Stability

[b-ridge]

I checked my tank parameters. Eventhough I've been in the hobby 3 years now I still get puzzled by my results. For those that don't know I have a 240 gallon display tank. Plumbed by a 125 gallon sump and a 75 gallon fuge. I am running a reef octopus 5000 internal. I have 4 fathom Pharos led lights. I have approximately 250-300 pounds of live rock. Maybe more.
Ammonia-0.25
Nitrate-40
Beleive these 2 are high due to a recent fish death in my tank. Didn't take the fish out. Just let the clean up crew do it's thing. Also I have another fish missing. A wrasse. Presumably dead also. Haven't seen him in a few days
Ph-8.2
Cal-508
Alk-130
Phosphate-2.0
Salinity-1.021
Temp-79
I am not running carbon or rowaphos. Took it offline a month ago. Plan on putting it back in rotation Wednesday
Now I know everyone is gonna say water change, water change, water change. I plan on doing this also Wednesday. I am looking for suggestions on how often I should do water changes and how big of a change? And what's the easiest most proficient way of keeping everything in check(stability) on a daily basis

 

[lnevo]

Your salinity is low...1.026

1.021 is line 28ppt which is far from 35ppt where it should be.

I would recommend at least 20% a month. If your tank is 3 years old you should not be seeing ammonia from one or even two or three fish deaths.

 

[arnaldolex]

something so big i would do it in half then the next day the other half you have 400 gallons so if it was me i would do 60 gallons one day then another 60 the next day

 

[b-ridge]

Altogether the total water volume is approximately 320 gallons. That's minus the rocks and sand.
What could be causing the ammonia to go up then?

 

[b-ridge]

I am using instant ocean salt. I plan on upgrading a little to reef crystals. They say it's better

 

[troywalkerphoto]

B you been battling this for quite some time. Its a slow and methodical way that will root out the problem.
1) What are you testing with? What kit?
2) What is your testing cycle? Weekly/bi-weekly/ monthly/ when you get around to it?
3) did you set up a testing log?
A log is helpful as you will have a record of your testing, the tweaks, and the results.
4) How big a reactor do you run for that much water and where is the in and the out on this system for it.
5) Whats your water Flow diagram. (the way the water flows and where) Possible dead zones?
6) Whats your flow between the display, sump, fuge? Is the flow too fast in the fuge? Slow as continuous in the fuge to export nutrients.
7) Maintenance schedule?
8) Finally whos feeding and when? We talked about this. Wifey, kids, you over feeding? What type of food and whats the coral target feeding schedule?
Im headed to The new Central Aqua in the bronx tomorrow 1pm let me know and I will bring the Algae for you. 646.206.3336 text me!

 

[bklynreef]

I checked my tank parameters. Eventhough I've been in the hobby 3 years now I still get puzzled by my results. For those that don't know I have a 240 gallon display tank. Plumbed by a 125 gallon sump and a 75 gallon fuge. I am running a reef octopus 5000 internal. I have 4 fathom Pharos led lights. I have approximately 250-300 pounds of live rock. Maybe more.
Ammonia-0.25
Nitrate-40
Beleive these 2 are high due to a recent fish death in my tank. Didn't take the fish out. Just let the clean up crew do it's thing. Also I have another fish missing. A wrasse. Presumably dead also. Haven't seen him in a few days
Ph-8.2
Cal-508
Alk-130
Phosphate-2.0
Salinity-1.021
Temp-79
I am not running carbon or rowaphos. Took it offline a month ago. Plan on putting it back in rotation Wednesday
Now I know everyone is gonna say water change, water change, water change. I plan on doing this also Wednesday. I am looking for suggestions on how often I should do water changes and how big of a change? And what's the easiest most proficient way of keeping everything in check(stability) on a daily basis

By any chance do you have calurpa in your fuge???
Your PO4 is very high
Salinity should be brought up slowly to 1.026 unless your a fowlr
Do some major water changes every week till whatever it is in your system is out
Cut down on your feedings also. Start over again and slowly.

 

[b-ridge]

I have chaeto that never grows for me for whatever reason. Po4 will be taken care of Wednesday when I order supplies. Will be putting my rowaphos and carbon back online after a major water change. Anywhere between 50-75 gallon water change. I will do another water change Saturday/Sunday after I check my levels again after water change.

