Is a U/V steralizer benefical to a tank

  • I use one, and believe it is a beneficial piece of equipment

    Votes: 14 45.2%
  • I believe they are beneficial for a tank but dont use one

    Votes: 9 29.0%
  • I dont use one, they do more harm then good

    Votes: 1 3.2%
  • I dont use one b/c I just dont care about it for whatever reason

    Votes: 7 22.6%
  • What ever you do, DO NOT use a U/V steralizer, they are detrimental to a reef tank

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    31

rookie07

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I am not sure weather or not to use a U/V steralizer.

I have heard they kill beneficial bacteria, etc....and I've heard that is false b/c benefecial bacteria lives on/around rock not in water column.

The purpose of this pole is to help me decide what people use and think.

Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks,
The Rook


If you do use a U/V steralizer, and think your water quality is amazing, please post a picture that proves this
 
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Dre

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I have a 30 watt in use but i didn't vote because i'm trying to learn more about this equipment as well.It's a 50/50 on my part for now i think it's good to have one especially for fish only tanks.For reef tanks a sterilizer will kill the good the bad and the ugly and sometimes you need some of the good.
 
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masterswimmer

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A UV light cannot kill ANY bacteria, unless it passes the UV light. Therefore, any bacteria on your LR, in your sand and on your corals won't be harmed unless they dislodge themselves from the surface they're on, become free floating in the water column, go down the overflow and pass through the UV sterilizer.

swimmer.....who hasn't passed through the UV.....I've got two adult children :biggrin:
 

Dre

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A UV light cannot kill ANY bacteria, unless it passes the UV light. Therefore, any bacteria on your LR, in your sand and on your corals won't be harmed unless they dislodge themselves from the surface they're on, become free floating in the water column, go down the overflow and pass through the UV sterilizer.

swimmer.....who hasn't passed through the UV.....I've got two adult children :biggrin:
You have hit the nail on the head LOL i agree 100% when i say kill the good i mean algae,bacteria,phytoplankton,plankton and some organics that corals may benefit from.Correct me if i'm wrong i'm here to learn.
 

Yen

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I think the main purpose of UV is to control floating algea. This is the type of algea that would make you water green. If you don't have floating algea, it's not necessary. If you have to use one, don't glue it to your pipe, use unions , so later on if you don't need it, remove it and replace a piece of PVC in between the unions.
 

masterswimmer

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I think the main purpose of UV is to control floating algea.


Actually most people use UV filters to kill the ich parasite (amongst other uses). The ich cyst can settle in the sandbed, LR, etc and can't pass through the UV until they hatch. This is all part of eradicating ich. Run fallow for 6-8 weeks (no fish whatsoever in the display) with the UV running. The ich cyst cycle will run and the cysts that haven't hatched will all have the opportunity to hatch in the 6-8 week period. The ich parasite cannot survive without a host (fish). Therefore, the parasite can't attach to a fish to propagate new cysts and the parasite passes through the UV and dies or just dies because of no host. The 8 weeks of fallow gives all the potential cysts on the LR or sandbed to hatch and die without laying new eggs (cysts).

Hope this wasn't confusing.

As for the Odyssea UV, I hate to say this, but for the most part, when you buy something in the reefkeeping hobby, you get what you pay for. In this case, cheap price correlates to cheap product. There are much better UV Sterilizers on the market.

Russ
 

Yen

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Very true, if you can get all the ich parasites to go through the UV.
However, they'll die anyway without a host, UV or not:splitspin

Yen

Actually most people use UV filters to kill the ich parasite (amongst other uses). The ich cyst can settle in the sandbed, LR, etc and can't pass through the UV until they hatch. This is all part of eradicating ich. Run fallow for 6-8 weeks (no fish whatsoever in the display) with the UV running. The ich cyst cycle will run and the cysts that haven't hatched will all have the opportunity to hatch in the 6-8 week period. The ich parasite cannot survive without a host (fish). Therefore, the parasite can't attach to a fish to propagate new cysts and the parasite passes through the UV and dies or just dies because of no host. The 8 weeks of fallow gives all the potential cysts on the LR or sandbed to hatch and die without laying new eggs (cysts).

Hope this wasn't confusing.

As for the Odyssea UV, I hate to say this, but for the most part, when you buy something in the reefkeeping hobby, you get what you pay for. In this case, cheap price correlates to cheap product. There are much better UV Sterilizers on the market.

Russ
 

masterswimmer

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Very true, if you can get all the ich parasites to go through the UV.
However, they'll die anyway without a host, UV or not:splitspin

Yen


I'm gonna play the same numbers you do for Mega Millions this week. You're either very lucky, very trusting, or just plain see the glass as half full. Get ALL the ich parasite to go through the UV :banghead: And the pope's little skull cap means he converted to Judaism. :rolleyes:

swimmer
 

Yen

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Why not UV ...

