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My tank has a way to go so i am not going to rush my decision but if it were you what would u do.I want to house sps, polyp,mushrom, lps, some sea fans, inverts and fish.I am going to take my time and do as much reserch as possible before my purchase anyone with info is more than welcome to answer. I welcome any and all coments.

green people with greens can go for the LED's while not green people with some greens can go for MH and not so green and has no greens go for T5
 

uncle deisel

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lighting

you say in the future is that any time in the near future like maybe 5 or 6 months when i am probrably going to be ready to start up my tank.I really want the best from the start i dont want to have to upgrade a year after i put this all togeather.i hate to have to back track a very good set up and i am willing to be very patient if thats what it takes.
 

House of Laughter

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Uncle Diesel,

There are other factors you need to consider when deciding on lighting as well - yes, cost is a major one, but if you're looking to emulate natural sunlight, halides are the closest thing to getting there (and that is still far from perfect)

T5's, VHO's, LEDS and Power Compacts will never give you the shimmering effect you'll get from halides.

We helped another MR member do his 225 with halides and he is very happy with his decision - if you'd like more information on that system I can get him in contact with you if you like.

Read more about halides - I bet you won't regret it.

House
 

JBNY

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Also keep in mind that lights are one of the major components that reefers change pretty often. I know a lot of people who like to change bulbs every 6 months or so to see if it helps/hurts coloration and growth etc. LED are just WAY too $$$ IMO. It would take me like 10 years to recoop the electrical cost.
 
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Also keep in mind that lights are one of the major components that reefers change pretty often. I know a lot of people who like to change bulbs every 6 months or so to see if it helps/hurts coloration and growth etc. LED are just WAY too $$$ IMO. It would take me like 10 years to recoop the electrical cost.
I just priced a (1)2 x 250W + 2 x 54W fixture from MD at $756
and (2)a 150W LEDs from me which should have more PARS than the above when optimized or at least similar at $1500

In 2 years, you change bulbs 3 times and they are they same cost already not to mention the electricity saving , almost no degration of fthe light during the whole lifetime of the bulbs and the more proper wavelength(PAR).

BTW, Con Ed is raising their rate this year. Who knows how many more price raise in two years. Two years ago, gas is selling fluctuating arond $2.00-2.50 and now is $4.00 range. If another war broke out, gas shoot to $6.00 in no time. Con Ed has no choice but to raise again.
 

Sean

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Uncle deisel
What are the dimensions of your tank? Is it 72x24x30? If yes then I wouldn't use LEDs sorry Wingo. It's kind of a deep tank. I would use MH maybe even 400 watters.
 
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The Solaris rep. claimed that the solaris penetrates the water the same as 400w mh.

somehow I doubt that.
Jake Adam took a reading, wait til he post some comments then we know.

My 17W LEDs ranges from 50-110 PAR (therefore, 150W Solaris should yield 441 to 970 if they use same LEDs as mine-my sample was using 2 year old tech ones) depends of location of the spot, so what's the PAR under your 250W MH that day and what color temperature is that bulb?
 
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JBNY

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I just priced a (1)2 x 250W + 2 x 54W fixture from MD at $756
and (2)a 150W LEDs from me which should have more PARS than the above when optimized or at least similar at $1500

In 2 years, you change bulbs 3 times and they are they same cost already not to mention the electricity saving , almost no degration of fthe light during the whole lifetime of the bulbs and the more proper wavelength(PAR).

BTW, Con Ed is raising their rate this year. Who knows how many more price raise in two years. Two years ago, gas is selling fluctuating arond $2.00-2.50 and now is $4.00 range. If another war broke out, gas shoot to $6.00 in no time. Con Ed has no choice but to raise again.

It's still 2x the price to start up. I'd like to try it myself, it just that for a 72" fixture I think it is something like $4000!! Ouch! I still have yet to see any real data that it is as bright as they claim.
 

JBNY

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Jake Adam took a reading, wait til he post some comments then we know.

My 17W LEDs ranges from 50-110 PAR (therefore, 150W Solaris should yield 441 to 970 if they use same LEDs as mine-my sample was using 2 year old tech ones) depends of location of the spot, so what's the PAR under your 250W MH that day and what color temperature is that bulb?

How far under the water are those measurements?
 
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It's still 2x the price to start up. I'd like to try it myself, it just that for a 72" fixture I think it is something like $4000!! Ouch! I still have yet to see any real data that it is as bright as they claim.

Hope Jake is ready to post some data he took.

Anyway, my 17W is from 50-110 PAR. I use it over my frag tank for orange cap and purple pink zoa. I will built one about 100W this week for myself and hopefully some member here can lend me a PAR meter and run the test together.
 

JBNY

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I guess the question I always have is how is the light from a 150 watt source going to be brighter or as bright as a 400 watt source. What someone needs to do is test the lights under the same conditions. In tank is a really poor ways of testing, as the distance is not always exactly the same (an in tank reading sometime off by as much as 1/4" can produce large differences in readings). So it really needs to be tested out of tank, in a controlled manner like most of the MH testing has been done.

But in the mean time in tank readings are better than none at all. At least I could compare it to what I can test with a PAR meter in my own tank. I would be happy if LEDs could beat 250 watt MH, as I don't see how 400 watt MH are even needed anymore.
 
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It's still 2x the price to start up. I'd like to try it myself, it just that for a 72" fixture I think it is something like $4000!! Ouch! I still have yet to see any real data that it is as bright as they claim.

and I think the real deterring factor of the LEDs are the initial cost, not its potentials. If you are not a manufacturer of LEDs like me, you are out of luck because your cost will be much higher.

As for real life experience, I build LED building projection lights and easily make LEDs project higher than the MH. I never have a deep enough tank to test the water penetration, nor a PAR meter to test in terms of what corals wants, so I just have to wait for some third party to tell me their findings.
 

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