I wanted to pass along some tips for alleviating cyano outbreaks. Some of these are 'no brainers' others are more obscure solutions. After fighting cyano in a 29 gallon Nano for several months, the combination of these tips finally tipped the scales in my favor and left me cyano free, without the use of antibacterial medications:
1.) The addition of Macroalgae either via a refugium or in the display. Red grape macro actually looks good in the display. I also began growing mangroves behind the bulkhead of my biocube.
2.) Keep temp down. For a variety of reasons. High temp means less disolved oxygen and higher metabolic rates. and thus waste production, for marine organisms http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php
3.) Keep pH and Alkalinity in check for a variety of more obvious reasons. I have also read that lower pH can act as a catalyst for the release of phosphates trapped in porous substrate and rock. I apologize that I have not been able to locate the source for this info.
4.) Maintain suffucient and preferably random flow. Also be sure that there is sufficient agitation of the waters surface to promote oxygen transfer and to break up that slight film that can be present on the water's surface (this typically accompanies cyano issues and is typically nutrient rich. It also inhibits oxygen transfer.) Avoid deadspots.
5.) Keep feeding in check. Take a closer look at the food or additives you may be using. Many of these contain high levels of phospates. Rinse food whenever possible and try to strain frozen food to rid it of the solution that it is frozen in. Evaluate your tanks bioload as well. Note that even some none nutritional additives may contain high phosphate levels.
6.) It should go without saying that regular water changes with RO/DI water should be utilized. Skimmers should be utilized and kept clean. Activated carbon should be of high quality and free of ash.
7.) Manual removal of cyano via siphoning during water changes goes a long way. Also, pick a portion of your substrate to vacuum each water change.
8.) Keep in mind that if the Cyano is dying due to these measures, the nutrients and 'trates' locked in its biomass are released and a water change should be employed.
I hope others find this helpful. Its an uphill battle.
1.) The addition of Macroalgae either via a refugium or in the display. Red grape macro actually looks good in the display. I also began growing mangroves behind the bulkhead of my biocube.
2.) Keep temp down. For a variety of reasons. High temp means less disolved oxygen and higher metabolic rates. and thus waste production, for marine organisms http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php
3.) Keep pH and Alkalinity in check for a variety of more obvious reasons. I have also read that lower pH can act as a catalyst for the release of phosphates trapped in porous substrate and rock. I apologize that I have not been able to locate the source for this info.
4.) Maintain suffucient and preferably random flow. Also be sure that there is sufficient agitation of the waters surface to promote oxygen transfer and to break up that slight film that can be present on the water's surface (this typically accompanies cyano issues and is typically nutrient rich. It also inhibits oxygen transfer.) Avoid deadspots.
5.) Keep feeding in check. Take a closer look at the food or additives you may be using. Many of these contain high levels of phospates. Rinse food whenever possible and try to strain frozen food to rid it of the solution that it is frozen in. Evaluate your tanks bioload as well. Note that even some none nutritional additives may contain high phosphate levels.
6.) It should go without saying that regular water changes with RO/DI water should be utilized. Skimmers should be utilized and kept clean. Activated carbon should be of high quality and free of ash.
7.) Manual removal of cyano via siphoning during water changes goes a long way. Also, pick a portion of your substrate to vacuum each water change.
8.) Keep in mind that if the Cyano is dying due to these measures, the nutrients and 'trates' locked in its biomass are released and a water change should be employed.
I hope others find this helpful. Its an uphill battle.
.