 

[bklynreef]

I have chaeto that never grows for me for whatever reason. Po4 will be taken care of Wednesday when I order supplies. Will be putting my rowaphos and carbon back online after a major water change. Anywhere between 50-75 gallon water change. I will do another water change Saturday/Sunday after I check my levels again after water change.

If you bring your PO4 down too fast you'll kill whatever corals you have left in your tank. Take it down slowly unless you don't have any corals then you can do whatever is needed to get your tank back on track.

 

[b-ridge]

No. I have corals. I have to start with 1/3 of the recommended dosage when it comes to the rowaphos. Some say it doesn't work, some say it does. It works for me. It's very powerful. I'm not sure how quickly I can reduce the phosphates in a safe way but at 2.0 I'm sure he rowaphos will have it down to manageable in 2 weeks or less

 

[piranhapat]

Your tank is not stable at all. What test kits did you use? Best to do few water changes. Than test again and wait a few days and start GFO. Bring salinity up. Lower phosphate and nitrates. Hopeful ammonia comes down. Cal is a little high also. Alk is a little low if your planning on SPS down road.

 

[b-ridge]

I used API for ammonia, ph, amd nitrate. All others were done by the Hanna checkers.
I plan on doing a water change tomorrow as well as bringing up the salinity slowly. I will test again on Wednesday/Thursday. If need be I will do another water change and no matter what I am putting my gfo amd carbon back online.
I am still trying to understand the balance between calcium and alk. If one is high the other is usually low. Someone told me that if my magnesium is in a certain range it balances out both cal and alk. Almost like a seesaw. Cal on one side, mag in the middle and alk on the other side. If mag is right everything else will be right

 

[piranhapat]

Are you dosing 2 parts or adding Alk and Cal. If you are make sure you add the same amount even if one is a little higher than other. It will balance out. Mag I never have to add. Its pretty simply once you know what you need to add. But very important to keep salinity stable to desire level. Because that will help you start at right PH and keep your readings better in beginning.

 

[b-ridge]

No I am not dosing anything yet. It's weird because of all the corals and clams I have I would of expected them to consume some sort of alk or cal but when I do my readings there always the same. After my water change tomorrow and bringing the salinity up some I will check both again. I will then check again 2 days later and write down the results. I will do another check 2 days later and that should give me somewhat of a idea if any

 

[Dan_P]

No. I have corals. I have to start with 1/3 of the recommended dosage when it comes to the rowaphos. Some say it doesn't work, some say it does. It works for me. It's very powerful. I'm not sure how quickly I can reduce the phosphates in a safe way but at 2.0 I'm sure he rowaphos will have it down to manageable in 2 weeks or less

I am going to start Phosban on my aquarium soon but wanted to find out what it would do. I put 1 gram in one gallon of tank water and aerated for twenty four hours. It brought the phsosphate down from 0.2 to 0.1 ppm. I addded another 1 gram and aerated another 24 hours. Phosphate was zero with Salifert. There is about 30 grams in 1 ounce of weight. Repeating the test with Rowaphos should answer your question how much how fast.

I am surprised about the ammonia reading. System should have converted ammonia to nitrate. You haven't used antibiotics recently?

Are you bothered with cyano?

 

[b-ridge]

No I haven't used any anti-biotics. Not dealing with anymore cyano after increasing flow.
I am going to go test my ammonia again right now.
So by your calculations and measurements how long would it take to get my phosphate to respectable levels? I don't wanna strip them too quick since I have corals

 

[b-ridge]

Ok. I brought my salinity up. It is now at 1.023. Weird thing is that my ammonia dropped to 0 but my nitrate went up to 80. Water change and vacuum sump and fuge Wednesday is mandatory. Will do a major large water change on Wednesday. Test nitrates after water change. I will recheck nitrates on Saturday and see what they are. As well as my phosphate which the gfo is going back online as well as carbon

 

[Cu455]

In addition to what others said you might also want to add prime and bottled bacteria. Have you ever had ammonia issues or ismit only a reason thing?

 

[Cu455]

That's good. Your nitrates went up because you had a lot of ammonia feeding the cycle. If whatever caused the nitrate spike is gone your nitrates should drop and remain at your normal levels. Did you test nitrites?

 

[Dan_P]

No I haven't used any anti-biotics. Not dealing with anymore cyano after increasing flow.
I am going to go test my ammonia again right now.
So by your calculations and measurements how long would it take to get my phosphate to respectable levels? I don't wanna strip them too quick since I have corals

How much Rowaphos do you plan to put in your reactor?