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Tangs Rule

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After a big disaster in one of my 150 gallon tanks that killed most of my fish, I did a 100 gallon water change and have let the filtration run without adding any livestock. I tested my water yesterday and noticed the Nitrite level was high. I am perplexed as to why the nitrite level would be high. Is there a way to get rid of nitrite other than water changes? I was planning to start restocking the tank this weekend but certainly do not want to add fish when my water has nitirites.
 

Tangs Rule

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The problem was an electrical problem and I did not have any battery back up on my tank. So the tank was without filtration for some 30 hours. The fish ran out of air. The fish in the tank were mostly bigger fish so the air supply went quickly.

The test kit is relatively new, only about 9 months old. But I was told that my test kit sucked by another member.

What was the disaster? It's very possible your tank went through a cycle. Also the large water change could have shocked the biology filter.

How old is the test kit, that could be a problem too.
 

ming

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nitrites and having low oxygen is 2 different things.

Having high nitrites would come from a cycle (from high ammonia). If there wasn't a cycle, there would be enough bacteria to break down the nitrite fast enough to become nitrates that you wouldn't be able to detect it in a test.

Low oxygen can be solved from having a battery powered air pump during a power outage
 

jhale

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any nitrites in the water are not good. the tank is cycling then.
even a crappy test kit will detect nitrites, so until it reads 0 don't add livestock.
 

Tangs Rule

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Thanks, I realize that. The low oxygen killed my fish. After that I did a water change which caused my high Nitrites.


nitrites and having low oxygen is 2 different things.

Having high nitrites would come from a cycle (from high ammonia). If there wasn't a cycle, there would be enough bacteria to break down the nitrite fast enough to become nitrates that you wouldn't be able to detect it in a test.

Low oxygen can be solved from having a battery powered air pump during a power outage
 

Tangs Rule

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So I should just allow the tank to cycle? How long should that take? When I set up a new tank, I usually let it sit for 4 - 6 weeks after I add the live rock before I add any fish. Will it take that long now?
 

marrone

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It really comes down to a number of things. First because of all the fish dying it may have created a lot of ammonia, more than the tank could have handled, and this resulted in a cycle. You're now seeing the nitrites part of the cycle. Also by doing a large water change you may have shocked the tank, which may have caused the biology filtration to shut down. The system is now trying to caught up.

At this point it's best to just leave the tank alone and let the nitrites go down to zero. Since it's an est. tank it shouldn't take as long as a new tank. What you want to do is make sure the filters are clean, if you're running canister or hang-on filters.
 

Tangs Rule

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I do not have a hang on filter or a canister. I have a wet/dry along with a protein skimmer and a uv sterilizer. I changed all my pads when I did the water change.
 

Wes

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What do you have against wet/dry filters? i use them and have no problems with them.

apparently you do have a problem. Wet/Dry filters belong in the museum of reefkeeping history and not on tanks. Maybe you would not have this nitrite problem if you were not depending on bioballs for your biological filtration.

The good news is it's pretty easy to convert a wet/dry into a sump by removing the bioballs, etc. There is no need for a wet/dry filter in a reef tank. That is what the live rock is for.
 
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ZZROCOOL

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The problem was an electrical problem and I did not have any battery back up on my tank. So the tank was without filtration for some 30 hours. The fish ran out of air. The fish in the tank were mostly bigger fish so the air supply went quickly.

The test kit is relatively new, only about 9 months old. But I was told that my test kit sucked by another member.


9 months is OLD

And WES is right Wet & Dry = Nitrate i
You should just be using a sump, the skimmer should be BIG, and probably a media reactor for phosphates.
What are you keeping what kid of fish did you have etc.

Nitrates don't typically bother most fish, unless extremely high and neither do phosphates though they can be indicators of other problems!
 
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caad3

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BTW: Sorry to hear about your loss.

I totally agree with Michael,

Its time to be patient and let the tank run its course. As far as filtration is concerned, why not swap out your wet/dry for a refuguim setup? In some instances you can modify your existing wet/dry.

As far as backups are concerned. I bought one of those computer backup surge protectors and added one of my powerhead to it. So if I lose power and I'm not home, the batterypack will automatically kick on.


It really comes down to a number of things. First because of all the fish dying it may have created a lot of ammonia, more than the tank could have handled, and this resulted in a cycle. You're now seeing the nitrites part of the cycle. Also by doing a large water change you may have shocked the tank, which may have caused the biology filtration to shut down. The system is now trying to caught up.

At this point it's best to just leave the tank alone and let the nitrites go down to zero. Since it's an est. tank it shouldn't take as long as a new tank. What you want to do is make sure the filters are clean, if you're running canister or hang-on filters.
 

Tangs Rule

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Just to clarify, I do not have a reef tank, the tank is a FOWLR as are all my tanks.

I have always used wet/dry, basically because my LFS recommended them. And this problem did not come about because I use a wet/dry, it came about because of a faulty outlet and me not being around.

Is somebody able to explain how to convert my wet/dry into a refugium or sump? Take out the bio balls, I got that part. What do I replace them with? What else do I need?

I thank you all for these tips, I greatly appreciate them.
 

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