couldnt do it!!!

[NYPDFrogman]

Ok guys, here's the deal
a couple of weeks ago I posted I was going to get rid of my 180.
couple of days later I decided I couldnt give up my fish but conceded that I had to down size a bit and try to reduce the cost of running the tank ( my electric bill is a mortgage payment!)

so after a lot of thought I decided to re size rather than downsize :splitspin

the tank is going to be 72L X36W X24T 1" acrylic with a black backround
external overflows on each side (approx 270 gals)

I think I can use my existing sump but there are a couple of things I'd like to change so I'm still up in the air.

I'm planing on a sequence for circulation
here's were I'm sure some will disagree
for lighting I'm going to go with 2-175W MH with lumenarc and 2 VHO actinics ( now I have 3-250 MH with stock reflectors over a full glass canopy)
the top of the tank will be open with 4" euro bracing, light should not be restricted in any way above the tank

I will have enough 1" acrylic left over to make a 120 gal tank 48X24X24
if anyone is interested LMK I plan on using that tank temporarily while I do the switch over

I know it will take some time to recoup the saving: cost ratio, but the sale of the existing 180 and the new 120 should help justify the effort.


I just couldnt get ride of my fish Knock wood I've had more than half of them almost 6 years.

I hope to start this project right after memorial day

 

[masterswimmer]

Since you know where the debate will arise, I'll refrain from offering my opinion on 175w MH over a 24" tall tank.

Good luck with it. I already know the quality of the build, so that's not an issue.

Anyone in the market for a top notch 120g tank should jump on this. 1" acrylic would be insane on a 120. Frank, do you think the 120 with 1" acrylic would even need to be euro braced?

Russ

 

[boozeman]

Imho that is a big area to cover with just two reflectors, but I guess it's all relative to what you are planning to keep in it.... what is your proposed stocking plan?

 

[NYreefNoob]

also depends on placement of corals. if you have islands that hold the corals and they are under the mh's you should be ok, dont need to light area where the coral isnt. and on second note plz pm with what you will be looking to get for the 48x24x24 tank after you use it or make it. really might be more interested if it was only 20" high

 

[Reef Mongoose]

I don't think it would, have seen a larger tank that was 1" acrylic that was totally rimless

 

[prattreef]

Coverage is the biggest issue. If you get creative with aquascaping and leave lots of room on the ends for open , dimmer space, it could be really cool. I would highly recommend the Iwasaki 15K 175W. lamps as they are absolute PAR beasts approaching the intensity of many 250W. lamps. They are a very crisp white and should look awesome with some actinic supplementation.

 

[NYPDFrogman]

Coverage is the biggest issue. If you get creative with aquascaping and leave lots of room on the ends for open , dimmer space, it could be really cool. I would highly recommend the Iwasaki 15K 175W. lamps as they are absolute PAR beasts approaching the intensity of many 250W. lamps. They are a very crisp white and should look awesome with some actinic supplementation.

I plan on 2 islands will be a mixed reef SPS dominant nice assortment of fish

ate IWaski double ended or mogul base I already have lunenarc reflectors that are mogul base

Since you know where the debate will arise, I'll refrain from offering my opinion on 175w MH over a 24" tall tank.

Good luck with it. I already know the quality of the build, so that's not an issue.

Anyone in the market for a top notch 120g tank should jump on this. 1" acrylic would be insane on a 120. Frank, do you think the 120 with 1" acrylic would even need to be euro braced?

Russ

I would tend to agree with your opinion on lighting, right now I have 3- 250W cheap retro fit refllectors
10K ushio bulbs that shine through 1/2" saltcreep covered glass and I have good coral growth.

I still plan on some sort of bracing on the 120 just to be on safe side
I tend to overbuild!

and on second note plz pm with what you will be looking to get for the 48x24x24 tank after you use it or make it. really might be more interested if it was only 20" high

making it 20" high wont be a problm as long as your definitely going to take it Let me see what my cost is going to be and I'll figure a price
also need to decide on overflow box(s) if you want them

 

[prattreef]

Mogul.

 

[jejton]

I'm confused, how does this help with the electric bill? anyway looking forward to the photos. any of the existing tanks?

 

[NYPDFrogman]

I'm confused, how does this help with the electric bill? anyway looking forward to the photos. any of the existing tanks?

The new pump will be a lot more cost efficent than Iwaki
new plumbing 1 1/2" return as apposed to existing 3/4 return line
less back pressure on the pump

reducing the lighting from 750 watts to 350 watts
new tank will have an open top compared to the partial glass top on existing 180.
new hood will hang over tank rather than resting on it

 

[qy7400]

The best way to drop the electric is the pumps, replace any pressure pumps for flow based, beckett skimmer with needle wheel and closed loop of Tunze/Vortec. My 180 originally had a Gen-X40 (return) and Gen-X50 (skimmer), average cost of $44 per month. I switched to an ATI BM200 and Snapper pump and the cost dropped to $18; in tank was and still are a pair of Tunze 6100s.

 

[boozeman]

thinking a bit outside the box...you may want to consider a single 400w in a luminarc with a controlled light moving rail to make it span across the length.
Also, if you can move the sump from under the tank to a basement it will help with the cooling during the summer months.

 

[qy7400]

Another thought would be T5,for the 180 an 8x80W would run 100W less that halides plus reduce tank heating saving run time if you use a chiller. Debate all you want but there are to many T5 successful SPS systems out there.

 

[boozeman]

I agree, lots of awesome sps tanks on T5s if you look at the Italian reefing forums

 

[NYPDFrogman]

thinking a bit outside the box...you may want to consider a single 400w in a luminarc with a controlled light moving rail to make it span across the length.
Also, if you can move the sump from under the tank to a basement it will help with the cooling during the summer months.

The tank is in the basement already

 

[NYreefNoob]

< runs a t5 sps tank. doubt i will ever go back with mh's

 

[NYPDFrogman]

still not sold on t5's
I love the ripple effect you get with MH

I think the 175's will do OK with the open un obstructed tank top
heat isnt a problem central A/C tank doesnt go over 80-82 even in real hot days

 

[NYreefNoob]

< gave up the ripple effect to save $$$, ny i get great growth and color with the t5's, not trying to change your mind, ming and alexpescado both run t5's as well, i think light plays a part but so do alot of other thing's in the growth and color for sps. as well as energy save i love being able to run a combo of different temp bulbs, but if you are making the rock in islands i dont see why you couldnt get away with 2 175's over each island

 

[boozeman]

reefnoob have you seen the ripples created by a sfiligoi xenus on a T5 tank ?
something you may want to look into.

 

[fritz]

Listen to randy, you'll be fine with 175s. You could go with T5s for supp instead of VHOs.

As to T5 vs MH, I've done T5s a few times but without the ripple I don't feel like I'm under water.