Bilk

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Thanks. I think I'll give them a try. Filter housings are filter housings and standard sizes. I guess the filter media can always be switched out if I'm not happy, after they're exhausted.

I just bought a 6 stage rodi from pure water club for 109.00 including shipping unit is constructed nicely and water is reading 0 tds
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strgazr27

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There has to be a reason for the lower cost. From pictures and a little reading the fittings look cheaper than other units as well as the tubing. Why 2 DI units? Perhaps sub par media requiring 2 of them to reach 0 TDS? The cost is appealing but I question the quality. Also see only 1 clear media canister. Auto shut off doesn't look as nice as other units.

Is the savings worth the long term health of your setup? RODI water can make a huge difference is algal control and coral health. I would like to see more reviews before I jumped at saving a few dollars.

JMO's
 

Bilk

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I agree that the health of the tank is paramount, but the fittings and tubing? Come on. As long as they don't leak, that's not an issue. I think in terms of cost, even if they too need to be changed, we're talking pennies.

The filter media is what counts here. They utilize a TFC membrane. Pretty standard from what I can tell. Two DI is fine by me. They actually have a seven stage with an additional activated carbon filter to further polish the water.

I don't see how much variation there can possible be in something that is so simple in mechanics and operation. The only issue I have is some of their units say "coconut carbon filter". I wouldn't use that. Activated is the only way to go. The cartridge sizes are all standard and can be replaced with what ever the higher priced units use.

There has to be a reason for the lower cost. From pictures and a little reading the fittings look cheaper than other units as well as the tubing. Why 2 DI units? Perhaps sub par media requiring 2 of them to reach 0 TDS? The cost is appealing but I question the quality. Also see only 1 clear media canister. Auto shut off doesn't look as nice as other units.

Is the savings worth the long term health of your setup? RODI water can make a huge difference is algal control and coral health. I would like to see more reviews before I jumped at saving a few dollars.

JMO's
 

strgazr27

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The OP asked for opinions and I gave mine. Obviously your happy with yours and that's what counts. Also likely the reason your so defensive of it. Yes, cheap plastic fittings can/do crack over time along with the tubing. I guess there is only one type of plastic made nowadays? Knock into one of those fittings on accident and see if they hold up. Yours didn't leak so I guess they all won't leak? At least one gentleman had to re-assemble his whole unit to get it working correctly. I prefer clear housings to see the condition of my media. No pressure gauge and no provision for flushing the membranes. If you think keeping an eye on pressure drops or increases isn't important that's fine but its' an important part of keeping production up and constant.

I still ask WHY the use of 2 DI units? Almost every other high priced unit only uses 1.

There can be quite a bit of variation. Materials used as well as media included can be a big difference.

Your happy obviously and that's what matters to you. As I said the OP looked for information and I provided it.

As I said I'm all for saving money in this hobby but not at the expense of the tank. If they work as advertised that's great. I would just like to see more than a single POV on them before making the purchase.

I agree that the health of the tank is paramount, but the fittings and tubing? Come on. As long as they don't leak, that's not an issue. I think in terms of cost, even if they too need to be changed, we're talking pennies.

The filter media is what counts here. They utilize a TFC membrane. Pretty standard from what I can tell. Two DI is fine by me. They actually have a seven stage with an additional activated carbon filter to further polish the water.

I don't see how much variation there can possible be in something that is so simple in mechanics and operation. The only issue I have is some of their units say "coconut carbon filter". I wouldn't use that. Activated is the only way to go. The cartridge sizes are all standard and can be replaced with what ever the higher priced units use.
 

James404

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I will chime in here on this, my first rodi was the six stage unit from purewaterclub. Right off the bat the system had several leaks, I was able to redo some fittings to get it tolerable. It still leaked a little bit, I used to hook it up to my kitchen faucet only when needed and kept the unit in a rubbermaid bucket. It was ok while we were living in an apartment. Once we moved into a house I took that opportunity to get a better unit from thefilterguys.

Some things to consider, the membranes are of lesser quality than some of the other units out there. Also the horizontal style of the canisters are way less efficient when compared to vertical. You will get 0 TDS water out of it though, you may go through DI resin quicker.

