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AlohaTropics

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Hey Albino,

I do have a 72" Solarpod 5 from Wingo that I'm using (kinda test phase) on my 200gal. I actually am a Sunbrite Retailer now and my showroom will have all Sunbrite fixtures. I'm waiting on the Gen2 Bulbs to come in from the manufacturer right now, should be about 10 days. My showroom will be running 3 36" fixtures on the Show Tank and 2 48" fixtures and 2 72" fixtures on frag tanks. That will be 7 fixtures all together. I will also be running the new SPS UV light on one of the 72" frag tanks. This 390nm bulb has shown great results in coloration and overall health of SPS and other corals that are naturally found at shallow levels where UV has penetrated. I will have an open house for all to come and see everything in action in about 4 weeks. Stay tuned!
 

rookie07

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Location
Midwest
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The sunbrite is cheaper, but im not sure if it comes with a controller that is comparable to the AI controller.
AI seems to cost $2400
Sunbrite would cost $1800+/-

Sunbrite LED's claim about 8 years, AI claims about 10 years

So, for a slightly higher cost(30%), you get a slightly longer bulb, and a better controller.

Sunbrite allows you to pick and choose your bulbs, but AI is totally adjustable between completely white and completely blue...AI seems to be better again

Sunbrite claims that AI has "dead spots" or potential "low light" areas b/c of location of LED's, Sunbrite has even light across...Sunbrite wins this one.

Please correct me if im wrong
 
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pmoneyt

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brooklyn
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Rookie go with the AI unit, if you find you have a dead spot just add one more unit for a total of 5 on your 120.

I would how ever turn down the brightness so you don't bleach your coral. You could also raise up the unite for more coverage.
 

Marteen

Meow?
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New York, NY
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From what I've read on RC and NR about the sunbrite system the jury is still out on how effective it is for growing corals, actual user results vary significantly from the results reported by the manufacturer. The gen 2 sunbright tubes may be better but we won't know till they come out. On the other hand the LEDs in the AI system have been proven to work with PAR measurements and charted coral growth rates.

Here I linked a thread from RC that talks about some peoples experiences with sunbrite good and bad:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1538174&perpage=25&highlight=LED%20exotics&pagenumber=4
 
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AlohaTropics

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Location
Long Island
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From what I've read on RC and NR about the sunbrite system the jury is still out on how effective it is for growing corals, actual user results vary significantly from the results reported by the manufacturer. The gen 2 sunbright tubes may be better but we won't know till they come out. On the other hand the LEDs in the AI system have been proven to work with PAR measurements and charted coral growth rates.

Here I linked a thread from RC that talks about some peoples experiences with sunbrite good and bad:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1538174&perpage=25&highlight=LED%20exotics&pagenumber=4

Here are your PAR measurements.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iD5yy0RDwxQ


This is another article posted in Reef Builders:

http://www.reefbuilders.com/2009/04/14/sunbrite-lighting-system-rethinking-implement-aquarium-leds/

I will be testing the Gen2 Bulbs on my frag tanks very soon and I will also be testing the new 390nm SPS UV light that have said to show amazing color and growth. Look for a Sunbrite Test thread to come soon!
 

dickenscd

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Location
Great Neck
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I will definitely go with LED for home tank if money is not a problem. The coral florecent color under LED night mode can not be matched by any other florecent lights such as VHO, PC or T5.

I am very impressed by AI fixtures, and I think it is the best choice if you want to buy it now.

I paid almost $4,000.- for 72" Solaris I4 in Dec. 2007, and if you can buy an used I4 or I5 at 1/3 of it's origional price, go for it. I had power supply and bulb problems, but you can get replacement from several resources.

Please post your pictures at the following site if you have any tank with LED light.


http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/tank-threads/60249-tanks-corals-led-lighting.html

James
 
Rating - 99.1%
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Can you speak to the accounts of people stating that the sunbrite lamps lose significant par after 6-12 months of use? Also, to the washing out of SPS?


The loosing of PAR after 6months - 12months is due to thermal overrun-when a led is run at highest possible rate (hence high lumence or PAR) at room temperature, heat builds up in the tube. It's characteristic of the LED that it will lower it's resistance and let more current pass thru at higher temperature. So it over drive itself further(hence further higher PAR initially than normal) past the safety point and the bulb die out prematurely. I believe the same issue goes with the earlier version of Solaris that have LEDs bulbs went out prematurely.

Solution is to get the bulbs that are designed properly that starts off at lower than optimal rate or a tube that has very good heat sink. Straw hat type LEDs(used in the ones shown in the link) will not function right long term when packed so tightly in T5 and T8 tube environment. You will need bulbs that are SMD or Power LEDs with heat sink. 48" using SMD bulbs with aluminum casing as heat sink are about $150 each.
 
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Rating - 99.1%
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I am not building anything.
I want to buy a great LED sytem.
The aquaillumination has a great controller on it, and it will simulate actual 24 hour cycles, and do moon/sun cycles based on the day in the month...can anyone touch that?

My DMX version can let you do ANY pogramming you want. Gradual fade in and out of individual color, 24/7 operation, lunar cycle over the year, some crazy lighting situation you wished to have like taking it out and make it into a strobe light for a party. LOL

Dr. Wagner has one of that. If he wish to, he can control even the house light and other DMX controllable equipement in the house including the security system.

The controller is a PC(well a MAC), so he can actually control it even while he is on vacation. It can also be run stand alone meaning he can take his MacBook to vacation and the light is still running under the program he chose earlier.
 
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Rating - 99.1%
225   2   0
Rookie go with the AI unit, if you find you have a dead spot just add one more unit for a total of 5 on your 120.

I would how ever turn down the brightness so you don't bleach your coral. You could also raise up the unite for more coverage.
For 48" tank and his intended purchase of the AI 4 x 90W, there is no way to have a dead spot, the top of the tank is covered full of the modules(hence LEDs) unless the depth is like 48" as well.

Rookie,
BTW, 4x90W LED of a 48" tank is a lot of light. What's the dimension of your tank?
 

rookie07

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Location
Midwest
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Wingo, I should have know to talk to you.

Tank is oceanic 120(LxWxH=48"x24"x24")

All types of corals.
SPS on top(approx. 11" below water, 18" below lights)
Other corals are far enough down to not get bleached by high lighting
 

rehype

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Location
Somerset,NJ
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+1 to the aquaillumination modules. I have 2 over my 39 gallon and I must say I've been nothing but impressed. I just ordered the profilux controller to get the most out of my system.
 

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