IMO C2C overflows look good when a tank is behind a wall because it takes a lot of space if the tank is up against a wall. are you doing a closed loop or standard returns?
dual 1.5" overflows are more than enough. i am switching over from vortechs to Tunzes.
reef tank w fish. mostly lps and softies but some monti's. im leaning towards something like this drawing. 2 corner islands sloping from low in front to high in the back. the reason is i want to keep stuff like anemones and xenia and zoas on one side and lps on the other. the softies wont cross the sand in my experience
so im closing in on a custom tank- 96 x 24 x 30. what overflow woul dyou recommend for a tank this size?? i wa shoping to get away with corners instead of corners and center overflows.
what do u guys think about solatubes??
i'm assuming the 30" is the height. i have a 48x36x27 (27" height) and it's a pain to reach inside. my arms aren't long enough to reach the bottom(nor the back half) of the tank (comfortably without getting my whole shoulder submerged). you may want to take that into consideration.
i really like the 36" deep dimension design....it gives depth to the whole look(obviously). non of the rocks touches any side nor back glass.
i went with the center overflow since i want to view the tank from 3 sides..... 3 different viewing angles ....like having 3 tanks in one. and of course 3 sided starphire glass.
the only thing i wish i had done was the external overflow to save real estate inside the tank. i don't know if that would work for you since you mentioned of 23" depth.
i remember reading a thread on rc about the totally solartubes-lit tank....but i think it was in florida or california where they have more sun than we do. also what would you do during the winter when there is less sun or what if the snow covers the roof end of the tube?????
well the tank will only be viewed from the front. i wanted external overflows on the sides of the tank but people told me its more susceptable to breaking during th tank bowing.
i got off the phone with the distributor and he said that the dome concentrates light so summer winter doest make much of a difference other then when the sun rises /sets. also i would supplement some actinic and daylight t5's to make up the difference. he also said snow doesnt really affect the dome bc it doesnt build up on the dome ( i must say i dont understand how) he said it sits a foot above the roof and u dont really see that kindof buildup on the roof but if you were worried about that u could extend it off the roof even further
This tank will weigh about 2700lbs. thats like having a 15ppl in your living room. if you would throw a house party, you have nothing to worry about. Just put it perpendicular to the floor beams. you'll be fine. my dad has a buddy who has a glass shop. i can ask him if he makes tanks. Pm me later on tonight
Wishing you all the best on this build!!!!
I know you all stopped talking about the weight & support of this tank a while back, but I am still concerned!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
What if anything did you decide to do about the support? Did you have an engineer come, and take a look?
I only have a 155 gallon on my first floor, and the floor is even less level then before the install of the tank. The tank is on a load bearing wall spanning 4 beams with an adjustable lolicolumn under it, and still it is off level. Now I live with the daily fear that one day that side panel is going to blow off.;(
that's no way to live awi....:Yikes:
the "less level than before the install of the tank", could that be the settling/compression of the wood itself or perhaps the subfloor? is the water level in the tank really lopsided? is it possible to re-shim the tank?