If you are on a really tight budget it will work but the more expensive units are definitely worth it IMO.
 
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Bilk

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I was the OP and haven't made a purchase yet. However I do like to research things before I buy. An RO/DI unit is easy to assemble and install. All of the parts are readily available.

It seems this has become a home industry because of the readily available components. The marketing of RO/DI to the reef community has fostered higher prices because, well, they believe we tend to have more disposable income because of the nature of the hobby. I kind of resent that attitude. A filter housing is a filter housing. Sure I'll bet one is somewhat better than the next, but the cost differential is minimal. I've checked. The filter media is what does count as you have admitted. However most of the media is not proprietary. So one can use different filters they feel provide better results.

Now with all that said, after researching the purchase of the components separately vs buying a pre-assemble unit, that I may have to tighten the unions on, it appears the latter may be the best route given the costs. The mfgs. of these units get bulk discounts on the housings and parts. Just like tank builders get glass cheaper. The cost to home build is usually not much if any savings.

I also found I can buy the exact same inline DS monitor for $28, that many of the high end RO/DI units have. The dual monitor is $50. So for about $130, give or take, I get what others are charging +-$300 for. I work hard for my money and don't like to give it away.

I wonder why you seem to be taking this topic so personally. You have a vested interest in RO/DI sales?

The OP asked for opinions and I gave mine. Obviously your happy with yours and that's what counts. Also likely the reason your so defensive of it. Yes, cheap plastic fittings can/do crack over time along with the tubing. I guess there is only one type of plastic made nowadays? Knock into one of those fittings on accident and see if they hold up. Yours didn't leak so I guess they all won't leak? At least one gentleman had to re-assemble his whole unit to get it working correctly. I prefer clear housings to see the condition of my media. No pressure gauge and no provision for flushing the membranes. If you think keeping an eye on pressure drops or increases isn't important that's fine but its' an important part of keeping production up and constant.

I still ask WHY the use of 2 DI units? Almost every other high priced unit only uses 1.

There can be quite a bit of variation. Materials used as well as media included can be a big difference.

Your happy obviously and that's what matters to you. As I said the OP looked for information and I provided it.

As I said I'm all for saving money in this hobby but not at the expense of the tank. If they work as advertised that's great. I would just like to see more than a single POV on them before making the purchase.
 

Bilk

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Appreciate your input James. I read the various threads regarding these units on the net. Some good some not so good.

I did state the filter media may or may not be of issue, but they can be swapped out as needed. From what I can see the media is not proprietary save a few - IE. GE's new system and Sears Kenmoore system.

As for the orientation of the filter media, I guess only testing can prove otherwise, but I don't believe it matters much if any. Even some of the expensive systems have the DI cell mounted horizontally. The system is under pressure, thus providing for full contact along all surfaces. However if this were to be an issue, simply changing the orientation of the DI cell would be easy enough to accomplish.

Regarding the connections working out of the box - I assume every recipient of a new tank checks it for water-tightness before loading it with livestock. I suspect the same is deserving of a new RO unit. I think most any of us would be capable of making the necessary adjustments.

I will chime in here on this, my first rodi was the six stage unit from purewaterclub. Right off the bat the system had several leaks, I was able to redo some fittings to get it tolerable. It still leaked a little bit, I used to hook it up to my kitchen faucet only when needed and kept the unit in a rubbermaid bucket. It was ok while we were living in an apartment. Once we moved into a house I took that opportunity to get a better unit from thefilterguys.

Some things to consider, the membranes are of lesser quality than some of the other units out there. Also the horizontal style of the canisters are way less efficient when compared to vertical. You will get 0 TDS water out of it though, you may go through DI resin quicker.

If you are on a really tight budget it will work but the more expensive units are definitely worth it IMO.
 

James404

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Appreciate your input James. I read the various threads regarding these units on the net. Some good some not so good.

I did state the filter media may or may not be of issue, but they can be swapped out as needed. From what I can see the media is not proprietary save a few - IE. GE's new system and Sears Kenmoore system.

As for the orientation of the filter media, I guess only testing can prove otherwise, but I don't believe it matters much if any. Even some of the expensive systems have the DI cell mounted horizontally. The system is under pressure, thus providing for full contact along all surfaces. However if this were to be an issue, simply changing the orientation of the DI cell would be easy enough to accomplish.

