ro/di straight to tank

[o0jmadr0x0o]

how unsafe would it be to go from my ro unit to my sump with a solenoid valve on the on the clean water line?
i think i can hook up my float switches and the solenoid to my reefkeeper so that it can only be on 30m twice a day . would this work reliably?

 

[ming]

so you keep the water on, but the output of the clean water is closed from the solenoid?
I suppose that may work assuming you have an auto shut off valve, otherwise it'll keep flowing out of the waste line.
Hopefully a switch doesn't get stuck on and keep making RO water.. unless you're sticking to 30 mins a day, which may be a little too much or too little each day, and day after day may overflow your sump
Also, the first minute of water is usually the dirtiest.

 

[masterswimmer]

Also, the first minute of water is usually the dirtiest.

+1 (but I'd say the first 3-5 minutes is gunked up water)

The biggest problem with this type of setup, IMO, is that the RO/DI would run for such a short time each day that the percentage of good quality RO/DI water would be tainted by the initial 'gunked up' output it would be almost as bad as using straight tap water.

Again, JMO

Russ

 

[tosiek]

I've been running my RO straight to the tank using a float valve since like forever, no solenoid just a float valve. Works perfect, and I haven't noticed a raise in TDS or Po4 at all from whatever sits in the RO then gets turned on. But i'm not checking for metals, chlorines or anything else though. I'm using a booster pump as well in the setup. From what i was told the RODI is on often enough to keep the water clean. It usually pops on for a bit to repressurize the tubes every hour or few for about 5-15 mins. I haven't had a problem with Po4, algae or anything else and its been set up for 2 years. Maybe if i only used the RODI once or twice a week i could see there being a build up of gunk in the system but so far i haven't seen a thing on the TDS. I dunno, maybe im missing something and don't know enough about it.

I do go through filters more often than most people and try to keep them fresh when i can because it not only drops my production but screws with my booster pump on and off intervals. I change out my filters every 3-4 months, and my RO membrane every 6-8 months if i remember. We get backflushes of bad water from the street line that does a number on my filters.

Other than that the float valve always stays clean and free so there is no clogging. I just recently changed it after 2 years and i really didn't have to except for peace of mind. Me running a solenoid on a float switch system complicated the process too much and Murphy's Law has it in for me which is why i didn't do it that way.

And make sure your RODI has a auto shut off. A Quick flush valve helps alot too.

 

[bad coffee]

There are reports of people blowing out their RO membrane doing what you're doing. I'm betting they have higher initial TDS than the 30-40 we have in NYC, though.

B

 

[tosiek]

I heard about those too. The two threads i seen on RC about it didn't chang their membrane for like 2+ years and were running 75psi through their RODI for a membrane specced for 50 =0)

The way im doing it is probably not perfect but I don't have the space for enough water to sit around for daily or weekly top offs, nor the patience. It hasn't failed me yet *knocks on wood* and so far its been 1 less thing to worry about in the tank.

 

[geldof]

I make RO/DI to FW reservoir using a float switch. Works fine and same idea as dosing direct to a sump. I have never noticed a rise in TDS on the output.

 

[cali_reef]

A RO unit's initial flow will not be as clean as it can be, DI will take care of that, provided it is not gunk up already. Operating your RO\DI unit for short periods is not as efficient as it can be, as the DI will be working hard to remove the extra TDS.

tosiek, a float valve at the sump will not stop the inflow of water to the RO filter, you need a mechanical device called "solenoid", it is operated by water flow\pressure at the output port of the RO and shouts off the input water supply. Without it, the waste water will continue to run but not producing any clean RO water.

Running a RO|DI to a sump using a simple float valve seem like a good way to flood your place and potentially kill the tank in the process.

 

[Buckeye Field Supply]

Running the RODI to a float valve in the sump is not an ideal configuration. Best to set the system up so that when it kicks on, it stays on for a relatively long period of time rather than cycling on and off everytime the sump evaporates an 1/8" of water.

Lots of pretty easy ways to do this - I like the very simple ways that don't rely on electronics best.

Russ

 

[gatojebv]

This is the way I have it and seems to be working fine for 6 months. A solenoid valve that turns on daily for about 30 minutes on the input of the RO/DI filter. The RO/DI filter fills a 3-gallon(A little more than my tank evaporates in the hottest day) container above my sump with a float valve that will trigger the RO/DI automatic shut-off valve.
This container is connected to the sump with another float valve to keep the water sump level. Because it is very unlikely that the solenoid, RO/DI automatic shut off and the two float valves fail at the same time the most I could add to my sump is a complete three gallons of water a day that would not have much of a negative effect.

 

[tosiek]

Now you guys are making me rethink ways to add a FW res. into my top off system to make my wierd top off method better.

 

[TRIGGERMAN]

What about mixing salt into that water? How did no one catch that part?

 

[TripleT]

What about mixing salt into that water? How did no one catch that part?

You mean adding salt to replace evaporated water?

 

[TRIGGERMAN]

yea..salt creep is salt from the evaporated water so you lose salt and minerals also obviously.

 

[TripleT]

how unsafe would it be to go from my ro unit to my sump with a solenoid valve on the on the clean water line?
i think i can hook up my float switches and the solenoid to my reefkeeper so that it can only be on 30m twice a day . would this work reliably?

I bet it would work great... until it doesn't. And then it will kill your tank.

I'd keep it is simple and foolproof as possible.

And if you're looking for a compact, cheap, and convenient means to store extra water:

http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2622483

Holds 5 gallons, about $13.

 

[TripleT]

yea..salt creep is salt from the evaporated water so you lose salt and minerals also obviously.

You must have one creepy tank. :biggrin:

 

[TRIGGERMAN]

well I did very bad recently because I was running an air pump to accomodate extra livestock I was holding. The bubbles made salt get everywhere..BUT When I had my biocube up I would constantly get salt creep from having the top on it and any other tank with a glass top will get creep from evaporation also. I'm guessing your tank is topless?

 

[TripleT]

well I did very bad recently because I was running an air pump to accomodate extra livestock I was holding. The bubbles made salt get everywhere..BUT When I had my biocube up I would constantly get salt creep from having the top on it and any other tank with a glass top will get creep from evaporation also. I'm guessing your tank is topless?

I've got a FOWLR tank, glass canopy. I get a little salt creep around the back edges. Never enough to affect the salinity. I'd have to go for many months without a water change in order for my salinity to drop noticeably.


The biggest impact your air pump was having on your system was the salt creep. To aerate your water, good flow coupled with surface agitation works best. Aim your sump return or a powerhead close enough to the water's surface to make some gentle ripples.


If you have a sump, most also contribute greatly to air exchange.

 

[jf2381]

I'm setting up my Auto topoff in a similar way, but I'm using two solenoid valve.

One will be running during the day and the other during the night feeding my kalk stirrer. I'm using two float switches. One will trigger an email alert from my Apex. I work about 5 miles away. If something goes wrong I can be home in no time.

With that being said...I don't know if I would trust this setup while I'm away on vacation or traveling for work.