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A

Anonymous

Guest
Suggestions? Comments?

chalice1.jpg


chalice2.jpg


chalice3.jpg


chalice4.jpg


echinata1.jpg


favia1.jpg


lordhowensis1.jpg


symphillya1.jpg


Any input is appreciated, thanks.

Peace,

Chip
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
2nd attempt, this time with manual control over shutter speed and f-stop.

chalice1.jpg


chalice2.jpg


chalice3.jpg


chalice4.jpg


echinata1.jpg


favia1.jpg


millepora1.jpg


pagoda1.jpg


symphyllia1.jpg


ricordia1.jpg


Comments, please...

Peace,

Chip
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Last attempt for now, but I think I'm getting better...comments welcomed.

catalina1.jpg


chalice1.jpg


chalice3.jpg


echinata1.jpg


lordhowensis1.jpg


millepora1.jpg


pagoda1.jpg


Thanks folks.

Peace,

Chip
 

Ben1

Advanced Reefer
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Your later manual attemps are much better. Nice corals! And your right in NY, maybe we could do some trading some day.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
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Ben":2vgc1roz said:
Your later manual attemps are much better. Nice corals! And your right in NY, maybe we could do some trading some day.

Sounds great to me. And thanks much for the compliments...coming from yourself that's quite an honor. :D

Peace,

Chip
 

Bojangles

Advanced Reefer
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3rd set is definately better :D
Wish my macro worked that well...I've got to get a lens heh

Those are some close shots...almost like the camera is in the water hehe
 

zonkers

Experienced Reefer
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Very nice shots :)

This is what I've learned about macros in general, & then trying to apply it to aquarium photography:

Piece 1: higher f stop = smaller aperature = broader field of focus. This is important when shooting a subject that occupies both a foreground & background. This is less important if your subject can be captured more or less "flat on", so to speak. But reducing the aperature has a trade off, which means letting in less light, which brings the next--

Piece 2: Shutter speed. Depending on your subject, you can get away with reducing the aperature & then slow down the shutter. Best for mostly static subjects, but not so good for a coral flowing in a current. Too slow & you could wind up with hot pixels, but this isn't so bad if your camera has a noise reduction mode.

Piece 3: ISO Speed. In a digital camera, this is only an emulation of film speed. Higher ISO rating is called a "fast" film, because the chemicals in the film react faster to the incoming light. On digital cameras, higher ISO tends to lead toward noisier images, though. The more light you're allowing into the camera, the lower an ISO you should use. If you have the aperature closed up pretty small & the shutter set pretty quick, then a higher ISO will make your camera more senstive to the reduced amount of light coming in.

Under my power compact hood, I find myself often shooting on ISO 400, an f stop of 5 to 7 or so, & anywhere between 1/8 to 1/60 shutter speed.

The long & the short of it is experiment like mad, get to know your camera, & get to know which areas & subjects in your tank need a higher or lower f stop, slower or faster shutter, & which ISO speeds are best depending on what lights are on. I usually don't like to use a flash, myself, unless I'm shooting a skittish fish, & in that case I usually just turn up the shutter to about 1/125 or so, & maybe bump the ISO down to 200.

One last bit, is try not to shoot an an angle through the glass (to the left or right, or too high or low to your subject), Try to shoot as straight through as possible. This will give you less distortion. The closer your subject is to the glass, the better!

Hope this helps! :D
 

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