Regarding the connections working out of the box - I assume every recipient of a new tank checks it for water-tightness before loading it with livestock. I suspect the same is deserving of a new RO unit. I think most any of use would be capable of making the necessary adjustments.

No problem at all, mine did come with a few extra fittings so it was easy to get the leaks to stop with some teflon tape added. It will definitely get the job done. I used mine for a year with no problems.
 

strgazr27

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Not taking the topic personally, just your initial sarcastic comment about the tubing and fittings. You took my concern for you possibly wasting your hard earned money as a put down. ;) As far as my ties to a RODI MANUFACTURER.... I'm an Airways Transportation Safety Specialist with the FAA. ;)

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InfernoST

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IMO, clear canisters are a must along with the Dual tds meter, flush feature and pressure guage. On another note they use dual DI units when your water source has very high tds's and are suppose to be mounted vertically not horizontally in order to get the full benefit of the resin.
 

fishman1069

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I got a 5 stage unit from filterdirect.com. Its a water general with a built in pressure gauge, clear housings and 2 di chambers. I have had it up and running for 2 years, without changing the filters, and its still reading 1ppm TDS. It was $150 shipped to my door. FYI
 

NYreefNoob

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bought mine on ebay 6 years ago and still works like a charm. only down side is not having a clear tube on the di but checking the output lets me know when it needs changed, best $109 ive spent oh and only thing i had changed in 6 years was the filters a couple times and never the membrane and checked was only 7 on tds. not great but 6 years and thousands of gallons ran through it is pretty good for a cheapo membrane.
just like most equiptment in this hobby, there really are only a handful of manufacture's, but alot of re-named stuff, because one carries a know name does that make it better then the non-named one ? esoecially seeing it came from same plant
 

Bilk

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Now that looks like a decent system at a decent price. I like the configuration better than that of the one I posted in the OP. Thanks.

I think there's one thing people fail to realize regarding these units, most all of the hard components are the same in one way or another - clear vs opaque canister, etc. One may or may not have a pressure gauge, but that doesn't make it operate better. It's the replaceable filter media that does the work. Additionally, since the system is pressurized, the horizontal orientation of the DI media really doesn't matter. It's like believing the water in your pipes at home only comes from the top side of the pipe. It's a closed system where the hydraulic pressure is equal over an equal area. The water moving through the media at the top is the same as the bottom. Gravity has little effect and it will only channel if the media isn't packed sufficiently. Then the water will pass over the top if it settles.

Well thanks for that site. I think I'll order and get the dual meter, though that certainly isn't necessary either.
 

Bilk

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Good to hear. Actually I'm pretty amazed by this whole RO/DI thing LOL I've searched ebay as well and have seen the same item on a mfgs. site that they're selling on ebay for 15% less with free shipping and some extra stuff such as a holding tank. Now that's what I call a deal LOL.

Yes most off of the components come from China and the same plant. RO/DI systems are as basic a system as you can get. There isn't much to them. The only thing that makes one better than the next is the filter media. The stuff that's actually doing the work and they are pretty much standardized and can be placed in any mfgs. filter. All these mfgs. did was assemble components and it's a pretty simple assembly at that.

There are some really specialized systems that have proprietary filters, but they're overkill for home use and our needs.

bought mine on ebay 6 years ago and still works like a charm. only down side is not having a clear tube on the di but checking the output lets me know when it needs changed, best $109 ive spent oh and only thing i had changed in 6 years was the filters a couple times and never the membrane and checked was only 7 on tds. not great but 6 years and thousands of gallons ran through it is pretty good for a cheapo membrane.
just like most equiptment in this hobby, there really are only a handful of manufacture's, but alot of re-named stuff, because one carries a know name does that make it better then the non-named one ? esoecially seeing it came from same plant
 

ecvernon

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i bought my purewater club ro/di about 6 years ago. no leaks, no complaints.... i didnt see the need for clear canister as long i was getting 0 tds.only thing is when i bought mines it came with in-line di canisters they did not work to well though. i replaced mine with add on from bulk \reefsupply
 

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