What is the basic necessities for a QT tank?

[jdnumis]

I am looking to do something simple like a 10 gallon. I just don't know what I need for it.

Couple of pieces of live rock?
What kind of filteration?
powerhead?

Or does anyone have one for sale with everything I need?

Thank you

~James

Knock on wood, I did not need one yet, but I would rather be safe than sorry

 

[jdnumis]

bump

 

[JonnyJ]

I would go with a 20 gallon tank to help keep things more stable and allow for some extra space for some of the larger species.

You would need
Tank, Filter [Hang on back, I suggest a AC30 or higher],Quality heater [i set on a timer so it cannot fail to bad on me. if you have a controller that would be best] Large PVC pieces for the fish to hide in, fake coral would work or barnacles as well. Small powerhead would be optional depending on the size tank you choose..

Some people argue against the use of a light but im using a small LED from rio sun during the day. A good cover is good as well, Will help in reducing evaporation and especially if a fish trys to carpet surf.


You do not need live rock in a QT tank, Some people use rocks and some people do not. I currently have some in mine but i will be removing it.

Obviously Copper treatments would ruin the rock and I have read that hyposalinity can put the beneficial bacteria in a suspension like state and of course kill any rock dwelling creatures that could potentially spike your water quality and do more harm than good.

Water changes should be performed as needed. generally every 2-3 days. Testing Ammonia and PH twice a day.

 

[fishman1069]

Basically you want the tank, HOB filter, maybe a small powerhead and some pvc for the fish to hide in. Alot of people put a filter s[ponge in their sump to colonize with bacteria and then transfer that to the QT tank so it dosent have to cycle. If your not in a rush, I would cycle the QT tank the normal way first and then start your QTing. HTH

 

[jdnumis]

Thanks for the advice I just want to keep it simple

 

[masterswimmer]

I would go with a 20 gallon tank to help keep things more stable and allow for some extra space for some of the larger species.

You would need
Tank, Filter [Hang on back, I suggest a AC30 or higher],Quality heater [i set on a timer so it cannot fail to bad on me. if you have a controller that would be best] Large PVC pieces for the fish to hide in, fake coral would work or barnacles as well. Small powerhead would be optional depending on the size tank you choose..

Some people argue against the use of a light but im using a small LED from rio sun during the day. A good cover is good as well, Will help in reducing evaporation and especially if a fish trys to carpet surf.


You do not need live rock in a QT tank, Some people use rocks and some people do not. I currently have some in mine but i will be removing it.

Obviously Copper treatments would ruin the rock and I have read that hyposalinity can put the beneficial bacteria in a suspension like state and of course kill any rock dwelling creatures that could potentially spike your water quality and do more harm than good.

Water changes should be performed as needed. generally every 2-3 days. Testing Ammonia and PH twice a day.

+1

Spot on mate. Very nicely put together

Russ

 

[KathyC]

I mostly agree with the posts above with the following added items/different options...

Tank
Heater
Power-head - small, to provide flow
Air Pump & Air stone (invaluable for fish with compromised gills due to ich/illness)
Lighting - A FW (T8) light is fine for just fish QT. If you are going to be QT'ing corals you need a light that will sustain them.
Test Kits - Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, pH, Copper (if treating ich w/copper)
Tank cover - stressed fish are more inclined to jump
Tank Film - to cover the rear & sides of the tank to help limit view movement around tank
Refractometer - to guarantee proper salinity in the event of hypo-salinity treatment or appropriate salinity for the creatures in the tank
Mechanical Filter - I prefer this far more than a skimmer. It will mechanically filter the tank, removing larger particles and the bio-wheels can be kept floating in your sump (indefinitely) to colonize with bacteria which will help the QT tank with a bio-filter without going through a cycle. If you are simply QT'ing (without meds) the carbon cartridges can also be run OR they can be added when you need to remove any meds.
A filter like this would be my suggestion:
http://www.petco.com/product/2402/Marineland-Penguin-BIO-Wheel-Power-Filters.aspx
PVC pieces - for fish to hide & feel safe
Thermometer - a simple one is fine

 

[jdnumis]

I will keep that in mind thanks Kathy!

 

[Arati]

http://www.reeflounge.com/showthread.php?t=31185


this is what i do, only if the fish is visably infected. otherwise they just hang out for a few weeks under observation.