• Why not take a moment to introduce yourself to our members?

Cibo

Senior Member
Location
Howell
Rating - 100%
6   0   0
I just set up my tank I wanted to test what would happen if the power failed, well my sump filled and filled and filled untill I turned the main pump back on...

I steped back and looked at what was going on The water was back flowing from my return,

What can I do to correct this......
 

Domboski

No Coral Here
Location
Montclair, NJ
Rating - 100%
237   0   0
I just set up my tank I wanted to test what would happen if the power failed, well my sump filled and filled and filled untill I turned the main pump back on...

I steped back and looked at what was going on The water was back flowing from my return,

What can I do to correct this......

You can buy in-line check valves (they have them at New World Aquarium) or you can drill a hole in your return(s) just below the water surface in the tank. When the water level goes below the drilled holes it will break the syphon because air will enter through the holes.

See here: Syphon
 

boardryder

Advanced Reefer
Location
CT
Rating - 100%
6   0   0
check valve and/or hole right below the water line. I din't like a hole as it decreases the main outflow pressure, but instead make it so that the outflow is right below the water line. Be careful with check valves though as the one I have is not fully functional and still allows siphoning. Was I happy that I found out before the worst happened. Now I have my setup so that if my check valve fails I still won't flood my place with my outflow right below the water line.
 

Cibo

Senior Member
Location
Howell
Rating - 100%
6   0   0
If I drill a hole just below my water line when the pump is on will the water squirt out from the pressure of the pump?? how big of a hole are we talking about???
 

boardryder

Advanced Reefer
Location
CT
Rating - 100%
6   0   0
Enough so that air will break the siphon. Start small, test, drill bigger if need be. I think I used a 1/4" on a 1/2" pvc. Again I personally didn't like the hole idea too much, but it's better than a flood.
 

boardryder

Advanced Reefer
Location
CT
Rating - 100%
6   0   0
You can still incorporate a check valve if you were using flex hose with a few extra parts. Just be worried about the back pressure and your connections! Don't see why it wouldn't work though.

Flex to pvc and clamp, pvc to check and cement, check to pvc and cement, pvc to check and clamp.
 

Cibo

Senior Member
Location
Howell
Rating - 100%
6   0   0
In the overflow I would check the normal hight of the water then go a little down and make a 1/8 hole In mine the return splits in 2 and I have a return on each side I'm going to try a hole in each one
 

Wes

Advanced Reefer
Location
Raleigh, NC
Rating - 100%
6   0   0
Don't use a check valve they are very unreliable. U drilled the hole in the wrong place. The water level never changes inside the overflow so if u want your syphin break inside the overflow box it must be above the water line most people just drill a hole on the return right below the water. Line in the display.
 

nanchil

Crawling Reefer.
Location
Mohegan Lake, NY
Rating - 95%
38   2   0
This is from this article

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-01/newbie/index.php


Prevent a Flood
The next subject worthy of consideration is how to keep the floor dry around your sump. If the sump is set up properly, it will not overflow - ever. What has to be established is the total water volume it can hold, and to do that, follow these simple steps:
Each return line in the display tank should have anti-siphon holes drilled into it. I recommend two ?" holes per return, drilled ?" beneath the normal water line when the system is running. The reason for drilling two holes is that invariably, just when you need them to work, a rogue snail is parked over one, munching on algae. Using two holes increases the odds that the siphon will be broken, and reduces the amount of water that back-siphons into the sump. These anti-siphon holes should be checked often to ensure that they are not obstructed with algae or calcification, and cleaned out monthly. In the picture below, you can see water squirting out of the holes as the tank refills. Notice the squares on the left? When the tank is full, the water level is high enough for water to flow through those holes into the overflow, and the anti-siphon holes are completely submerged and silent.
Once the sump is running, unplug the return pump to simulate a power or pump failure. Unplug the skimmer so water drains from its body into the sump as well. After about a minute, the sump's water level should stabilize. If the sump is about to overflow, remove enough water so that it stays full. If the sump still has room, add more saltwater to fill it near the top, at full capacity.
Turn the return pump and skimmer back on, and wait for the display tank to refill and resume draining again. The water level will stabilize at a lower point in the sump within 60 to 90 seconds. Using a Sharpie? or a piece of tape, mark a line on the sump at that water level in the return section. That is the maximum fill line. If the sump's water level is above that line when the power or pump fails, it will overflow. In the picture below, the blue tape is my marker. As long as the anti-siphon holes are functional and the water level is never higher than that line, the sump should never overflow. And as long as the tank's overflow is working properly, the tank won't overflow, either.
 

Attachments

  • tn_image011_jpg.jpg
    tn_image011_jpg.jpg
    46 KB · Views: 42

Cibo

Senior Member
Location
Howell
Rating - 100%
6   0   0
Thank you All
A picture Is worth 1000 words and a Link helped also I did it just like the photo it worked Like a charm!!!
 

Sponsor Reefs

We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.

Click here to sponsor $10:


Top