aznt1217

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Hello Everybody,

I've been working on this 125 forever and am just finishing plumbing up. But I have a quick question on placement. I'm on a 2nd floor and I want to double check.

OKAY LETS DO THIS AGAIN.

photo30.jpg


My Floor is running Perpendicular to the tank... is this right?! That wall seperates my apartment and my neighbors so I am almost positive it's load bearing and concrete if anything.

I know ideally, it should be on a load bearing wall running perpendicular to the floor joists.

n16404339_32306786_6315.jpg


My floors are running.... perpendicular to the floor joists (I believe).... now I have the tank placed up against that corner of the room to where my table used to be... is that right?

I'll post a picture up later tonight as well... but wanted some early ideas.
 
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mluz

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A gallon of water weighs about 8Lbs. x 125 gallons = 1000Lbs. before you add any rock or sand. i would make sure the floor can take that load.

I'm on the second floor also so i went with a 75 gal with about 25 gallons in the sump to be safe. Plus rock, sand etc.
 

TRIGGERMAN

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A gallon of water weighs about 8Lbs. x 125 gallons = 1000Lbs. before you add any rock or sand. i would make sure the floor can take that load.

I'm on the second floor also so i went with a 75 gal with about 25 gallons in the sump to be safe. Plus rock, sand etc.
yes BUT it's not 125 gals of water because rock sand and fish all displace it it will probably be 90-100 gallons of water but regardless the entire load will prob weigh in the 1200+ range you also have to account for stand,sump, equipment etc. That doesn't look like 6 feet of space though Ted..or is it a 4 foot 120?

Now that I look again I thought you meant that you had a table in that open space..did you mean you moved that desk? I'm sure the tank will look great and if you need a hand let me know neighbor!
 

KathyC

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They do tend to install floorboards perpendicular to floor joists.
Meaning the wall you have have chosen is not necessarily a good choice as the outer wall (the one with the windows is definitely a load bearing wall), so the joists on the wall you did choose -are running parallel to that wall.
The wall opposite the windows would be a better choice.

Why do you believe the wall between you & your neighbor would necessarily be a load bearing wall??
Is there a stairwell near your apt? That would have load bearing walls on either side of it. Where the peaks are on the roof of the buildings will also help give you a clue (usually).

Can you possibly ask the building super?

..and if Russ (Masterswimmer) drops by later tonight - when he is usually on the prowl - he will correct anything I have said ..in case I am wrong ;)
 
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aznt1217

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I asked for the floor plans from the management company but man... I'm trying to avoid telling them I want to put a huge aquarium in my house lol. He should be getting back to me soon though.

- I figured it would be running parallel to the joists...crap. I figured this wall is load bearing because this entire wall goes from my house... to my parents... to the garage below my parents... and into the floor. Plus I knocked on it and it sounds pretty darn solid lol.

- I'll be using a stud finder tomorrow... but I am not sure of what studs to find lol.

- I can definitely run it on the wall opposite my window but I don't think the wall is load bearing as it separates my room from the living room and kitchen.
 

KathyC

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I asked for the floor plans from the management company but man... I'm trying to avoid telling them I want to put a huge aquarium in my house lol. He should be getting back to me soon though.

- I figured it would be running parallel to the joists...crap. I figured this wall is load bearing because this entire wall goes from my house... to my parents... to the garage below my parents... and into the floor. Plus I knocked on it and it sounds pretty darn solid lol.

- I'll be using a stud finder tomorrow... but I am not sure of what studs to find lol.

- I can definitely run it on the wall opposite my window but I don't think the wall is load bearing as it separates my room from the living room and kitchen.

All of the walls should (better!) have studs in them or you have a bigger issue than just where to place your tank! lol

I also doubt the wall opposite the window is load bearing - but at least the floor joists run the the direction you are aiming for!

Is this the only room you have available that the tank can be set up in?

Any access to that attic space above your apt?
 

aznt1217

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Actually... I am asking for the floor plans because I am renovating my attic this summer. I guess I'll wait for the floor plans to be safe.

Which is better... putting it on a load bearing or multiple joists. I was going to look for studs from the bottom floor up to mine. Not 100% sure.

This is the only room that will fit this ginormous tank, till I hit the lotto or something.
 

