L.jpg[/rimg]
Hope this helps.

 

[Anonymous]

That unit sure packs a punch. Thanks for the readings.

 

[Anonymous]

Yes it does, not a problem. Are you going to use one?

 

[Anonymous]

How about umols, PPFD and the like?

 

[Anonymous]

My meter only measures PAR in PPF units (μmol m-2 s-1)

 

[Anonymous]

PAR is useless for measuring LEDs if you do not know the spectral plot. Quite often you will get a punch in one frequency that pushes the total PAR higher, yet that part of the PAR spectrum may not be what your coral needs.

There's a great article on this coming out soon in the next issue of Reef Hobbyist Magazine. I suggest reading that!

 

[Anonymous]

PAR is useless for measuring LEDs if you do not know the spectral plot. Quite often you will get a punch in one frequency that pushes the total PAR higher, yet that part of the PAR spectrum may not be what your coral needs.

There's a great article on this coming out soon in the next issue of Reef Hobbyist Magazine. I suggest reading that!

That is why I gave a total and by channel numbers. The plots for the LED AI uses are out there, I just did not post them,

 

[Anonymous]

Interesting. I am in the process of upgrading my lights but with that center brace I've been Leary of getting this unit or even the Radion...and of course the new smaller units are just crazily priced and has kept me from affording those sets.
I had originally been pleased with my Rapidled kit but my own inexperience with less caused a number of burnouts and their own rebuilt fixtures seemed like overkill to get two(again that center brace shadow dilemma) but they recently came out with a new kit that is pretty much a knockoff of the Ecotech Radion fixture...hell it even uses the same lenses.
With their own new stormx controller, dual pucks on two separate heat sinks/fixtures was sub $500. 4 light channels white, blues, colors, and uv.

I'm also building a new 55 gallon fowlr- I got a simple on off knockoff led light set for it I hope it isn't too bright, it was kinda blinding when I plugged it in to make sure it worked.

Btw my new kindle fire tablet rocks!

 

[Anonymous]

How big is your tank? I know it is a 65, but actual dims? These units do not cover as billed. No way you are going to get 30x30 out of this. More like 24x18. With the center brace you might be better off with the smaller versions of the units.

 

[Anonymous]

PAR is useless for measuring LEDs if you do not know the spectral plot. Quite often you will get a punch in one frequency that pushes the total PAR higher, yet that part of the PAR spectrum may not be what your coral needs.

There's a great article on this coming out soon in the next issue of Reef Hobbyist Magazine. I suggest reading that!

That is why I gave a total and by channel numbers. The plots for the LED AI uses are out there, I just did not post them,

and you are aware that your PAR meter delivers erroneous numbers when used with LED?

http://www.apogeeinstruments.com/light- ... odes-leds/

Really, PAR isn't the best choice for LED... kinda like wattage per gallon isn't the best choice either :lol:

 

[Anonymous]

PAR is useless for measuring LEDs if you do not know the spectral plot. Quite often you will get a punch in one frequency that pushes the total PAR higher, yet that part of the PAR spectrum may not be what your coral needs.

There's a great article on this coming out soon in the next issue of Reef Hobbyist Magazine. I suggest reading that!

That is why I gave a total and by channel numbers. The plots for the LED AI uses are out there, I just did not post them,

and you are aware that your PAR meter delivers erroneous numbers when used with LED?

http://www.apogeeinstruments.com/light- ... odes-leds/

Really, PAR isn't the best choice for LED... kinda like wattage per gallon isn't the best choice either :lol:

Yes, stated so in the results summary.

Keep in mind these are uncorrected values. I was looking for relative values, not absolute. The only way I could compare the individual channels to the all channel numbers was to leave them uncorrected.

 

[Anonymous]

The point was not to give absolute numbers but to understand the relationship between power and par. Just to have a feel for how much light power you lose per watt cut. I wanted to know if it was linear or something else.

 

[Anonymous]

How big is your tank? I know it is a 65, but actual dims? These units do not cover as billed. No way you are going to get 30x30 out of this. More like 24x18. With the center brace you might be better off with the smaller versions of the units.

36x18 - standard 65 gallon.
that why I am using TWO seperate heat sinks. one to cover each side of the tank - it'll be just like using the smaller single light Radion units. 6 less actual LEDs than my old unit(which at 100% power was far too bright and was bleaching corals)

 

[Anonymous]

How big is your tank? I know it is a 65, but actual dims? These units do not cover as billed. No way you are going to get 30x30 out of this. More like 24x18. With the center brace you might be better off with the smaller versions of the units.

36x18 - standard 65 gallon.
that why I am using TWO seperate heat sinks. one to cover each side of the tank - it'll be just like using the smaller single light Radion units. 6 less actual LEDs than my old unit(which at 100% power was far too bright and was bleaching corals)

Cool. I have no problem running mine super bright. I would be intersted in seeing how it goes for you.

 

[Anonymous]

Yes it does, not a problem. Are you going to use one?

No I use Kessil a150's

 

[Anonymous]

Upgraded to the Kessil A360W's with the spectral controller. Looks awesome and love the slow progression of the lights on the timer.

 

[Anonymous]

Looks nice Dan.

 

[Anonymous]

I've also gone skimmerless. Refuge only. Corals look happier than ever.

 

[Anonymous]

I've also gone skimmerless. Refuge only. Corals look happier than ever.

Okay, PlantlifeBob.

 

[Anonymous]

JK, Dan.

Tank looks great.