Which would be better to lower nitrates??

[Tangs Rule]

To add a denitrifier to my filtration system or to purchase an RO/DI system so I can do bigger water changes more consistently. Currently I change about 1/3 of the tank (50 gallons) every other week. I purchase the water at my LFS at this time.

This is a 150 FOWLR and the nitrates are currently around 80ppm. I recently removed the bio balls from my wet/dry and replaced it with branch live rock rubble.

 

[tommy818]

2 to 4in sand bed is the best way to lower nitrates.

 

[Tangs Rule]

I have about a 4 inch sand bed. How does that lower nitrates?

 

[stoneriff]

To add a denitrifier to my filtration system or to purchase an RO/DI system so I can do bigger water changes more consistently. Currently I change about 1/3 of the tank (50 gallons) every other week. I purchase the water at my LFS at this time.

This is a 150 FOWLR and the nitrates are currently around 80ppm. I recently removed the bio balls from my wet/dry and replaced it with branch live rock rubble.

Definitely get an RO/DI unit. I have one that is rated at 100gpd. It works great. I have a 72 gallon mixed reef tank with a 30 gallon sump. Getting rid of the bio-balls was a good move, but you need to use plenty of live rubble rock in the sump. Ease up on your feeding. Fish require less than you think. Trust me, I tend to over feed. I also do not know how crowded your tank is. Post some pics with a list of all your filtration gear. You'll get some good advice on this site. People here are cool. Get a big container for your water. Make some substantial water changes to bring down your nitrates. Once everything is stabilized, you can do 10-15% water changes every week or two. You'll get used to your tanks needs. Hope this helps.

 

[Tangs Rule]

Tank is 150 with wet/dry (LR rubble instead of bio balls, and a protein skimmer which I can't remember what kind it is.) I also have a UV sterlizer on the tank. Stocked in the tank are 3 borbonius anthias, 2 golden butterfly's, flame angel, golden dwarf eel, labouti wrasse, blue sided fairy wrasse, and a tiny vlamingi tang.

 

[18oreefer]

I would start with a rodi unit for sure. You could test your tap water to tell you your ppm nitrates, but if theres any its too high. Water changes are a must with 80 parts (with rodi). It is goign to take a while to get your nitrates down because ther will be a lot of it still leaching out of your rock. The deep sand bed will process the nitrate into nitrogen gas because it provides a place for anerobic bacteria (bacteria that live and thrive without O2) to grow and thrive. But the sand bed is only good for that as long as you dont disturbe it (i.e. vacuume the sand during water changes). If you do that then your introducing O2 to the bacteria and killing them. If you want to try to get away with out a denitrator try dosing vodka (vodka is to bacteria what food is to people and nitrates are to anerobic bacteria what O2 is to people) to your tank to help promote anerobic bacteria growth. Once you have done all that and given it plenty of time to all work threw and you still have high nitrates then definatly go for the denitrator. But it also might be a good option to go with it if you have your tank stocked with a lot of fish. Tap water will definatly have nitrates in it. RODI is your best start. Good luck with the nitrate battle. I have won my battle but it took me getting an aquariepure to bring my nitrates to 0. I also have 15 fish 4 of which are big tangs.

 

[tommy818]

stop using the uv it helps with parasites but it also kills the good bacteria witch makes the sand bed useless.

 

[Killerdrgn]

stop using the uv it helps with parasites but it also kills the good bacteria witch makes the sand bed useless.

Actually if you read the bacterial analysis thread ( I believe the information is there) the bacterias that converts ammonia-nitrite-nitrate-nitrogen are not free floating bacteria and would not be affected by the UV sterilizer.

 

[Killerdrgn]

To add a denitrifier to my filtration system or to purchase an RO/DI system so I can do bigger water changes more consistently. Currently I change about 1/3 of the tank (50 gallons) every other week. I purchase the water at my LFS at this time.

This is a 150 FOWLR and the nitrates are currently around 80ppm. I recently removed the bio balls from my wet/dry and replaced it with branch live rock rubble.

A RO/DI would definitely make this hobby a lot cheaper for you. But the one question that really hasn't been asked yet is, since this is a FOWLR how are the fish reacting to the water levels?

Larger pieces of LR, without so many holes, would be better for converting nitrate to nitrogen as there would be more interior anerobic space. (Would be best to place in tank or roomy space in sump.

 

[Tangs Rule]

The fish don't seem to mind the nitrates. I did have to pull one of the golden butterfly's out of the tank and put him into the QT because he looked like he was getting ich. Other than that, all the fish are happy, swimming, eating and being themselves. I have a good 120 - 150 lbs of liverock in the tank. Unfortunately my wet/dry can't hold much liverock. Maybe getting rid of the wet dry and replacing it with a sump (30 - 40 gallon?) will be the next project.

 

[Wes]

a remote deep sand bed, homemade coil-denitrator, and "store-bought" sulfur denitrator are all effective methods of nitrate removal.

 

[meschaefer]

As someone else already alluded to: why are you worried about Nitrates in a fish only tank?

Bioballs are fine in a fish only tank, and in my opinon you are wasting your money replacing them with live rock. An RO/DI is a good investment, no matter what type of tank you kee.

 

[Tangs Rule]

Even though they don't seem to bother my fish, doesn't it make sense to have the best water quality possible?

 

[meschaefer]

Therein lies the issue, how do we quantify what is "the best water quality possible".

Fish are fairly immune to Nitrate levels... low nitrate levels or high nitrate levels it is basically the same thing for fish. It is an irrelevant value as far as fish are concerned. I would spend my time worrying about other things.

 

[Tangs Rule]

It has been my understanding that fish considered to be difficult to keep would do better in water with lower nitrates. I do not believe everyone agrees about nitrates not affecting fish. Hell, my LFS tells me I shouldn't be adding fish when my nitrates are this high and I don't usually believe too much of what they say as they have different interests than those of us in the hobby.

I also have plans to convert this tank to a reef tank sometime within 2009, so I think it would be a good idea to start improving my water quality now.

 

[Marteen]

You could get rid of the wet dry and install a refugium instead. Run chaeto it will lower your nitrates a ton.

 

[Keith P]

A RO/DI would definitely make this hobby a lot cheaper for you.

That's what I was thinking!
BTW, all the LFS I've spoken with use and sell RO, they don't use DI.

 

[qy7400]

My 180 is in the same boat, best I ever got was NO3 of 50 after changing 100G and shoots right back up to 80-100 within the week. Nothing has shown signs of displeasure the NO3 is so high but thanks to thanks to the out of control green mushrooms I only have a bubble coral left; they started so small and innocent...