Hahaha, very funny, Russ. If you hit the jackpot, please don't forget me:splitspin No, I'm not lucky, never hit any jackpot any kind:-(

OK, now this is my full glass:)

This is a polling thread, I voted "It's beneficial but I don't use one". I got a 18 W UV that I took from my 3600 gallon koi pond when I replaced it with a 25 W, I thought of using it on my reef tank, then decided not to. For a pond, yes, but for a tank, I don't believe it's really necessary.

To clarify my point, firstly, for controlling ich with fish in the tank, you need to get ALL the ich parasites to go through the UV. However, fact is, some of the tormonts may likely leave the host fish while the fish is hiding in its favorite caves. These tormonts then attach to the substrate, sand, rock, etc IN that cave and very likely OUTSIDE of the water column. They then divide into hundreds of tormites, and these tormites will very likely attach to the same fish when it comes back to its cave. Thus, this renders the UV very ineffective.

Secondly, when you remove your fish to the hospital tank, the parasites are eradicated by medicine, and water changes. The main tank runs fallow, you can remove the parasites by regularly siphoning the substrate and partially change the water, the remaining parasites without a host will die off anyway. Again, here, the UV is NOT needed.

In short, why not UV?
1/ The aforementioned reason.
2/ What a UV can do, you can do with other means with equally success by not over feeding, lighting schedule, water changes, good water parameters, etc. You have to do this anyway without a UV
3/ The initial cost for a good UV is not cheap, and you need to change the bulb at least once a year to keep it effective, and they're also not cheap:splitspin

But of course, if you talk to a fish store owner, he sure enough will convince you to buy one. Well, that's his business to sell you stuffs.

Yen

I'm gonna play the same numbers you do for Mega Millions this week. You're either very lucky, very trusting, or just plain see the glass as half full. Get ALL the ich parasite to go through the UV :banghead: And the pope's little skull cap means he converted to Judaism. :rolleyes:

swimmer
 
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2slo4me

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Actually most people use UV filters to kill the ich parasite (amongst other uses). The ich cyst can settle in the sandbed, LR, etc and can't pass through the UV until they hatch. This is all part of eradicating ich. Run fallow for 6-8 weeks (no fish whatsoever in the display) with the UV running. The ich cyst cycle will run and the cysts that haven't hatched will all have the opportunity to hatch in the 6-8 week period. The ich parasite cannot survive without a host (fish). Therefore, the parasite can't attach to a fish to propagate new cysts and the parasite passes through the UV and dies or just dies because of no host. The 8 weeks of fallow gives all the potential cysts on the LR or sandbed to hatch and die without laying new eggs (cysts).

Hope this wasn't confusing.

As for the Odyssea UV, I hate to say this, but for the most part, when you buy something in the reefkeeping hobby, you get what you pay for. In this case, cheap price correlates to cheap product. There are much better UV Sterilizers on the market.

Russ


What would be the pros and cons??? I mean if i buy a cheaper UV like the one on the link what could go wrong besides the bulb dieing out quicker??? also have you personally ever run an Odyssea UV if so what was your experience? Did something go wrong or break?

TIA eddie
 

Domboski

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If you look closely they have 18w and 35 watt uvs as well. which would be best for a 75 gallon and 90 gallon ?

For 75 gallons (assuming that is the total system volume) I would recommend at least a 30 watt UV with a flow through rate of about 115 GPH. However you could get away with 25 watts at a 75 GPH flow rate but that is the absolute minimum (note you are only turning over your tank volume once an hour).

For 90 gallons (again assuming that is your total system volume) I recommend at least a 30 watt UV being fed at a 135 GPH rate. You could get away with 25 watts at 90 GPH (again only turning your tank over once an hour).
 
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2slo4me

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For 75 gallons (assuming that is the total system volume) I would recommend at least a 30 watt UV with a flow through rate of about 115 GPH. However you could get away with 25 watts at a 75 GPH flow rate but that is the absolute minimum (note you are only turning over your tank volume once an hour).

For 90 gallons (again assuming that is your total system volume) I recommend at least a 30 watt UV being fed at a 135 GPH rate. You could get away with 30 watts at 90 GPH (again only turning your tank over once an hour).


thanks for the info much appreciated.... now trying to compare the cheap odyssea uv to a more expensive one.. i want to weigh my options...
 

Salty Dog

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I have a 57w on my system and its on 24/7. When I started my tank I read many articles on UV lights that benifit the system. My tank has been running for 8 months now and seems to be doing well. I have a few very hard to keep items ( fish& coral) that been thriving .

I belive in UV lights for sure period.
 

Domboski

No Coral Here
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thanks for the info much appreciated.... now trying to compare the cheap odyssea uv to a more expensive one.. i want to weigh my options...

I just re-read my post and realized I made a mistake on the minimum watts for a 90 gallon. I made an adjustment to my post but a 25 watt UV at 90GPH would be the min on a 90 gallon system. Sorry about that :eek:
 

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