lets chat about heaters!
- Thread starter meagheavz
- Start date
I use this Heater.... http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3743+12060&pcatid=12060 its unpluged during the summer. Anyone esle use this heater? Ever had a problem i should look out for?
- Location
- NY
I got a nice jolt out of my VisiTherm Stealth. Be scared, be very scared. Stray voltage is no joke.
R
A fireplug on Ranco is what you need..
- Location
- NY
Pierce my brotha, Rancos are great for protecting the failed heating tube. They don't stop the tube from failing though.
Hey, you're the engineer that could be the next reefing millionaire. You know what's needed. You've got the schooling to design it. We're a great test market. The writing is on the wall. PLEASE design a freakin' reliable, dependable, accurate, durable heater that we will all send you lots of money for retirement!!!!! :Hydrogen:
Tank heaters are by far, the worst, most aggravating piece of equipment we all MUST buy.
HELP US!!!!!!! :arg:
Not sure I made myself clear. LMK if anyone needs further clarification of my position.
swimmer
- Location
- Brooklyn, NY
Russ, he was referring to the Aquanetics fireplug heaters run on a Ranco. They were the best, but I don't think they are made anymore
.
.- Location
- NY
Russ, he was referring to the Aquanetics fireplug heaters run on a Ranco. They were the best, but I don't think they are made anymore
:redface:
Not going to happen!! :Hydrogen:
Heater is about the cheapest hardware one can buy for their tank, maybe less than 2% of a typical tank's hardware budget. People still select them base on the price, not quality. IMO, the solution is there, poeple just don't want to spend the extra money.
Russ, he was referring to the Aquanetics fireplug heaters run on a Ranco. They were the best, but I don't think they are made anymore
Thay are indeed, I think I still have a few of each in my stock room :lol2:.
- Location
- Brooklyn, NY
Wanna get rid of 1? RD
if you have the money, try an inline heater,
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/9094/cid/2179
for a bit less you can get the industrial hang on in SS,
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/9102/cid/2211
Aquatico has the heaters you guys are looking for, there are many more there.
But will you spend as much on a heater as you would on a chiller :scratchch
When you think about it it's the one piece of equipment that can easily hurt you and kill your tank, so I would think about spending more than the 2% cali mentioned.
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/9094/cid/2179
for a bit less you can get the industrial hang on in SS,
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/9102/cid/2211
Aquatico has the heaters you guys are looking for, there are many more there.
But will you spend as much on a heater as you would on a chiller :scratchch
When you think about it it's the one piece of equipment that can easily hurt you and kill your tank, so I would think about spending more than the 2% cali mentioned.
- Location
- NY
Jon, spectacular link. Thank you. I will be making a change. Not sure how soon, but I'll keep y'all posted. I'm extremely tired of constantly throwing money at these hobbyist, toy heaters and having them fail.
Honestly, the only one that hasn't ever failed on me is my 10 year old Ebo Jager (old style). Unfortunately it's glass and more troublesome, it's now a new company :sad2:
swimmer
Honestly, the only one that hasn't ever failed on me is my 10 year old Ebo Jager (old style). Unfortunately it's glass and more troublesome, it's now a new company :sad2:
swimmer
Due to the reliabality of what we have to choose from I truly believe that the best solution most of us is the use of 2 heaters that are each half of the total wattage you need.
While I've seen this info posted already on MR..it's a good idea to add it here in this thread.
If you need 400w of heating, use 2 - 200W heaters. If one dies your tank shouldn't get too cold before you notice (you are checking your heaters on a daily basis - right? ), and likewise if one gets stuck it usually won't make the temp high enough to fry everything in your tank.
The use of a controller shoud be emphasized!
That said..I use Ebo Jager's and Marineland heaters in all of my FW tanks- for many years now - and have never had one fail. For my SW tanks, I use a controller with the stainless steel heaters (name escapes me..)
While I've seen this info posted already on MR..it's a good idea to add it here in this thread.
If you need 400w of heating, use 2 - 200W heaters. If one dies your tank shouldn't get too cold before you notice (you are checking your heaters on a daily basis - right?
), and likewise if one gets stuck it usually won't make the temp high enough to fry everything in your tank.The use of a controller shoud be emphasized!
That said..I use Ebo Jager's and Marineland heaters in all of my FW tanks- for many years now - and have never had one fail. For my SW tanks, I use a controller with the stainless steel heaters (name escapes me..)
- Location
- NY
Due to the reliabality of what we have to choose from I truly believe that the best solution most of us is the use of 2 heaters that are each half of the total wattage you need.
While I've seen this info posted already on MR..it's a good idea to add it here in this thread.
If you need 400w of heating, use 2 - 200W heaters. If one dies your tank shouldn't get too cold before you notice (you are checking your heaters on a daily basis - right?
The use of a controller shoud be emphasized!
Sound advice Kathy, but what about the heaters that fail with stray voltage. I've been zapped :frown: My issues are not limited to the heater failing in the on or off position.
Stray voltage reaches further than just heaters. Any electrical equipment in the water can produce that tingly sensation....No need to single out heaters.
- Location
- NY
This thread is about heaters though. Start a new thread about powerheads or just plain stray voltage. Then we can discuss it there. My issue is with the heaters, so yes, I am singling them out here
R
- Location
- The Big City
Outside of the cheap heaters that can and do break in the tank, glass type, I've never had a problem with stray voltage from a heater. Then again I only used Ebo Jager heaters.
I have had have a problem with stray voltage from the lights.
I have had have a problem with stray voltage from the lights.
FW tank does not abuse the equipment as much as salt water can. Lots of aquarium equipment(especially electric ones) don't carry over to salt water tanks well.
Best heater choice for an in-sump application would be a titanium based type of heating probe with an independent sensor and on-off relay apparatus. Having two separate heating and chilling systems(not elements, but two sets of sensors turning on two chiller and two heaters) will ensure a fool proof solution for this critical tank perimeter, but the cost of having two independent heating and cooling system maybe too much for most.
IMO, Using two separate "cheap" hobby heaters does not lower the chances of failure, in fact, it will double the rate which the tank will experience a failure. It will be a smaller swing in temperature but it may happen more often. Splitting the heating requirement to a 70%/70% load between two heaters will provide more temperature stability during a failure in a "off" position. All bi-metal type sensor heaters (basically all heaters without an external sensor\control box) suck, they typically get stuck in the on position. The metal switch used is basically a copper spring that bend\curves with changes in the temperature, they will wear out quickly since we tend to keep SW tanks warmer than FW, needing them to turn the heating elements on more often.
The best solution would be to move to some small, remote pacific island and plumb your tank into the sea. :lol2:
Best heater choice for an in-sump application would be a titanium based type of heating probe with an independent sensor and on-off relay apparatus. Having two separate heating and chilling systems(not elements, but two sets of sensors turning on two chiller and two heaters) will ensure a fool proof solution for this critical tank perimeter, but the cost of having two independent heating and cooling system maybe too much for most.
IMO, Using two separate "cheap" hobby heaters does not lower the chances of failure, in fact, it will double the rate which the tank will experience a failure. It will be a smaller swing in temperature but it may happen more often. Splitting the heating requirement to a 70%/70% load between two heaters will provide more temperature stability during a failure in a "off" position. All bi-metal type sensor heaters (basically all heaters without an external sensor\control box) suck, they typically get stuck in the on position. The metal switch used is basically a copper spring that bend\curves with changes in the temperature, they will wear out quickly since we tend to keep SW tanks warmer than FW, needing them to turn the heating elements on more often.
The best solution would be to move to some small, remote pacific island and plumb your tank into the sea. :lol2:
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