KathyC

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Actually... I am asking for the floor plans because I am renovating my attic this summer. I guess I'll wait for the floor plans to be safe.

Which is better... putting it on a load bearing or multiple joists. I was going to look for studs from the bottom floor up to mine. Not 100% sure.

This is the only room that will fit this ginormous tank, till I hit the lotto or something.

You have access to the attic?! - great - is it unfinished? Can you take a few pics of the space up there - particularly the area above that room?
 

masterswimmer

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They do tend to install floorboards perpendicular to floor joists.

I'd definitely like to have you as my GC partner Kath.

What is normally done with the floor boards is exactly as you described. However, since you and I didn't install the oak ourselves, it is entirely possible (and incorrect I might add) that someone used plywood underlayment on top of the floor joists and screw/plugged the oak into the plywood parallel to the joists. The correct way to install hardwood flooring is to run the plywood underlayment (I like 1/2"-3/4" plywood) perpendicular to the floor joists, then nail or screw the oak hardwood into the plywood running in the same direction as the plywood with a chalkline snapped on the plywood marking each joist. This way the hardwood flooring is nailed/screwed into the plywood AND joists.
Sometimes (if you know what you're looking for) you can see the straight line (pattern) of nails (if the oak is face nailed) right on the oak. In your case, from the pictures you attached, it looks like the oak is blind nailed through the tongue.


KathyC said:
Meaning the wall you have have chosen is not necessarily a good choice as the outer wall (the one with the windows is definitely a load bearing wall), so the joists on the wall you did choose -are running parallel to that wall.
The wall opposite the windows would be a better choice.

I agree with this as well. Although this is more conjecture without seeing blueprints, or the actual construction. If you can get a look in the basement (if there is one) you can find the main load bearing girder or any other load bearing posts & girders.


KathyC said:
Why do you believe the wall between you & your neighbor would necessarily be a load bearing wall??
Is there a stairwell near your apt? That would have load bearing walls on either side of it. Where the peaks are on the roof of the buildings will also help give you a clue (usually).

Not knowing the construction period and building code when built, I can't say anything about the common wall between apartments. Code today for condominiums requires a firewall between apartments. Depending upon quality of construction, the firewall can be as extensive as a concrete block wall running from the foundation slab right to the roof. Needless to say, that type of firewall is a bearing wall.


KathyC said:
Can you possibly ask the building super?

I would be surprised if the building super DIDN'T have a set of prints. Tough to do any detailed work without having to do some exploratory 'digging' without them. Or at least saves him time, hence money.

KathyC said:
..and if Russ (Masterswimmer) drops by later tonight - when he is usually on the prowl - he will correct anything I have said ..in case I am wrong ;)

ehhh, big deal, masterswimmer is on. Don't mean squat. lol You got everything nailed down without me :) Great job.

Get us some reliable prints and we can give you definitive answers.

Sorry for being so vague. I need more concrete evidence to be more committal.

Russ
 

aznt1217

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Yea I hear you om the concrete evidence. So I have to add I actually put hardwood floor... On top of the original hardwood floor.

My complex was built in the 1950's. I don't have a basement. If I go downstairs I can use my stud finder via my parents ceiling. I'll see what the floor plan has. Hopefully I get it soon... But then again I haven't even finished building my plumbing nor have i got my light yet lol.

speaking of which... Russ, can you pm me as to what happened with those LEDs we discussed.
 

aznt1217

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I can't believe it... there are no floor plans for my building. NONE EXIST whatsoever. I called the real estate management company. He said my best bet is to ask the super to basically utilize his experience.

I really want to utilize this as a last resort because I can't stand the guy lol
 

darkdrako

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Is your building and the neighbors buildings attached and is there one attached to each side of your house? If you have buildings on both sides then it is more likely to have a masonry fire partition seperating the buildings. These provide support for the floor joists without having to provide a seperate bearing wall. You can also tell if it is masonry by going outside and looking at your roof. If you see a wall penetrating your roof line where the two building meet then it is block. You cannot have a fire party wall made of wood construction, penetrate your roof.

The 1938 Building code did not require a fire party wall to be built of non-combustible materials. It only needed to have a 2-hr seperation, so it could still be built as wood with fire rated (asbestos) boards.

Also, is your house wider or deeper? The joists are run in the short direction most of the time.
 
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