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ECFENCING

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Just set up my RO/DI from Bulkreefsupply.

My question is as follows:

What is an normal reading for TDS for the RO membrane only?

I have the inline TDS set up to read after the RO membrane and after the DI cannisters
I get a reading ranging from 3-11 for RO and 0 for DI.

Also how do you know when you need to replace your RO membrane?
 
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KathyC

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Can only answer part of this...the reading should be zero for flat out ro/di water.

When you set up a new unit I know you're supposed to run it for x amount of gallons to rinse the cartridges (?)...and then you're ready to rock & roll when it is at '0'.
That info should be in the instructions.

I only replaced my membrane after I had changed all of the other cartridges ( Ihave a 6 stage) and my TDS still wasn't reading zero.
 

ECFENCING

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Thanks Kathy

I get 0 for DI. Just curious as to what others typically find is a reading for their RO membrane or if they check it at all......



I used to test my incoming water out of curiosity and it was approx 180-214....NYC water is pretty clean relative to Jersey.
 

KathyC

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You should get zero if running through both the DI & membrane. How long have you let it run?

Supposedly the membrane should last 3-5 years..but...that all depends on how much water you make :)
 

ECFENCING

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It's brand new.....

I get 0 after RO and DI

I get 3-11 after RO membrane but before going into DI stage


I have an inline TDS to read after the RO membrane and then after the DI stage. It's 0 after RO and DI but just wondering if anyone tests TDS from the RO membrane solely to figure out at what point replacement is needed
 

bad coffee

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3-12 TDS out of RO sounds acceptable. The big 0 out of the RODI (and into your tank) is what you really should be concerned with.

Keep track of your readings over time. When you see the number creep up (in a few years) then it's time to change your membrane.

Keep your pre-filters changed and you should be good to go.


My tap water is 45 TDS.
My DI filter is 0 TDS.

I don't have RO Inline.

I have one of those ($18) dual TDS inlines. When the out goes above 1 TDS I change my DI resin. I buy bulk, so the change costs me about $6.

B
 
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Use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called prefilters) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see its still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water (aka “permeate”), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependant upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm to 3 ppm, 5 ppm, and higher, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker then would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal!

Russ
 

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